FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

Would anyone have a Bosch Voltage regulator suitable for a late 59 FC Sedan. Had the old girl in at the Auto Electricians today. He tells me the generator is working fine but the regulator is no longer operational. I had purchased a spare at a swap meet however it wasnt working either. If you have a spare Id love to hear from you.

While on the subject why did the FC come out with Lucas and Bosch systems? was it early FC's with Lucas and later ones with Bosch?

Regards Rod.

Rod,

Yes, I've got one in good working condition.  But I'm suspicious about the non-functional diagnosis of your other two.  How would you like to send them to me and I'll do my best to get them working?  Usually it only takes cleaning dirty contacts and some adjustment.

But you need to confirm that your wiring's ok:

If you have a multimeter, skip this paragraph.  Disconnect the wire from the DF terminal of the voltage regulator and gently touch it to the B+ terminal.  If the DF wire is good, there should be a fair bit of sparking as you brush the DF wire against the B+ terminal.  If nothing happens, you probably have an open-circuit DF wire, and the trouble is not with the regulator.  Reconnect the DF wire to the regulator if it tests good.
Next, take your fan belt off, disconnect the battery, and take the cover off the voltage regulator.  Reconnect the battery, and close the contacts on the cutout relay by hand.  The cutout relay is the one nearest the B+ terminal on the regulator, with a bent wire stop on top.  Push down on the spring steel to close the contacts.  When you do, the generator should spin, in the same direction as the engine turns over.  If the generator doesn't spin, disconnect all three wires from the regulator and connect them together.  (Best to disconnect battery, bridge the three wires together, then reconnect battery)  If the generator now spins, the problem's in the regulator.  If the generator doesn't spin, the problem's in the D+ wire.

Or, if you have a multimeter - Measure the voltage at the B+ terminal of the regulator.  It should be battery voltage (+12.6 V).  Disconnect the DF wire from the regulator and measure the resistance from DF wire to ground.  It should be about 4-6 ohms.  Disconnect the D+ wire from the regulator and measure the resistance from the D+ wire to ground.  It should be effectively a short-circuit.

Finally, measure the resistance between the regulator's D+ and DF terminals.  It should be a short-circuit.  A resistance any higher than a couple of ohms indicates dirty voltage regulator contacts, which will stop your generator from charging.

Let me know how you go.

Rob

Great advise from Rob as usual.

Cheers
John

Rod,

I'm re-posting, because I can't find the "edit post" button, and what I posted is correct for Lucas, not Bosch.  Revisions in red.

Yes, I've got one in good working condition.  But I'm suspicious about the non-functional diagnosis of your other two.  How would you like to send them to me and I'll do my best to get them working?  Usually it only takes cleaning dirty contacts and some adjustment.

But you need to confirm that your wiring's ok:

If you have a multimeter, skip this paragraph.  Disconnect the wire from the DF terminal of the voltage regulator and connect it to ground.  Start the engine, and let it idle.  If the generator light stays on, you probably have an open-circuit DF wire, and the trouble is not with the regulator.  Reconnect the DF wire to the regulator if the generator light dims or goes out at idle.
Next, take your fan belt off, disconnect the battery, and take the cover off the voltage regulator.  Reconnect the battery, and close the contacts on the cutout relay by hand.  The cutout relay is the one nearest the B+ terminal on the regulator, with a bent wire stop on top.  Push down on the spring steel to close the contacts.  When you do, the generator should spin, in the same direction as the engine turns over.  If the generator doesn't spin, disconnect the DF and D+ wires from the regulator.  Connect the DF wire to ground, and connect the D+ and B+ wires together.  If the generator now spins, the problem's in the regulator.  If the generator doesn't spin, the problem's in the D+ wire.

Or, if you have a multimeter - Measure the voltage at the B+ terminal of the regulator.  It should be battery voltage (+12.6 V).  Disconnect the DF wire from the regulator and measure the resistance from DF wire to the DF terminal on the generator.  It should be  effectively zero ohms.  Disconnect the D+ wire from the regulator and measure the resistance from the D+ wire to ground.  It should be effectively a short-circuit.

Finally, measure the resistance between the regulator's DF terminal and ground, with the DF wire disconnected.  It should be a short-circuit.  A resistance any higher than a couple of ohms indicates dirty voltage or currentregulator contacts, which will stop your generator from charging.

Let me know how you go.

Rob

Thanks Rob, much appreciated. My spare he says is not operational at all. I am happy to send it to you and if you can make it work its yours. Please PM me with your address and I'll send it to you. The one that was on the car he did a temp fix on, says it got very very hot at some time has done something to it (bent something but he isn't that happy with it) and its now charging, he did say its a temp fix and that I should try and get a working one ASAP. If you have an operational one I'm happy to purchase that and also send you the one I pull off the car. All I'm trying to do is get the old girl more reliable for the Nats  :)

Regards Rod.

Rod,

I've just pm'd you.

Rob

Rod,

I've got your regulator working.  The current regulator contacts were pitted and oxidised (long-term electrical system overload, I think).  It was a bit of a job cleaning them up.  And most of the other settings were out of whack too.

One of the mounting grommets is missing.  But more important: the rubber gasket's missing.  The can has a high-water mark in it where water got in.  It'd be best to seal the can to the base with gasket sealant so water can't get in.

I'm up for a challenge.  When you get this one back, why don't you send me your other?

Rob

Rob.....AWESOME! are the rubber grommets and rubber sealing gaskets still available? I can't believe you got it working! I cant thank you enough. Will it be reliable enough to put in as my permanent? The current one I think is working but the auto elec recons it wont be reliable.

Regards Rod.

If anyone is looking for one I have 6 or so in a box.. no idea if they are any good

I also have some in a box i got from an old guy that was going to throw them out not sure if they are any good, I'm in WA

Regards
Neil