Messages

G'day,

I'm getting a deep vibration right through the car in 3rd gear only.  Usually at around 40mph or so, but slightly backing off or accelerating a little stops it.

The noise doesnt sound like a gear box problem at all, and there are no noises in reverse or 1st and 2nd.

I'll change the uni joints if need be, although i just cant pin point the problem or where it is coming from.

cheers
Dave

G'day,

I have a twin stromberg set up for a red motor on a Holden manifold with linkages that someone wants to buy off me - it came with my car and hasnt been run for a long time as far as i know - there are no air filters.

Does anyone know what price i should put on them?

somewhere between $200 and $250? i really don't know.  The bloke has been looking for a set for a few years and unable to locate any, so i guess he is keen?


I know you can still buy a manifold for about $100 new and strombergs are pretty cheap - why is it that the two set up together are so rare?

Thanks
Dave

G'day all!

I've recently bought an EH wagon with an HR disc brake front end that hasnt been driven much in the last 10 years (only 5000 miles since 94), and as far as i know has been sitting idle for at least 2 years.

I'm keen to have a go a getting the brakes right myself, but know very little about any type of brakes!!

Could anyone give me a plan of how to go about it and where to start...the problems are:

 - they are unassisted (but i am ordering a reco VH40 from melbourne)...
 - the pedal is rock hard with only a few mm movement.
 - the front pads touch the disc quite firmly without the brakes applied
- there is a little bit of corrosion where the pads have been touching for a long time

i havent driven it much (no rego), but the brakes do work to a certain degree, but grab and lockup - you need excessive pressure to brake.

i know i should get the calipers scathed back and get new shoes for the back drums and new friction pads...but in what order and what else?

does this sound like a master cylider problem or corrosion...?

also help on what type of pads work best (bendix etc) would be great.

thank you in advance
Dave

G'day all,

Thanks for your offer peter... i took up Trevor's advice and spoke to hydroboost in melbourne - its only $15 to get sent up a recoed booster so all up $210 so i think i will go for that.

Better than repco trying to sell me a new one for $582!

cheers
Dave

G'day,

I'm looking for a VH40 brake booster to fit to an EH for an HR disc front end.  Repco want $582 for a new one or $250 for a reco of asecond hand one.
i believe its the VH40 that sits on the side of the bay.

I cant get a second hand one in any form anywhere at any wreckers...does anyone have any ideas or have a booster they would like to sell?

would a torana booster work somehow? they seem quite cheap and readily available.

sorry to use it for such a modern square car...

I need it for rego!!!


Thank you
Dave

G'day peter and kiwi...

I have an EH with an HR dront disc set up and need a brake booster for a roadworthy.

ive been told to use a VH40 - the one that sits on the side of the engine bay (is that what you mean by remote?)

repco want $582 for a new one and i cant find a second hand one. will anything else fit or does somone have an old one that they would be willing to sell.

Cheers
Dave

i may be wrong, but i think the stage 5 head has the bolt posts removed - not the stage 3.

on the other hand maybe my head isnt a yella terra, but it is yellow and has double springs and YT stamped on the valves.

Dave

G'day all,

I've recently purchased a set of triple SU carbies - rekitted, on a manifold with new chrome filters and new fuel lines for $350!!!

I'm planning to run them on a fairly warm 179 - yet to have the head put back on it - specs:

 - new rings, bearings, lifters - not yet started

 - 30/70 cam advanced 2 degree
  - straight cut timing gears
 - yella terra stage 3 head
 - twin point dizzy

- the carbies are 1 and 3/4 inch - do you think the engine will be able to use that much fuel, or will i have to get them rejetted? i know 1 and 3/4 inch are really for a 202.

what do you think - i also have a twin stromberg set up - but neeeds a full recondition.

thanks
Dave

thanks fellas...will let you know how it goes!

Dave

G'day,

Does anyone know how to get paint off chrome? Some previous dud owner had tried to put blackouts on some of my chrome work...

Will paint stripper wreck the chrome...or do i just rub hard with some kero...or is there a better way?

Thanks
Dave

thanks sarge,

will be sure to check it out!

Dave

G'day,
 
I'm after X2 style twin strommies and manifold - preferably already set up and not needing reconditioning. To be run on a warm 179.

regards
Dave

G'day,

 I am chasing twin strombergs and manifold to suit a 179 motor.  Preferably in running condition.  They seem hard to find these days!

Thanks
Dave

G'day,

I will stand corrected as i'm no expert, however in terms of heat shielding, i think basically you want the air to be cool and dense when it is enhaled by the carbie or induction system.  This dense air is mixed with the fuel - yet the hotter the combustion chamber the better.  

Norm Beechey's yellow HT monaro had extensive aluminium shields around the filterless webbers that helped scoop cool air from the bonnet scoop.  The intake manifold however, is rarely shielded.

If you imagine squirting a jet of fuel onto a mildy warm hotplate, rather than a real hot one - the combustion will be smaller.  The density of the air needs to be changed before it hits the combustion chamber - as it will already be sealed off by the valve by the time the combustion takes places.

At the end of the day a grey motor is still going to be the slowest thing on the road - i just thought if you go to the trouble of setting up twins, it may as well be done properly.


Could someone explain the physics better? Dr Terry...?

Cheers
Dave

Thanks fellas,

I'm in Brisbane, so its obviously not so bad except for a couple of days here and there in winter.

The bloke at the carby centre claimed that they tested some grey motors on a dyno many decades back and there was far better horsepower with the heater - better vapourisatoin i guess.

You would think an intake manifold is bound to heat up being bolted onto a block though? He is the expert i guess.

Another option - does a two barrel stromberg (like an in the HD X2 or whatever it was called) bolt onto a standard grey motor manifold - or would it be too big for an unworked grey?

Cheers
Dave

Hi,

Would anyone be able to tell me as to whether a twin manifold for a grey motor would need to have a water heating pipe through the base of it.

ive been advised by a carb expert who raced grey motors in the 60's that if it is not heated, the horsepower will be dramatically reduced and it is not worth touching...however, i dont believe that the stardard manifold is heated anyway!?

any help would be great.  American auto pasts stocks some sort of alloy intake manifold for grey motors, but i dont think it is heated.  Is there a way to make a heating duct underneath it?

It would be running extractors, so would have less heat than a normal manifold anyway.

Cheers
Dave

G'day,

I'm keen on them also!!!! but a bit late i guess...

cheers
Dave

G'day,

Could anyone tell me if they have run a twin carb set up on a grey motor - how did it go, what sort of set up?

If strommies are used, what type would you use?  Do you simply set up two grey motor carbies on a twin manifold - and are there problems with the linkages?

Is it all worthwhile...?

thanks
Dave

Hey mark,

Is the manifold still for sale? Do you know anything about setting up a twin system for a grey motor - or how much better it will go?

thanks
Dave

thanks,

replaced radiator...all seems good.

drained, flushed and refilled gearbox, and first gear is still noisy.  We have a spare gearbox (spare everything came with the car...even radiator!) - is there a way of knowing how good a box is before its installed???

Or would anyone know what its worth to drop out the old one and get it overhauled...or just try the other one and hope that it works?

Also, will change the diff oil soon - would it be worth dissasembling the diff centre and cleaning the internals properly?

thanks again
Dave