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car is now sold

Hi All, In the process of removing doors,panels and front/rear windscreens etc prior to full rubber replacement and hood lining. I reside in the Latrobe Valley in Morwell and have approached AsClear to blast panels, however, they have work coming out of their ears and panels are really not their scene, although they could do them in 6 months time. My understanding is that there is no longer any dipping facility out this way especially with the demise of the electrical powerhouses etc. I have not been able to track down a pickle/acid place thus far, hence my inquiry.

My questions therefore are: What is considered the better procedure blasting or pickle/acid dipping?
My understanding is that blasting can create pock marking of the surface, however, with modern paint products etc that can be rectified?
Can anyone suggest the better or preferred method and a suggested facility in or around the greater Melbourne area?
As always I will be grateful of your assistance in this matter. Thank you Happy Easter

for panels i use mark at color X in hume street huntingdale, very very good. if you want to blast you have to be very careful who you use, there is blast off in heidelberg run by peter hoarder, very good, or chris at yarra valley blast cleaning, he is my pick. if you want the pickle there is now only one that has tanks big enough in vic and thats a place called recoat and they based in wodonga.
with the modern paint systems it a depends on what you get back after blasting. the car must be immediately washed down and coated in some sort of rust prevention barrier- commonly known as  an epoxy coat then repairs can commence after that, that will protect but wont necessarily fill any pock marks whereas the quality of primer you chose will command the finished product prior to paint. so if in a standard paint scheme in say white for example and not to confuse thngs
for example. blast/dip then epoxy to seal, repairs to panels and body, epoxy to protect them, then filler, epoxy to seal the repairs, primer and color, easy huh? ;)

Selling for a friend FE V8 ute built with FC front, small block chev T/H350 9” LSD, HR front end with HQ brakes and stud pattern all round, new tyres Vic rego till march 2023.
ute started as an extremely clean body and was modified and built over 5-6yrs in the 90’s has minimal rust at all if any, i sighted a few bubbles appearing in the LH sill but over wise its very very good. i am unsure of capacity of the small block as i am yet to look at all the engineering paperwork or am yet to check the cast number on block but its early as it has the breather bypass tube at rear. motor runs well but is tired, trans shifts lovely but also has typical T/Hydro leak from dipstick oring and pan gasket(yet to be confirmed) diff is quiet with no noise.
Overall a great ute and IMHO(i do resto with old clappers daily)for the price asking you just cant even do body and paint let alone find a suitable ute, do conversion,engineering etc etc if you want a V8 ute. needs a good detail and clean as hasn’t been driven for a while
Inspection recommended car is located in Warragul Vic
$35k or near offer negotiable within reason more photos available when i get it out of storage









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Selling for a friend FE V8 ute built with FC front, small block chev T/H350 9” LSD, HR front end with HQ brakes and stud pattern all round, new tyres Vic rego till march 2023.
ute started as an extremely clean body and was modified and built over 5-6yrs in the 90’s has minimal rust at all if any, i sighted a few bubbles appearing in the LH sill but over wise its very very good. i am unsure of capacity of the small block as i am yet to look at all the engineering paperwork or am yet to check the cast number on block but its early as it has the breather bypass tube at rear. motor runs well but is tired, trans shifts lovely but also has typical T/Hydro leak from dipstick oring and pan gasket(yet to be confirmed) diff is quiet with no noise.
Overall a great ute and IMHO(i do resto with old clappers daily)for the price asking you just cant even do body and paint let alone find a suitable ute, do conversion engineering etc etc if you want a V8 ute.
Inspection recommended car is located in Warragul Vic
$35k or near offer negotiable within reason more photos available when i get it out of storage


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hey guys, chasing a FE horn ring or even a full steering wheel, anyone have one they willing to sell? thanks

james at classic automotive products in pakenham melbourne makes all the kick panels, firewall insulation, back boards and seat belt reconditioning, truly a magician and a master at his art

my low mile sept 58 build FC also the 8" crack running right between the welsch plugs.. just about the generator and visible just under the intake and exhaust manifolds...pity but now a healthy J motor resided in there and the cracked block is in the shed looking sombre..

hey all, long shot but anyone got any they are willing to sell? thanks

beautiful job on pipes... awesome build, the only thing i would change in this build is i would have fitted a 350 alloy headed TPI out of a corvette.. but nevertheless, magnificent
i for one salute you

pm'd you

keen also please, keep me posted brett

Interesting comment about the rework of the floor pans to make them fit. I recently fitted Taylors floor pans to  the front of my FB and had the same problem with alignment of ribs. The outer edges where the meet the sill were 8 - 10mm short! I fitted Rare Spares rear pans and they dropped right in with no rework apart from trimming the edges. Cheers, Fraze

everything regardless of who makes it needs rework unfortunately.. still better than a flat piece of steel  :P

here is the culprit crack, it is alot longer now


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Might be a little low on temp. Cast is normally pre-heated to 250-500ºC, then stick welded out with high-nickel rod. The component is then wrapped (blankets, sand etc) to allow a slow cool.

If you get really stuck, I've got a bare L-block (from Rob, with thanks) that could get you out of trouble. It would be a lot of mucking around to get it to you, and then install all your internals and ancillaries. The engine number on the block is very faint (hard to read past the "L"), though I could try to develop the number with some sulphuric acid.

Cheers,
Harv

hey gasket scrapper! (jokes) thanks for the offer, i be in touch shortly mate

Yes and I recently offloaded an L motor to a farmer on Yorke Peninsula to go in a fork lift.


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yep i know the feels, a guy here last year had one in a forklift.. it went to scrap before i could get it

Hi mate, I’ve got a couple of “L” blocks that you’re welcome to for a smile as well. Couple of hurdles though - I’m in WA and I’ve got no idea if they’re any good. They were thrown in with my wagon when I got it ‘cos the guy wanted rid of them.



So if you’re desperate and can organise transport, I’m happy to do whatever it takes at this end.

Cheers, John

john...
thank you so much for the offer,  i have a mate in armadale there thats runs a ford yard i deal with and i will call him tomorrow to see if he happy to ship them both, i will be in touch, really really appreciate as the L4 is nearly my number
thanks

. . . seems to be a weak point.  "Found Object" (original L-block) has a crack in the same place.

If you are really attached to the block (say it's the original motor), you could probably get the crack repaired.  Find an old-school engine shop and talk to them.

The guys in the machine shop at work suggest the process would be something like this:
Strip the block down completely, flush all the mud and scale out of the water jackets, pop the block in the oven until it gets to about 120 degrees C, then braze the crack.

BOC Gas'n'Gear sells a high-nickel content arc welding electrode suitable for electric welding cast iron, but they're bloody expensive, and they only sell them in packs (>$500 when I asked).  This is why it'd be good to find an engine shop who already has these electrodes.

Rob

yes i did thing about doing that rob, still undecided... its a real shame because as i said its the original engine that has just clocked over 90k miles and i really dont want to change it, may pull it down and look at options and if i can get another grey to slip in the hole i can still drive the car in the meantime as i get withdrawal symptoms after a while:)

That's tough luck ,where is the crack and do you know what caused it to happen ?...Vern

side of block, just under freeze plugs, looks like a factory crack!! not sure Vern how it happened to be honest

The crack wouldn't be on the left hand side of the crankcase, at the bottom of the water jacket, just aft of the generator?

I have a newly reconditioned EJ motor . . .

Rob

you nailed it rob.... starts from just behind the generator and travels horizontally under the manifolds... damn looks like perfect a factory crack that was put in when the block was cast. if i knew how to put pics up i'd show pity cos its only a 90k mile car

hi all,
my september 1958 build FC(i think from memory thats when ken told me its built)has developed a nasty crack in the block so chasing a grey short or complete engine around that time build if possible, i know its a long shot but can anyone help? located in se melb but happy to organise and pay freight for an engine.
thanks guys