Ive been everywere, were the hell do you get these, in the hk manual it says to replace these everytime they are removed, 3 of mine are cracked.

@ $710 it still would have been a nice feature on a FE-FC, I knew it wouldnt get away too cheap.

I just went say the same, I am broke this week, i stopped at $410.00, maybe in another ten years one might come up again.

 I dont think acl do a forged holden 6 piston, they do have a race series dished piston that is popular with turbo's and superchargers, you will be looking at well over $1000 for forged pistons, they are mandatory if you want nitrous with your blower, maybe you could look into ceramic coating cast pistons or keep a eye on ebay for second handy's for around $600, problem with ebay is you need to wait for the rite size to come along, if possible dont bore what you dont have too, my block is on its last bore but it would be much better to have some meat there.
There was a guy who set up a fj on straight gas, he ended up not happy with it and went to petrol with a SU, it might be good to track him down and see why, surely the higher octane of lpg must be a advantage.

I would have bid but my rego is due on the ford and I just got a electricity bill over $800 and there is still too much to go on the wagon, I would love to get it in my hands one day if it stays as it is.

I am with harko too, I just had the same problem with my wifes car, I was going to pull the starter out but after the car sat out the front for a week while my wife drove my ford I was sitting on the toilet and came up with a idea to check the earth strap and sure enough it started.

to remove grease and oil stains you use a solvent, then maybe clean over the area with a mild detergent very diluted, even a wet chamois is better than nothing but dont get detergent in your chamois if you want to use it again.
A solvent like white spirits or prepsol.  prepsol dries quicker so I would probably use white spirit, I try not to let chemicals soak into the seems in the pleats as the stitching is getting old, dont use thinners and try not to scrub harsh chemicals in too much.
if you dont have prepsol or white spirit you can use kero but it can be a bit smelly.

I think it might look a little different in the flesh, i am sure those tail lights are only a couple of inches longer than fe ones, maybe they might look slightly bigger being closer to the camera lens.

I was tempted to bid but my wife would kill me, I asked a few questions, the bodywork was done in the late sixties, mechanicals were done later, tail lights are cresta (i should slap myself for asking that one) there isnt much rust but a few pinholes (whatever that means) the car isnt engineered but should pass.

I wouldnt mind it, I think just by changing the front seats for a start would start to change the look of its shape, then a lighter colour with a pearl, flake or candy to bring out the sculptering on the side and make it look a bit bigger, then maybe chop the screen to make it look lower.
Then again it might have some cool history that you could restore it to.

that is 1 cool aussie sports car, nice list of specs there with the austin and zephyr stuff, maybe you could whack this old sucker on it-
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Supercharger_W0QQitemZ190042735421QQihZ009QQcategoryZ43807QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

looks like fun, and a pain, now I know who to call next time I see a car out of state going cheap.

fevanv6 that looks like a cheap way to get a aluminium radaitor but I dont know if it would cool my motor, the radiator I have is a 3 row, the main advantage I would get out of the v6 radiator would be weight as the new radiator seems to weigh double what the old one did, the chev radiator inlets and outlets almost line up with the red six ones and will probably use the same hoses although I dont know yet what water neck I am going to use till I decide were the supercharger belts are going to run. If I ever do this again I will spray the car with epoxy and trial fit everything before any paint goes on, being impatient can waste alot of time.

The front end is kind of going together, yesterday was to hot outside and today was to cold but I have been rebuilding the front end in the kitchen. the neighbours probably think the council has stopped me from working on the car, little do they not what is happening in the house.



I tried going of the specs in the rebuilding a hr front end thread but then when I did the lower control arm bushes I went ti tight, I usually tighten them till the arm stops swinging then back it of a little but this time I wanted everything tourqued, I have a fealing the specs for the lower control arms might be from a hk or something becuase it lock up the arm and then when I backed it of I noticed now sometimes the bush turns in the control arm, I will fix this another day, I get worried as one day on the way home from work my lower control arm came of on the great western highway in peak hour and tuck a front wheel up under the gaurd wich was pretty embarrasing and hard to bring to a stop with wiping out the cars next to me.
The new lower bushes I bought from american auto's were a llittle too small and sloped around in the lower control arm holes so I had to use the old ones, the bushes on the upper pins were the opposite being to big and tight in the holes and one is still not screwed all the way in waiting in the to hard basket till  another day when I am either smarter or stronger.

nice look, its good to see more Aussie models getting produced even if they are in low volumes.

dam, Ive been trying to tap a thread with the tiawanese bush, after shitloads of metal fillings Ive got it through but becuase I had to do it by standing on the ratchet I have gone crooked, I think I might need to find a new upper control arm and some proper bushes instead of the tiawanese crap I paid $120 for, they are not even both the same, one pair of bushes that came with one pin takes a different size socket to the other and the bushes are different colours but they both have the same box and part number.
The bushes I buaght seperately are of no use as they just slop around in the holes, Ive probably spent about $3000 on parts from american autos, they seem alright but I hope its not going to be like this putting the whole car together becuase I havent got many of the receipts, I have been buying the bits over 2 years and wont be happy if all that money was a waste.

here is all the kitchen bench space it took.


I tried the new bushes I bought from rare spares for the lower and they are a loose and sloppy fit in all the control arms, lower and upper.
The ones that come with the upper pins only screw in a 1/4 of a turn in the control arm and then a little bit further if I stand on the ratchet, the old bushes dont screw onto the new pins and the old pins are badly worn but probably have to go back in.
I have bought lots of new parts to put this thing back together with and the new parts are not looking to good so far.

OK, I have all the front end parts all over the kitchen benches, now I cant get the new bushes to screw into the upper control arms and I have to get this done before the missus comes home at about 10pm tonight.

nice thread, i was looking on ebay for a hr manual but but now I found this.
I have run out of space on the computer desk so I might take the front end out to the kitchen bench in front of our only air coditioner, its about a million degrees out side.
I now have the upper ball joints bolted in, pretty exciting to finally actually do up some bolts.

I took two photos and the camera battery when flat, these are photos of 2 of the 5 cars at my mates house, the FC wagon is soon to be registered and the EK is the family car, they are not the best photos becuase I didnt expect the battery to die so quick.
He doesnt have a job so money is tight but he has lots of time to get things done.
He converted to a auto but it doesnt work so I guess there is still some sorting out there.

here are some pics.