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I think I stuffed up the link part so here goes again http://motorretro.com.au/  try again

This is there contact details

Factory E2, 22 Powers Rd. Seven Hills
Vaughan 0409 987 564
Georgio 0412 372 105
enquiries@motorretro.com.au

For those in the Sydney area a new business has started for teaching panel repair, run by two former TAFE teachers they have plenty of good gear and experience, I will be giving them a call when I get to that part of my project!![uhttp://motorretro.com.au/rl]

If you disconnect the wire from the switch does the light go out, if not the wire is shorted to ground some where.  If it does go out, try un screwing the switch and then re install it some types can be reset that way.

All red motors have a two piece seal, which means that the crank will have to be removed, your 179 should have a rope type seal, later engines had a neoprene type two piece seal.  As you will be taking the bottom end apart the gasket kits for these usually come with the oil seal!  I haven't had any trouble getting seals or gaskets for them, got my last kit form Rare Spares.

Haven't been on for a while but still doing a few bits and pieces when time permits. flywheel finished with some help from a mate, engine back together with a balance new cam and some other bits and pieces, engine colour is a nod to the traditional inhabitant of the engine bay

Looks good, will the radiator fit with the original mounts with your red motor? 
Cheers Mick

Nice work Pedro, your not too far away from finished by the looks of it.

You sure you didn't just get an FC new car brochure and post the pics!  Great job will have to get into the shed and do something to mine, seeing all the great cars on this site always gives me another spurt!

In some late model cars, the engine management system controls the alternator output (Audi amongst others) so if the battery is dead flat, or you disconnect it, you need to tell it what type of battery it is before it will go.  This requires plugging it in and and communicating with a gadget you probably have, so when in doubt use a memory minder (goes in cig lighter with a 9v battery) or get cunning with jumper leads! And save yourself some drama!  This kind of set up is becoming increasingly more popular with manufacturers as they look to improve economy and emissions,  system voltage effects how long it takes injectors to open, earlier EFI systems monitor voltage for that reason but they have found it better if the ECU controls it.
Goodluck

The gudgeon pin offset is what determines which way to install the piston, so if the pistons you want to fit are offset the other way install them backwards.  Have you got a particular piston in mind for the grey?  The offset is there to reduce piston noise and wear on the thrust side of the cylinder.  Some manufacturers are now offsetting the cylinder centerline to the crank but for different reasons. :)

Anyone checking the toe out on turns? Using steering arms from models with a different wheel base may an effect on toe out on turns, probably more noticeable at low speeds on full lock.

Did a bit of a search, it seems ICA could be Ignition Control Additive (octane booster)
http://www.acronymfinder.com/Ignition-Control-Additive-(former-Shell-gasoline-additive)-(ICA).html
Good stuff eh

Les,
The ambulance burnt it's clutch out trying to get back up the hill, that was up middle harbour, I was there that day on a family picnic (very young at the time).  The girl that was attacked (Hathaway I think) bled to death, my dad and his mate were involved in trying to get the ambulance back up the hill.  We went there in a small boat and and had to wade in the water to go ashore and back to the boat.

We took the girl that was attacked friend home, she wouldn't go in the water so dad and his mate carried her to the boat. Seeing mum and dad this weekend so will ask if he remembers any more.

There are still plenty of them sharks about, my daughter took this pic about 2 years ago near the Iron Cove bridge Rozelle side

The only oil filter in a standard grey is the strainer on the oil pick up in the sump, the kit that you commonly see fitted to a grey only filters some of the oil, it bleeds some off by fitting a t piece at the oil pressure switch and returns it to the sump.  Modern engines run full flow systems where all the oil runs through the filter and then feed to the oil galleries, there is usually a bypass valve where if the filter becomes clogged, oil bypasses the filter and goes into the engine (dirty oil, better than no oil)

So it's not as good as a modern system, but it is an improvement on what it currently has, will certainly help.  You didn't include the link to Ebay, but I think your talking about a NASCO style accessory.
Cheers Mick

I,ve still got one of those type of lights (Vane) where you put the light in series with the HT lead and it is incredably dim, being an older mechanic I,ve found that all that style of light are equally as bad.  If you don't have a dark place to work when checking the ignition timing I wouldn't bother.

Most of the auto shops do those battery powered (2 D cell) inductive pick up timing lights, good value and reliable (don't let the inductive clamp snap shut when you use it or you end up cracking it)

I have a friend that will know if what you asked about your one is possible, so when I have an answer will get back to you.
Cheers Mick

Just a tip, I reverse bleed, instead of trying to make air bubbles go down and out at the slave cylinders or calipers, I put the fluid in through the bleed nipples.  Get a big syringe from the chemist (you might get a funny look when you ask for one!!) fill it with the appropriate fluid fit a hose onto the syringe to join it to the nipple open the nipple and just push it back into the system, gets you a pedal real fast and you don't have to prime the master cylinder first.

Another advantage is you find out fast if the compensating/relief port is blocked (small port in master cylinder) because you can't push the fluid up, when this blocked. (usually because there is no free play on the push rod)  Also you don't use much brake fluid and it becomes a one person job!! Although sometimes to finish off I give it a couple of pumps through the conventional way.

If the compensating/relief port is blocked is blocked you can often bleed it conventionally but you will find that the brakes/clutch may stay applied as fluid cannot return to the master cylinder.

If you give this a try, leave the cap on loose on the master cylinder as you don't want brake fluid squirting over your paint!!  Also if your vehicle has drum brakes all round it will have a residual line pressure valve in the end of the master cylinder, which means you will have to push harder on the syringe to get the fluid up as you have to generate a bit of pressure to open the valve (haven't tried with drum brakes but should still be possible, I've got discs)
Good Luck Mick

Do a voltage drop test, as under bonnet temperatures increase so does resistance. Get a multimeter select volts put one end on battery pos the other on starter solenoid pos, before cranking meter will show nearly battery volts, get someone to crank and look at the meter about 1 volt is acceptable, the higher the voltage-the greater the resistance. Do the same same with the earth cable, from neg terminal to engine and get some one to crank, should be about the same as the positive side.

You also said the voltage at the battery was 18 volts? Sounds a bit odd, 14 ish after shutting the engine down is OK, is your meter OK, or perhaps your charging system is cooking the battery

I had the same problem, I had a few LH spares but none for the RH side, I did this a while a go, but from memory, it only involved drilling out a few rivets and moving the segment piece to another position. The other holes for the different position were already there, so it was just a matter of reassembling and it turned a left one into a right one.

If no else puts up any more details I'll dig mine out of the shed and post some pictures (still not finished the rest of it yet, so not installed)
Goodluck Mick

Went looking for the engineers list on the RMA (former RTA) website as a friend told me its hard to find, he was right, its there but it doesn't come straight up.  I wanted to put the list on here but don't know how to down load a pdf also have the modified vehicle guidelines. Has anyone had much to do with the new system, was talking to some Hot Rodders about the new system and they aren't real happy. 

Could this be the beast!!