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that looks really neat! doesn't look out of place at all and actually looks as though it were designed to be there. i like this idea. i take it the corona slave isn't a "bolt up" mod either? was it just adjustments in the shaft length?

thanks guys, this has helped me make some sense here, i love the corona clutch master idea,will use that for sure as whatever setup i use will have to have a clutch master so smaller will be better to doctor together, as far as which of the options i take im still a little up in the air,the engineer im going through for blue plates (found him today) uses early commodore setups, i think judging by what i see here and on "show us your booster" the boosters with the bracket prior to the booster like the hk should allow enough (with some enginuity) to fit the corona clutch master. i do appreciate the patience with me,i normally try not to post and bother people with what are probably questions that have been asked many times . cheers - jarred

i see, i did wonder about extending the push rod but thought someone in another post had said it wasn't desirable for some reason? hard to say till im knee deep in it which of these two ideas will be easier to make happen. any opinions of difference of performance between your current setup and using the vh40 booster? i only ask because it seems way simpler the vh40,and a local brake guru at better brakes in southport took out his book and was saying that if need be,i think it was a nissan patrol? master cylinder has 2 input filler bottles and output lines to split the system before boosting ,and since i dont need to boost the rear as its still drum (for now) this may be an idea,and it would eliminate the safety issue of having no brakes at all if fluid is lost out of one system (front or back). also it was shaped so similar to the fc that it may bolt up without too much manipulation. but mainly concerned with knowing what the performance difference is between your setups and the vh40 booster. would i (being relatively naive) notice the difference with just a 186?

my god how could i have missed that! my trans is an aussie 4 speed (as yet not fitted)... and you're right i missed the fact that a wall mounted booster means my clutch master will be in the way. i read "show us your booster" and was so interested in other things i never noticed... ok so my options now change to just vh40? or did i see smaller masters on some of those other examples? this pre made booster unit from hoppers.. any ballpark figure on how much?

also the welding is something i hope to learn along the way... however my brothers a panelbeater by trade so im covered. i intend to do the linkage conversion on the m20 as well which looks like a somewhat monumental task. i have been doing my own mechanicals my whole life and done a few paint jobs etc but enjoy the fact that this is building it up myself. i work in towing so have a few friends around that i swap favours with too  ;D thats how i got my HR crossmember converted for free 

hello,im amazed at the enginuity on this,seems so simple (im aware its really not). is anyone now manufacturing these linkages from this forum? can buy a set off of them? just saves a fair amount of time which is limited for me now with a 9 month old boy, not to mention that someone could make a little money for jam by saving others that time. i realise there would be limited numbers required but it'll be really popular as fc's get older and older and the bench seat is more appreciated. plus those of us like myself who are spastics with welders in hand would be willing to pay for them to save the embarrassment  :P

                                                                                                           jarred

hi all,long time reader,first time post writer.

im going through the process of deciding how to boost my brakes,read a lot of options with gemini booster and xa master, or hk booster(little big but still not bad) or the vh40 remote idea,then read different reviews of how the vh40 performs in peoples opinions. also looked now at these on ebay in the states now being sold locally on the gold coast through ebay

[ebay]150723005728[/ebay]

~ HOT ROD UNIVERSAL CHROME BRAKE BOOSTER &MASTER CYLINDER~
PLUS CHROME MASTER CYLINDER  CLIP ON CAP 1/2  -  9/16 PORTS BOTH SIDES RC 3510-1C
7" CHROME SINGLE DIAPHRAM Brake booster PART NO RC 7007-1C

according to what i've read for hours last night this has the required stats of being 7" booster as per gemini, 1" bore and dual ports (i imagine this means dual circuit) . its chrome and brand new at $215 and 15mins from my house so i can return it under warranty if need be. zinc plated version is $170 brand new. is there a reason i cant seem to find anything on here about this option? is it a good option? considering i'd need to buy an xa-b-c master ,gemini booster, get rebuild on it for reliability,then make brackets to fit.... or pay about $295 for rebuilt vh40. this ebay setup will look better,require the same amount of work making brackets (i have no welding skills so it'll be a treat) and fitting and is a brand new unit,unsure on quality so far as i have no prior dealings with this item. however i did nearly go through a house in my old fc 192 ute with vh40 boosted hr disc brake because i cracked a brake line doing diff work and it gave up all its fluid (being a single system) on a down run of a massive hill... fc handbrakes don't help!! neither did the lack of seatbelts... im now looking at the following setup:

fc holden sedan  
hr crossmember
hk stubs, brakes and steering arms
hr rear diff -think 3.36 (with wheel cylinders from disc brake front)
186 red with double chamber weber 32/36(motor work unknown but supposed rebuild-we'll see :-\)
m20

i have the stubs and arms cleaned for paint,diff is unrestored but doing it now, hr member is better than new now and in,motors painted and nearly ready to run but have radiator dramas,engine bays painted but discs and calipers not yet purchased until i have a booster sorted.

any brake guru's help greatly appreciated as i nearly bought the new unit gung ho style last night ,but common sense got the better of me and said ask someone who knows and is not trying to sell me the stuff!

cheers - jarred

this has been so useful to me,have had massive problems trying to get a hold of hr disc brake stub axles at a reasonable price so hq is by next best option,knowing this has prepared me for finding the hk steering arms... thank you kind sir!

hey all,im looking for the illusive HR disc brake stub axles and hubs,set of just axles on ebay going for $300 but i felt it was a bit dear,plus i have a set of HR drums from stub to brake hub that someone may want to swap with cash adjustment. can then be used for the CRS conversion to HQ brakes. im on the gold coast in qld.

hey mate,electrical and wiring is definitely my weakness,im in this process now (bought unfinished project with stuff missing everywhere) but with this address link here-

http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Generator_to_Alternator_Conversion

and a gregory's manual wiring diagram (also tells you all the wires colouring) it should be easy enough. pay specific attention to the terminals names in the regulator
D is for your generator light in your dash (means dynamo-which means generator-which is now your alternator)

B red wires that go to your battery positive terminal,

F for field, i believe fields is what gets eliminated by the fact that you now have a regulated D+ terminal on your alternator. from there i just took note of where each wire went to on the wiring diagram.its all in that link as to what terms mean what. also,my brother (electronics engineer ironically) recommended putting a 20 amp fuse between battery positive terminal and all the wires that were supposed to connect to it,just in case as apparently you can melt the battery terminal if its hooked up wrong. i havent kicked mine over yet as i dont have the fuse,battery is flat and the motor is rebuilt so i have to fit up an oil pressure gauge.

hope this helps