Messages

Thanks mate,

That helps a lot. I have an electronic set up, so will try the NGK's.

Regards,

Grah.

G'day,

Can someone give me a clue as to the best type of spark plugs to use on my modified 186 (192) engine? Basically its more or less  XU1 spec.

Thanks,

Grah.

Stinky,

The answer to the maiden's prayer mate, excellent stuff. looking at the pics I think I'm 180 Deg out - nothing abnormal there. Once I get my 390 back for Xtreme, I'll be almost ready to go.

Thanks for your help.

Grah.

Thanks for the prompt replies.

I think I know that the No 1 cyl in at TDC after the compression stroke as with the head on number one valve gear is slack, and number five is on its comprssion stroke, both valves shut. If I place the rotor arm in way of number 1 cylinder with its piston at TDC won't that be out of sync? - as Number 1 will have fired before TDC - therefore with number 1 at TDC number 5 should be comming up to TDC and the rotor arm should be apporaching number 5??

Is this right or am I off track???

Grah.

G'day guys,

I am the best part way through rebuilding my 186 (192) Red for my FC ute. It been a long road but there is light at the end of the tunnel. Could one of you fine gentlemen give me a mugs guide to timing the distributor. It is an electronic dizzy which I think, only think, I have in the correct place at least to get the engine started but would just like to have some confirmation. Any advise would be greatfully accepted.
I have number 1 cylinder on TDC and the rotor arm set to come up to Number 5 cylinder which is the firing order. Any way as above any advise....... I think I will need a timing light for final adjustments?

Thanks and regards,

Grah.

Dave,

Might be a good idea to talk with Dellow, you find them if you search with Google, they all the gear you will need. The entire converstion kit for my Celica steel case 5 speed came from them. Its attached to a 186 (192) I have heaps of pics if you are interested. Let me know by PM.

Just measured mine from a 186 and they are 9 3/16" if thats any help.

Mark,

I'll get some pics to you via your email address.

Grah.

Mark,

Thanks for the info. I'll have to give a try. The SU's I have have Armour manifolds but I think they are straight. I am only just in the process of building up yhe engine, having fitted a stage 3 cam, pretty lumpy, ballanced bottom end, Yella terra Bathurst 600 head, 308 valve springs, flat top pistons, block bored to 192, block deck machined to give minimal piston height above deck, in fact zero - to get better quench, CR = 10.5 : 1 static, 5 speed celica, HR front end etc etc.

Thanks again. There are lics here if when I took the engine out, somewhere.

Grah.

Very, very nice engine and engine bay. One question, did you have to modify your firewall to get the back carbie to fit. I have an FC ute which I am rebuilding and am contemplating fitting tripples (SU's). would like to hear about any firewall mods??

Grah.

Thanks Mal,

Good advice about the heater core!

I use good old Vasalene, or Vick - smells nicer,lol - on all my battery and earth connections, seems to work, stops the build up of "crud".

Just been to local Repco store and purchased some sealing compound, "Holden Sealing Compound 3835215, 250ml, $35.
Should do the trick.
Thanks for your help.

Is the term stray currents a bit of a misnomer? Should it not be difference in potetial between two or three materials / metals that allows electrochemical action especially when presented with or immersed in an electrolyte (liquid)? Currents measured are usually milli amps and although extremely distructive its the difference in potential across the two materials that causes the problem. Ohms Law V = IR.
I am digging this out of a very old, addled and tiered brain and may have completely lost the plot, engineers altz being a problem. Perhaps a dose of current is the cure??

Thanks Dave,

$45 for 300ml ouch!!!!

I shoot down to Repco and take a look.

Grah.

Guys,

Could someone please recommned a suitable cylinder head bolt sealent for a Holden 6 engine. I presume the sealent has to be or at least is better to be none hardening??
Any info welcome.

Grah.

Mate,

Thanks for your info. I'm not sure of the tpye of Holley I have but it's on a Cain manifold. The only stumbling thing is the fact its got an electrical choke, but i think you can get manual kits for them?

If you can find those numbers it would be of great help.

Thanks again for the info.

Grah.

I know this topic has been posted before, or a similar topic.
I am getting through the process of re building my 186 (192) Holden 6 engine. Current build is Yella Terra Bathurst 6000 head, extractor exhausts, mild cam, electronic ignition, WW strombeg Carb on a standard maifold, Celica steel case 5 speed, etc.

With the engine in bits I am going to fit a lumpy cam, XU1 type grind or above, the Yella Terra head with 308 valve springs, etc etc. I also have a 390 Holley 4 barrel with a Cain manifold.

Which carb set up is the best for a Holden 6 in this state of tune. There appears to be so many opinions on this I would seek expert advice from the forum gurus? No advise on multi carb set ups please.

If the 390 is the go, could someone tell me the approx power valve and jet settings that work reasonably well to get it running before fine tuning?

I await your estimemed response oh gurus.

Yep, auto trans oil will do the job, as will any very light machine oil. Its all about viscosity and eliminating drag, to get the dash pot to open faster.

Depends on the needles and springs you have fitted. For instance for better acceleration we used to fit blue needles and M springs. Lighter spring to lift the dash pot quicker and blue needle has a reduced taper to allow slightly more fuel. Used to use break fluid in the dash pots as it is nice and light, but any very light machine oil will suffice. If you have a good ear you can tune them quite easially, and they stay in tune pretty well, especiall yif they have been overhauled.

Grah.

Dependent upon where and how large the crack is there is a process called "Metalock", which is used for large commercial castings as a means of "stitching" the crack or casting back together. A similar way is to drill the crack along its length with holes of a similar diameter to small copper brazing rod. Thread the brazing rod and tap the drilled holes. Once the rod has been screwed in, peen the end over, make sure that all of the peened ends interlock, drill holes need to be pretty close together and you have a patent repair. Very useful for cast iron manifolds and various other cast iron blocks, either nodular or grey. Like I say it depends on size and accessability of the damage.

Might be useful.

Grah.