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[Its not the mill.]

I looked at the Fc sedan today and its an older restoration, the paint looks o'k with some orange peel but I'm not sure if you can color sand 2pac.  That's what it needs and a good buff up since it was repaired and painted by the owner.  It has a few minor imperfections that could be easily addressed by someone handy. But for the most part the average joe wouldn't notice it. He's getting someone to address those issues if it doesn't sell soon.

I'm fitting the new king pins and frontend bushes this or next week. He has new kits.  The engine knock turned out to be something non related, no doubt a sticky starter solenoid that isn't fully retracting or something minor like that. Its not the mill.

He's had a few people pick up on the underside seams around his new floorpans he fitted.  It's just a novices mistake where they try to bog over the welded seam but end up slapping stuff on without knocking it down prior to painting it. I'm grinding it out and prettying it up. Also the two top hat cross member sections under the forward pans need to be refitted higher out on the sills and tacked up to the floor. Another novice restorer mistake easily fixed. 

Other than that I think the body is pretty sound and straight and everything else is in good working order.

I'm going to have a look at this FC sedan tomorrow after lunch he's had a few people pass on it because of the floorpans he fitted . He said that he fitted them with an inch overlap. So maybe they do look a lil rough on the underside but it never got picked on over that for its pink slip only the frontend bushes . If the floor overlaps are a bit daggy, i'll put it up on ramps and trim them back myself for him. He also fitted the new under floor cross tubing the subtrame inner legs bolt to. He said he didn't know how to fit them so i'll have a look at that too. It passed alright for rego tho and he said it supports the car o'k with his floorjack.

Another thing i'll look at is the engine knock, who knows where it actually is it could be valves or rods. Another thing with dave is he sets his prices high but expects people these days to try to talk him down . I reckon somewhere between realist between $5500 and $6K would get it.

I understand the bloke who passed on it today did so because the paint had a few stone chlps on it, but that is something unavoidable on a country car.

[That's if it hasn't been sold.]

Obviously not the best pictures ever taken but its looks o'k to me. It was out of town but its in town now. That's if it hasn't been sold.

I was going to go over for a look myself but its been bitterly cold and sleeting for a few days. Theres no point heading out in a car with no heater in that. 

A local bloke I know is selling his FC sedan his name is dave and his mobile number is 0448 05 6515.  I don't have any photo's but he can allways send some to any interested parties. I'll write below what he wrote on his flyer he gave me.

A lot has been done to this old girl with many hours and dollars spent. I can't afford to finish heroff, read on for everything that has been done and what needs doing.

Motor is a 138 with twin carbs and extractors, converted to run unleaded with red motor valves, alloy rocker cover. New engine mounts. New leads, dissy cap, points and plugs. All new oil with no leaks. New fuel pump. Converted to electric wipers. New exhaust. All new brake pipes and hoses, wheel cylinders and master cylinder. New clutch master and slave cylinder and hose. Tinted windows. New 5 spoke 15" mags and tyres.

SAAS steering wheel, new rubbers and felt strips, New locks, new velour headlining. Mirrors both sides, New carpet. $900 spent on rechroming.

Had rust repairs done, replaced 3 floor pans and both rear quarter panels. Fuel tank out of elantra, new rear bushes and shackles in rear suspension.

Car painted in 2pac blue (looks like French blue in photo....factory custom) New exterior handles on outside. Bumpers straightened but powdercoated silver.

He said that the motor has developed a knock, not sure why but he wants $9000 for the sedan but he won't take less or more than that . From what I've seen of it its pretty nice for what it is in the photos. (Tomorrow i'll roll around in my EK taildragger for a first hand look at it.)   

He said it needs the frontend re bushed for rego  but he has $500 worth of bushes and pivot pins to fix it. It also needs a new speedo cable plus the drivers side key lock is sticky but that's just a lube problem I reckon. The fuel gauge has an issue and its not fully charging up either.

From what I know of him he's telling the truth, prior to the engine knock he had 15K on it. So he's dropped the price a lot. But his missus is firm on the price.   If you want to learn more about it call dave on 0448 05 65 15.

Early volksy hey, I have the same ones here I got off an uncle. Scored em for the missuses Fc.  He had a bunch of kombies over the years and these seats of mine he had once fitted to pops early holden. There pretty comfortable and still in great nik. She doesn't want them so there going into my EK sled.

Is the black one alexes car.

Dropped stubs are fine but if your running a very low car then you'll have to be happy running 155 tyres up front and even then mine scrub at times.  What $4K for a frontend are you guys joking, really unless your building a touring car what is the need for them, plus R&P.  The old setups work fine, you guys must love wasting money for no reason. What a pack of gold chainers.

I tapped a thread through my boot lock centre, threaded a bolt in with a lock nut and a arm welded to that to turn it via the release cable. I also used a return spring to reset it,  plus mini gas rams to lift the bootlid up.  The problem with aftermarket gadgetry these days is they stuff up over time, I must have used a dozen new age boot releases before I went back to my tried and proven stock latch assembly. But then this is our driver so the boot is used regularly.

Yet how many people can genuinely say they have the skills to customize a car to this standard of workman ship. Not everyone or my cup of tea but someone loves it. For what it is it's well done.

Kat spoke to the local auto transmission guy and he put us onto a few torana enthusiasts who buy and part out sedans and coupes, it turns out 4cyl Vauxhall 1600 slant motors used a Borg Warner Automatics. The same styled box valiant slant motors used.

Kat used to own a cream and green Fc Wagon with 56 Packard taillights, 4" extended down hood with a frenched in FE grill. A stock grey motor with gear drive, extractors and a HR auto column shift adapted to a EK column running through to a 2sp powerglide.

We are looking to convert kats 4cyl 4speed LJ torana to an automatic.  Does anyone have or know of a 4cyl trimatic gearbox plus a flexplate to suit the Vauxhall 1600 slant 4 cylinder. Any help or leads would be appreciated. Thankyou.

I gave FCCOOL a good benchseat years ago out of my FB wagon , maybe he's still hauling it about.

Neat project, I dig the the look.

[Works every time.]

Having had push button entry for 20yrs on my aussie custom I thought i'd share a few thoughts on the matter. Sometimes I think there a curse until I see my car downtown and notice passerby's give it a second glance. What th? where are the handles...

I've tried getting people to invest in wireless door entry or hidden release buttons rather than install push button doors. Unfortunately johnnie law thinks otherwise sometimes.

What normally happens with shaved door handles is the owner installs door poppers/door go's to pop the door open as the solenoid unlocks it. That on it's own is an effective way to easily get in or out of your smoothed custom.

Then you have the flushfit door button, you push it in and the door unlocks, so then people think?. Shit how do I get the door open. Yeah i'll fit a door-go/ door popper.

It works in theory but in reality your canceling out the effectiveness of the spring device because your pushing your thumb weight against the button.

What happens then is the lock partially unlocks, you then have to hook ya fingers in or around the rear of the door and unlatch it a second go with another push.

The easiest no-brainer door popper is depressing the push button with your thumb and pulling the door out by inserting your remaining fingers in the gap between the door window sill and the glass. Or around ya side trim. Works every time.

Was there a common swap back in the day or in the 70's or 80's that put the handbrake handle assembly on the floor? either between bucket seats or on the right side of the drivers chair.

I'm not about to change the main loop cable, it's near brand new.

I dig a simple no frills custom. Look's neat.