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Hey Rob,

I was truely impressed with the current bun joke.
Heard it numerous times but you have put the edge to it.

Cheers and thanks for the input.

MM

 :)
Gents,
I sincerley hope I did not set the dogs barking.
Every site should have a moderator.
but the moderator should be ' moderate' and not so 'impetuous'

Seems I made a remark in reply to the funny comments some of the guys made in reference to currents (the fruit)
Mr. Moderator jumped right in and - oh well, here we are.

Never the less, my aim to help those that appreciate knowledge seems to have been achieved.

Lets all smile and learn a little technology.

From the replies, many of you have benefited and I am very happy.

I am happy to enlighten you guys on any other interesting or troublesome mechanical issues.
(how about LED tail lights)

Cheers for now and keep up the good work.

MM

Hi Grah,
Thanks for the reply.
I am glad your 'old' brain is on the ball.

The term 'Stray Current ' is a real term and a nasty bit of work.

I wish the problem could be linked to dissimilar metals but unfortunately it is more like insulated metals with an electrical system searching out an earth.
The coolant is the vehicle that the current uses in its search to get back to the battery.

Plastic tanks with a radiator core of aluminium or brass makes the core the victim.

Don't forget the heater core. Out of sight is definitely not out of mind. A heater core that fails in a restored car is expensive and the collateral damage is immense.

My best advice is remove your earth leads, don't just look at them, rub the terminals with emery so they sparkle and refit with CRC or a protection medium to inhibate the formation of corrosion. Check the body to engine earth lead as well.

My FC had one on the gearbox mount. Make sure it is in excellent condition.

Fresh water and good quality additives and there you go.

I hope this assists you and has answered your question.

(PS , if any one runs LPG, make sure the upper most point of the converter is installed lower than the top of the radiator and is well earthed)

Cheers

MM

Gents,
Thanks for your replies.
I found this site inadvertantly by doing a web search on instances of Stray Current (SC) and was having a good chuckle when reading the comments and replies to some of the other subjects. I am glad the Oz sence of humour continues.
Its good to be able to have a smile while getting into it.

For some background info, I started life restoring an FX in 1970 and moved onto my first J in 73.
Then it was up hill with an FE,  what a beast. great car to drive.

Anyway, I was in a state of nostalgia when seeing all your good work on your machines I decided to contribute my article and hopefully save you fellas from expensive and unnecessary cooling system costs.

apologies for a perceived cocky remark. not the intent at all.

I am now learning the site rules and hopefully can add some worthwhile info again.

feel free to ask this old auto engineer for techo assistance. I would be glad to put my ten cents worth in.

Keep up the good work.

Cheers
MM

 Guys,
I am Mechanical Mal.
I have read your 'not so informed' comments about this distructive and costly radiator disease 'Stray current'.
You have tickled my funny spot with your coments about fruit.
This is the only funny thing about SC.
I will indulge you by giving you the good info on stray current (SC).
You never know, it may save your radiator.
here goes.
Stray currents in the cooling system
In simple terms stray current is a chemical/electrical process which causes an electrical current to pass through a vehicles cooling system fluid.
It can cause rapid damage to radiators and will indirectly cause problems with other engine components such as water pumps, thermostat housings, etc.
This is brought about when one or more items such as a cooling fan or headlamp develops a problem in its electrical circuitry.
This causes an electrical current to seek out an earth path via the radiator core through the engine coolant.
The most common fault is the body/battery earth lead being loose, dirty or not in place.
That is what it is , now for the test prodecure.
 The procedure employed to test for Stray Current is:
1. Remove the radiator cap and run the engine to operating temperature at idle speed.

2. Switch ON all electrical circuits including items such as a fan, rear demister, head lights, radio, wipers etc.

3. Attach an ANALOGUE multi meter. Set meter to volts. Use as low a scale as you can.

4. Connect the negative lead of the meter to the battery negative post.

5. Dip the positive lead into the coolant without touching the filler neck.

6. Test the coolant â€" if the READING above 0.5V, there is stray current present. 0V is best.

7. If no reading, there is no StrayCurrent was present. to continue if stray current is present;

8. Systematically, the electrical system is tested by turning electrical circuits OFF individually and testing the meter prior to turning off the next circuit.

9. After all circuits were turned off, and stray current is still present. continue.

10. At this stage a temporary earth lead can placed between the battery negative post and the body.

11. Immediately the circuit should test free of stray current.

12. Remove the temporary earth lead and stray current will be noted noted in the cooling system.

13. The battery to body earth cable is to be inspected.

14. If necessary, make up a new lead out of 6mm cable and secure it from the battery neg post to the body or radiator itself. Make sure you remove paint from the body to ensure a good contact.

15. Retest and there should be no SC.

Remember, SC is instant death to aluminium radiators and brass alike. Aluminium will corrode 253 times faser than brass.
Note, brass does not transmit heat as well as Aluminium.
never mix coolant types.
always flush with good clean water prior to adding good quality additives.

Best of luck.
MM