News:

Are you a member of one of the FE-FC Holden Car Clubs of Australia ? If you are, get access to the Club-Member-only area of this discussion board. Send an IM to the board admin, including your real name and club to get access.

Main Menu
Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - 59wagon

#1
Nice work with the cross member Rob.  The pig on a spit is a real bonus for this type of work, hey?

Cheers,

John
#3
Great outcome Rob.  I too find that I spend just as much time, (actually, a lot more time), making tools & stuff to do the job than doing the job itself.  Still satisfying though.
Enjoying your descriptions.

Madge's "You know you're soaking in it" brought back a memory and smile :)




Cheers,

John
#4
Quote from: Dr_Terry on May 29, 2020, 08:02:46 AM
The guys that manufacture the pipe nuts, can only purchase metric bar,

Imperial bar stock is still readily available - it’d be interesting to know why they don’t use it.
Cheers, John


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
#5
Loving this thread Rob, it’s very ejumakashional.

Cheers, John


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
#6
General Technical / Re: Tig or Mig
June 06, 2020, 04:29:54 PM
Hi mate, I use both, and I’m NOT a qualified or very competent welder but been doing a lot of practicing.
In my limited experience, tig is nicer for panel work and quite a bit faster. I find it nicer because there’s hardly any grinding/sanding, if at all, especially if you fusion weld (no filler). As the weld is relatively soft compared to Mig, it’s very easy to hammer and dolly straight after welding. Even with using filler wire, there’s still less grinding needed than Mig and it’s still soft for hammer and dolly work.
I find it faster than Mig because you can do a continuous fusion weld with little distortion, compared to Mig where the common way is to “spot” weld at different locations - the biggest time saver though is in the required grinding, and depending on how aggressive you are, the grinding introduces more heat, so more distortion.
Nothing wrong with Mig though, I love my Mig and use it for most other jobs, but I’m now lucky enough to have a choice. Prior to the tig, I liked using oxy acetylene for panel work, with and without filler rod - it’s nice and quiet and similar to tig in that you can continuous weld, it’s easy to hammer and dolly because it’s also soft, and no angle grinding. With the tig and oxy, I use sanding discs on roloc attachments on an air tool to knock back any highs after hammer and dolly work, followed by a body file.
Cheers, John


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
#7
You gotta be happy with your progress Vern, great work.
Cheers, John


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
#8
Hey Mal, great to see you well and back at it. Your FB and Chev build threads were an inspiration.
Cheers, John


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
#9
Restoration Help / Re: Indicator switch assembly
June 06, 2020, 08:34:36 AM
Hi mate, I can’t remember what my FC switch looked like but I pulled the FB one apart a while ago. It may be different but you might get an idea of how it goes together from the pictures. There were 4 ball bearings that sat in grooves on the metal casting, then the plastic/Bakelite part goes on top, matching the grooves (arrowed in the photo). The bearings allow the switch to slide smoothly from side to side. Six springs then covered by the brass L-shaped bits, followed by the cover with the wires attached. Yes, you need to be an octopus to put it together.

Cheers, John








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
#10
Well done Pastor Robert. 👍

May the grinder and welder be with you.

Cheers, John


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
#11
Members' FEs and FCs / Spotto in Tassy
January 11, 2020, 11:05:46 AM
My son, his girlfriend and two of my daughters are having a ball driving around Tassy right now in a couple of camper vans. My son just sent this through from near the markets in Hobart - it’s got a parking ticket [emoji2955] Nice rig, shame the grey ghosts haven’t got a bit more respect when dishing out fines.



Cheers, John




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
#12
Nice work on the instrument cluster Cam 👍. Can you show us how you put the indicator recesses in ?
Cheers, John


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
#13
Quote from: Greg M on October 27, 2019, 06:52:39 PM
Removed the passenger side sill on the weekend only the revel this ugly mess that I need to clean up as well now. Cheers Greg

Looks like a previous repair under the A pillar, Greg, but the rest of the inner sill looks pretty good in the photo.

Have fun,

John
#14
General Board / Re: Numbers for Ken
October 22, 2019, 08:00:59 PM
Nice looking car Ben.

Enjoy.

Cheers, John
#15
Nice work Greg  :)

Cheers, John
#16
Parts Wanted / Re: FC "L" prefix motor wanted please
September 16, 2019, 06:04:08 PM
Hi Rob, not sure what/where the date code is but here’s what I found. If that’s not what you’re after, let me know where to look.

L486585




L613873



Cheers, John
#17
Parts Wanted / Re: FC "L" prefix motor wanted please
September 16, 2019, 03:35:03 PM
Hi mate, I’ve got a couple of “L” blocks that you’re welcome to for a smile as well. Couple of hurdles though - I’m in WA and I’ve got no idea if they’re any good. They were thrown in with my wagon when I got it ‘cos the guy wanted rid of them.



So if you’re desperate and can organise transport, I’m happy to do whatever it takes at this end.

Cheers, John


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
#18
Parts Wanted / Re: FC wagon
September 10, 2019, 03:52:25 AM
Quote from: parry on September 09, 2019, 04:23:28 PM
Hi fellas & gals I'm looking for the latch for my top tail gate even a photo will help

Thanks Parry

Hi mate, I got your message the other day.  I'll give you a call in a couple of days (currently on night shifts) and either bring my tailgate over to yours or you can come over to mine for a look.

Cheers,

John
#20
Thanks Rob :)