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As can often happen on the net I was browsing something else 'GMH' when I found this article and it is a gem!

https://ourport.com.au/fletchers-slip/gmh-mosaic-port-history-to-feature-in-new-harbourside-development/

If one of you techo's can get the image on here it would be great. I'll post it on the FB EK forum as well and if anyone is on another GMH related forum pass it on  ;)

I realise someone else may have already posted this but...

For anyone who hasn't used an Ezy-Out beware!

Even fitters, toolmakers and other handy tradies can easily snap off one having the best skills / machines at their disposal. For that reason they generally avoid using them and prefer to accurately centre the offending stub and drill them out and pick out the remaining thread. Ezy-Out's were designed for extraction of only the easiest jobs and no-one knows whether the stub will co-operate or not.

There are essentially two types. Corkscrew form, or square tang with gripping flutes (my preferred choice if using one). The tang of a file will often work too. You drive it by turning with a shifter as close as possible and because the tang isn't hardened it wont' snap off like an E/O can.

Other methods -

Use a good penetrating spray - INOX make a great product and every workshop should have a can and it's great for un-siezing virtually anything.

Often if a small amount of the bolt is protruding grind a slot in it with a dremel or 1mm cut off disc and remove with a screwdriver. a few good hits with a hammer on top of the stub beforehand can shock the thread and release rust bonding or stretched threads. Before doing the cut leave the job for a while (overnight it better) soaking with penetrating spray. 

If part of the stud or bolt is still sitting proud building the top up with weld to a point where it can be grabbed with vice grips. With the heat involved  in welding, more often than not will see the stub easily screwed out by gripping the weld material.

Centre and drill out with a left handed drill preferably with a drilling block to ensure correct alignment (a drilling block is a section of steel pre-drilled to the drilling diameter in a pedestal drill) . I've had plenty come out doing this. as soon as the drilling starts you often see the stub come turning out Try gmdengineering.com.au for appropriate drills - these guys really know their stuff and will advise on the most suitable drill.

If it's a broken stud in an exhaust flange heat the whole area with oxy to a dull red which will usually release any rust bonds the usually culprit here.

Harv is right. When an E/O snaps off which is all too common you now have a major problem and it is more than likely machine shop time. Or the $$$ services of a spark erosion company.

Good luck

Dave Mac

I am not selling this, nor do I have any affiliation whatsoever with the seller. It just looks too good to pass up for the right buyer, rather than the usual suspect snapping it up and trying to exploit people later on !

Search for item number - 173761623103

Title name - Nasco FC Holden Special LHR Door Trim Card NEW OLD STOCK

Hi John and Clay.

Glad this thread has been seen and hopefully many more will as it is much better value to get your own parts reco-ed directly rather than have middlemen rake you for no reason.

The fellow I spoke to was more than helpful and gave me plenty of time on the phone - I was impressed with his depth of knowledge!
I'll definitely be using them

Cheers all, and God Bless our ANZACS

Dave Mac

I've been meaning to share this info for months now since I spoke to one of the very helpful guys at Power Brakes SA.

https://www.powerbrakes.com.au/brake-component-restorers

Turns out they have the ability to completely rebuild the all alloy VH24 Bendix boosters used in early Holdens up to EH. The diaphragms have been almost unobtainable over the last few years so they have found a replacement that works and can rebuild the whole thing for a bit over $600 (plus freight both ways. Still much, much cheaper than the ebay based alternatives and all you need is a decent booster to send them - no exchange.

Worth sussing out if you are wanting to go all original under the bonnet.

They are very polite and really know their stuff.

Trust this helps someone.

Dave Mac

This is why I like forums so much
Always someone there to lend a hand whereas FB would have 'moved on' before the problem was spotted  8)

Warnerford triple mainfolds have the ports kicked in at either end meaning either minor or zero mods to firewall depending on model.

Grey motor ones are quite hard to find (they are out there) but red motor versions are relatively easyto pick up. Redline now list them and they are very good quallity items

www.redlineauto.com.au/p-181-redline-12-68-manifold-3-x-su-suit-holden-6cyl.aspx

Trust this helps

Dave Mac

That is a great little story Mal

Is there any chance of you getting some photos of you and your ute. Such a rare achievement !!!

Well done, that old ute must mean the world to you and your family

Dave

I'm guessing that old FC went through a decent bushfire  :o
No paint, overall rust and no lead on the turret / B joint ...

Was happening to me too for a while.
Kept persevering and got access.
ASIO might be listening. Leave your phone in the house - Shhh !!!

Please help !!!
I'm after a clamp that were made specifically for the utes FE FC FB EK 2106 utes and 2104 vans Part number, as useless as that may be, is 7410071
I am happy to pay a fair price for one so please get back to me if you can help as I need one for my ute.
Thanks
Dave Mac

Another great story in the making and thanks for sharing it with us!

When you remove the floor mats get afew extra pairs of hands to help. If it is still in half reasonable nick appearance wise it is likely to be very fragile now if not handled with care.

You could try this guy. Art Forrest - 0412400411. A top guy to deal with - I bought a twin breather Kleinig cover from him in Feb and he was also selling a very tidy visor.
Dave Mac

I wonder if Bunnings are considering adding Argon / MIGShield etc to the current line up of oxy and acetylene ?

BOC is a way too expensive !

I'm with you on that - I did the same, and the ommissions went right through !
Still, even though a little bit pricey it would be a good part for a spruce up I guess, although my utes are good for them.

Thanks for posting that info John. I'm happy to say the Kleinig cover has found a new home and I'm over the moon as I have wanted one to match the Kleinig twin SU manifold I am planning on using for ages !
He posted it quickly and it's in great nick, I've vapour blasted the deck already and look forward to polishing the daylights out of the sides this week - Kleinigs polish up a treat !
Art is a great guy to deal with. Old school and true to his word !
Cheers
Dave Mac

Hi Ken

I would have to defer to your knowledge as the 20yr doesn't even show 2104/2106 in the listings. I looked in 2.714 in the 48 to EJ and it was the same - seems like the commercials don't get a mention  ???

Dave

The other one (not the LYN) looks like early SPECO which had the brand cast in sunken font, unlike the later ones with SPECO emblazened in raised font.
I have a set of the early specos that came as a set with long header pipes and two into one muffler.

Hi guys and girls

Normally live on the other side of town - FB/EK - but saw this and thought that for the money some of you may be interested as these wires/lamp sockets are always a bit on the crappy side. I have NO association with the seller.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-GENUINE-OLD-STOCK-REAR-NUMBER-PLATE-SOCKET-ASSEMBLY-FOR-FE-FC-FB-EK-/131736158746?hash=item1eac16421a:g:krsAAOSwezVWznFO

It is for FE FC sedan and wagon - NOT 2106 2104

Dave Mac

G'day Fraze
I am in Sydney
I have a few sets ie inlet and exhaust - I would have to confirm condition but they are free to anyone who can use them as I hate the idea of the scrapman sending them off to China.
Fire off an email to me via here if you are interested.
Dave