The radiator sits higher than the catch panel but my custom grill leaves little room at the front and the closer the fans get to the expanded mesh the more visible they will become.
I was going to have a aliminium radiator made to fit what I had but this radiator was about $800 cheaper than that option.
I am tempted to go out now and start hacking up the support panel more.
Has anyone got a chev/kingswood radiator in there FE/FC?
I might take a pic to better show the situation.

Thanks craig, thats spot on what I needed to know. i am going to buy a bit and tap and do it myself, the guy who I was going to get to do it is a bit of a perfectoinist, he is aka the blower guru by the guys at the drags but its not like my fc will be a 7 second car.
I bought a hq radiator of ebay and its not going to fit as easy as I thought if at all, the old radiator used to fit the bottom tank between the rails but this one doesnt, it's a 3 row chev v8 radiator and the inlet and outlet are not far of the 6 cyl radiator but If I am going to fit it I will need to do more modification to the radiator support panel. infact I will have not much of it left but what really sucks is that I already spent heaps of time modifying it to neatly fit a torana radiator and its already painted.
it also leaves less room behind it for the supercharger pulley so I might need to get a new harmonic balancer made that takes a ribbed or gilmour belt wich means getting a water pump and alternator pulley to suit.
has anyone ever fitted a chev/hq radiator to a fc?
good point I guess is I can fit larger fans, I plan to run 10-15 psi boost and the motor is on its last bore so keeping it cool is going to probably be hard.

just think, alot of those old boats would have been towed with grey powered holdens with drum brakes.
A ski boat would be allright with a red and discs but remember they are light cars.
I wouldnt tow my boat with the FC but its a big heavy plywood cabin cruiser, I dont have too be 100% FC free but when I take the boat out as it is powered by a FC holden motor!
I would keep looking till you find a suitable FE-FC for the right price, a classic wood ski boat wouldnt be right behind a maloo or thunder or storm or one of those funny new utes.

if you really get stuck, daileys have a few different colours but no metallic threads in it, instead it has a silvery grey thread through it, I cant remember if they had black.

yep, mine had black & red interior except for the front seat but a previous owner had painted it all black, when I painted it blue & white I changed the door trims to blue & black till the missus sewed up some white ones with blue piping wich will now be replaced.
That blue wagon wasnt in newcastle a few years ago was it?

sorry, just read it again, I think you answered my question.

 Hey Craig, I spoke to Jeff Ramsey Who does alot of the fabrication for supercharged cars and he said he doesnt drill stuff freehand, I cant really see why you couldnt, did it say anything in your fitting instructions about drilling the hole?
I asume you would need a pretty good tap to cut a thread in a crank, did you need a fancy drill bit or tap, the guy at ross engineering sugested a arp/chev bolt but I cant remember the size.

I couldnt believe it, I had everything I wanted to paint preped and ready by 11:30am, it was a dead still nice warm morning and it all seemed to good to be true, I went inside for a bathurst update and a bite to eat, came out, gathered my tins and gun, ran the compresser through a cycle to drain it and then woosh, a sudden change to gail force winds, I had checked the weather earlier and it said 7 knots but I forgot to scroll down to the bit were it said it would change to 33 knots at midday, my boat nearly blew out the driveway into the road, and the tarp freed itself from the ropes holding it to the car and some new sheets of sandpaper found a new address.
I waited for a few hours and thought stuff it, paints going on. My silver parts sprayed up nice with the parklea markets gun but under the car I used a supercheap 2.mm suction feed gun wich is a heep of s%^t, never use a super works gun,, I know the 2.0 is too big for 2k colour but its all I had that I could get uder the car with, the size isnt the problem, this gun has never been able to spray out a consistant flow of paint and uses about 20 times more paint than the $100 parklea markets gun. end result was lots of missed spots and runs just trying to do touch ups and no 2k white left. any way you are supossed to keep it above 20 degrees for 24 hours for it to cure but I just went outside and its raining.
Anyway, although my previuos experiences with por 15 were not very good I have given the por 15 alloy wheel resto kit a go on some of my alloy bits, I used it at night after a quick sand and polish with the included autosol tube, cleaned and treated it with the supplied chemicals, mixed the clear/hardner/solvent and brushed it on, it was very easy to use, I applied it with the supplied brushes and it had a few strokes and slight sags but the next day it was all dead flat but not fully cured, after a couple of days it finally cured and its pretty hard to tell it has a clear coat over the polished alloy and there is no evidence at all of brush marks, hope this holds upto heat and chemicals.
A tip for next time, dont mix too much up as it seems to go a long way and ofcourse being two part you can not return the un used stuff back to the tin, I had to scrap most of what I mixed up.

I think mine was black & white, is that rite ken?

looks like I had a few more things to add to the re do list, the motor has to come back apart so I can take the crank to have the end drilled and threaded, I thought I could do this with the crank in but aparently its to risky to drill freehand.
I also found out the spot putty I have been using is not really compatible with the 2k primer, I cant remember were I put it but I have used a fair bit so it looks like I will be doing a fair bit of rubbing back.
I just looked at my old crank and it has the hole drilled and taped, I thought this was only done to supercharged motors but it must have just been a common modification. It would have been nice if the engine shop said something before, after all they have done work on every supercharged holden six i have seen at eastern creek.

if any one wants a cat I have three free cats, they were born earlier in the year, one has stripes, one is tortoise shell and the other is white with black and grey bits.

I think thats a understaent jimmy, I had a rx7 auto once, I would get blown of at the lights by grandpas in work utes with my foot flat to the floor but once it was going on the motorway it really got up and went, the roadpacer must have had a low diff to be able to move of the lights.
Problem was the motorway always was bumper to bumper traffic so I could never take advantage of the rotary and just found myself paying nearly double the fuel the FC used so I sold it 2 months after buying it, I would imagine japan would have simular traffic.
There used to be a model of this car in a local model car store, I told a mazda/model car fan at work to go and get it about a year ago and they no longer had any, I always wanted it when I was a kid to go with my matchbox holden utes, my micro FE police car and brock commodore pullback car, I think it was made buy a japanese company like tomica but it wasnt tomica.

I dont know if I have one but were are you?

happy birthday, i am having a can for you rite now.

dunno if they ended up making them but maybe you could give the a email
http://www.aussiespeed.com/

werent they assembled by mazda, they were a bit of a flop as the 13B didnt have enough tourque for a real car, if its for sale here its imported from japan, I think they sell here for around $19k-20k,  these were a top of the line luxury mazda in japan wich I am sure was only available in japan, I would imagine a good solid quality holden body would have felt better than what mazda offered at the time.
notice they even have the hj prem steering wheel but with mazda in the middle.

here is a update, over the weekend I ended up getting nothing done, I had to go out for materials on saturday morning, bad timing as craig wilson and Ed Ho both turned up  but Ed left me some bits and instructions that should provide all the info I could need for the door buttons.
Strange thing I noticed is my cats can piss upwards, I dont know if they lay on their back to do it but they actually piss up on the floor under the car wich sits pretty high, I dont know if all cats can do it or if our cat is specail but here is a pic of piss on the floor under the car.


Anyway, Sunday came and I had planned to get some paint on some bits to get this thing closer to rolling but it was a little breezy, the wind kind of kept getting worse and then the carport blew to peices, remains of its bones were banging all over the car, at one stage while hanging on it nearly picked me up but then it just ripped the part of I was holding, now its a pile of ripped tarp and snaped poles.


Well the rest of the day was spent trying to buy a new carport but everywere I went didnt sell them anymore, with bunnings being the only place open after hours of running around I ended up buying a tarp.
On monday we got a new letter from the council, I thought them guys must have died becuase I havent heard from them in ages but they are obviuosly still around. this time it says its a first complaint so I must have had my slate cleaned, yipee.



my wife rang up to ask about it, now I am to scared to use the grinder when it starts getting dark becuase I know the police will be called but this nice old gentleman next door is telling the council that I am grinding after 9pm, I think he needs to re-adjust his clock buy 4 or 5 hours, gotta love sydney.
I am having a break this long weekend, heading of to my mates place in orange, I wont be completely away from this stuff as he also is building a custom FC wagon.

 Although I am using 2k primers I will be painting with acrylic, I still havent buaght a gun yet for acrylic and was thinking of buying a iwata suction feed w-77 2.0mm gun wich is on specail at the moment for $150 wich is nearly half price.
I am pretty sure this is what I used the first time I painted the car, it went the whole way through the job without any problem but these guns have been around forever and I thought maybe now there might be better guns for the same money.
so has any one used a good reliable gun for acrylic that didnt cost heaps, I dont want any stuff ups when I apply the pearl and will be doing it at home with a small compressor,  I think its about 60-80 litres and 3 hp, I cant find any specs on the compressor.

dont go any wider than 185 radials, 175 is probably best as even with 185 mine were coming of on the bends sometimes wich isnt good, when you take a bend fast the rear axle must  move or the sidewall must flex.

its not cheap, you will need two bulk packs. the cheapest ive been able to find is on ebay @ $210 + $25 for 1 bulk pack, if you just want to do the roff and maybe around the speakers, 1 bulk pack is probably enough, car audio guys go crazy with it covering everything with 2 or 3 layers to get the most out of their sound system, as Ed said, it make the car sound very solid and the doors make a thid noise instead of the tinny clunk noise when you shut the doors and gives it a feel of a fancy luxury car wich could be good on long trips, best of all its a hidden modificatoin that doesnt affect the look of the car unless you line the boot area with it wich is common to do, you may need a wagon hoodlining in a van to do it but.
also I learned the hard way, dont leave any of the roof to be done when the car is back to the right way up.

dynamat have a website, not sure of the url but its probably something like http://www.dynamat.com