hehe mat, ofcourse we have one for you   , ya may aswell grab it when your down this way again  

RET- i just tried to modify something on my post, and the modify button is not there, all there is is quote, and report

Harko (the motorvator),

        im with stinky-its amazing that you have gotten so far with this car in a matter of a couple of days- i mean look at it, i think youve put everybody into shock :O:O:O

keep up the good work-

Regards
Torque (the Motorvated)

ahh Fast Eddie, thanks for your help

that helps alot, now things dont look so bad  

happy new year everybody!!

thanks chuck-greatly appreciated!!!! can anybody give me a rough idea of how much the entire ball joint set is???

Regards
Torque

alex. the mounts were in their original position for a 6 cylinder in a hr, so if we were planning on re using them, they would have required to have been moved. thanks anyway though  

also another quaetion on the front end

how are new balljoints fitted? im guessing the old rivets need to be ground off then the new ones are supplied with bolts??? (never actually played with a hr front)

any help much appreciated

im quite sure that the wagon tailgate is quite different in shape, but feel free to correct me if im wrong

id have to agree with burnsy, give aussie a ring and see what he says, but id say the 14" would be fine

A wiring diagram from the manual is all you will need, its VERY simple, just break it up into individual circuits instead of looking at it as a whole complicated thing.

exactly what i was thinking when i read it.  i was thinking of getting it enlarged onto say A3 size and then write it out step by step.

Buy a tin of PowerPlus engine enamel grey. PP427.
Have it colour matched in 2 pac and keep the spray pack for touch ups.

thanks for that, will check it out.

I would strongly recommend that you removed the battery and used a current limted 12 volt supply instead, a 12 volt battery charger is ideal. This way you can make mistakes and not fry the wiring.

makes sense

thanks alot for everone who helped out on this topic, this is what its all about  

the dummy block is for setting up the engine mounts,it is usually just a bare block wich is usually the easiest way to do things, you can use the motor you plan on using, but it would be much easier with a dummy block

also moving engine mounts isnt really that bad, but you will need a dummy block to re weld them in their correct position

if the sump is the original one, then it will need to be changed. as for 3 speed on the columb, what box
will you be running

i actually dont think fe trim is that hard to find, but as stinky said, its your car, your decision

does it have any holes in the body for side trim?

if it doesnt, why not abandone the trim all together  

cheers
Torque
FE and FC lover  

[wiring]

i Have  a variety of questions below, any help is greatly appreciated.

wiring
Has anybody attempted to rewire an fe fc according to workshop manual, and if so how did they go with it?

front end
What would be the best thing to paint a front end with?
and what is the best way to remove the hr mounts, as it will have a grey in it.

engine
Has anybody used a type of paint on their grey motor that would be as close to original as possible, and was it enamel, or 2pak.

regards
Torque

harko,

        seems as though you are making awesome progress on the van, gives me motorvation to keep working hard at finishing this ute of ours. it sounds like its going to be one mean looking fc van!!. what motor are you going to drop into this beast? was this the one that was headed for the 427? cant wait for a few update shots, am really keen as to how it will turn out.

anyay dude keep Cruzin :8

all feedback is greatly appreciated

regards
Torque.

ps: the rake is most definately not staying