FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

  Was going to keep this quiet, but where is the fun in that. Started pulling it apart on March 2nd.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/BB.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/A321000111.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/A321000119.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3140002.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3140020.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3140043.jpg)

March 9th...

Took a week to pull apart, I hate rusted bolts!!! and to put on the rotisserie.

Let the fun begin  ;D

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3140046.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3140053.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3140058.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3140066.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3210001.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3210006.jpg)

March 16th...

Having a ball now!

The floor pan has been welded in, and some of the structure done... Half chassis needs to be fabricated and welded in.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3290004.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3290006.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3210033.jpg)

Seats fit!!

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3210037.jpg)

March 23rd

Floor nearly done, rails done. Firewall needs some... Massaging to get the donk to fit.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3290007.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3210048.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3290016.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3290014.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3290025.jpg)

Front needs to be tied in.

March 30th

Holidays nearly over.

Subframe mounts done, chassis for the floor complete.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4050007.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4050006.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4100002.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4100005-1.jpg)

365 days to go!!

Damn, that is some interesting fabrication going on under there, not bad for the first months work.
Sure glad you chose not to keep it a secret. Looking forward to the next 365 days and watching the build.
Regards
Alex

360days to go...

Group support.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4130001-1.jpg)

Steering column in as well as the pedal assembly. The clutch has been adjusted to fit, and now will be inside the car.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4170004.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4190010.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4190007.jpg)

350 days to go...

Some rust to be removed... will be a VN fuel tank, extended to 120litres.

Hoops chosen, tubs started... will be a few weeks until I get back to it unfortunately.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4250012.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4250013.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4250014.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4270021.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4250020.jpg)

So 332 days to go, plenty of work to be done, lots of fun to be had.

Wow, you have done well to get that far in just over 30 days, well done. I can't wait to see the finished project.

It looks like you have a fair bit of room in that shed!

Keep us posted on the progress. I assume that you will be at Orange and that is why you are trying to have it finished in the 365 days. Is this correct?

Yep, you have it in one.

The shed is a mates that I taught to fly... Actually he has an affiliation with Bathurst. Graham Jonsson, raced with his brother for 3 years in a VL commodore 89' 90' and 91' I think. So may be appropriate to get this one to Orange.

Jason,

 I look forward to seeing your ute in Orange, should be awesome,

Keith

 ???

Very good build Jason. Keep the photos and story coming. Will be very interesting when it's done.

See you in Orange
Rusty

Excellent job  :o :o - looks like you have some welding skills which are needed for this project.  :o

Will you be using the complete wiring loom from the donor? 

Where are you located in Queensland?   ???   I am doing a similar project at Nundah.

regards oldgmh. 

My god you dont muck around :o

Thanks guys,

Yes I will be using the wiring harness and everything else that I can out of the VT.

I am in Cairns, the car is in Yungaburra up on the Tablelands.

Cheers
Jason.

Nice work. Keep the photos coming.

Cheers
John ;D

You have been a very busy boy in such a short space of time!

Keep posting updates and don't forget to include the odd shot of the support group!   

Kathi

Another couple of the support... He was with me the whole month.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3140031.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3210025.jpg)

 ;D

He looks pretty tired there - he can hardly keep his little eyes open. ;) You're not the only one who obviously worked very hard in that month!  ;D 

Love your work Jason!

Cheers

Ed

Awesome work Jason,lot's of skills on show here. :o

great to see a big task  :o i've been panel beater painter for near 30 years thats a BIG job great to see it in the flesh keep it up good show :o :o

Now to make these fit where they should... 18x10's

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4270021.jpg)

This is the plan...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4250019.jpg)

im getting excited all ready jason still got your tailgate but me mate isnt driving anymore
regards fatboy

Some toying around....

Just an 18' rim turned around for the effect. The rotisserie makes it real easy to adjust the ride height ;D

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5100003.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5100002.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5100001.jpg)

Just as well Jason as u have put the wheel on backwards  :'(

Hey Brad,

Can you take a photo of the Colt hinges you used on the hard cover you made for me please.

When I get the others made I promise to put them on the correct way.  ;D

Cheers
Jason.

Cool! Reversed rims making a comeback.

Had an old beddy van with a short diff and reversed rims on the rear.. looked fat.

Cheers

Ed

At this rate Jase you won't be needing my ute for the Nationals ;D ;D

Great bit of engineering work there Jason, absolutely fascinating, keep the pics coming.
                                                                         Pedro

Sp apparently you start with a flat piece of 3mm sheet steel, and cut some patterns out... How it was done in the book.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5180003.jpg)

The first one i tried to cut with an oxy template machine.. (not sure what it is called) but the steel was too thin and warped the end result.
So got a piece of 50 x 50 to help brace it while I welded the top and bottom on.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5180004.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5180005.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5180006.jpg)

With both sides done. time to make more holes in the car.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5190009.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5190011.jpg)

Then a trial fitment before welding in the new rail

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5190013.jpg)

After the completion of one side...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5190015.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5190019.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5190016.jpg)

Should be able to get some decent hoops in here.

Then a present for me when I arrived home after 2 days on the car... I like presents!!

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5190022.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5190021.jpg)

Hopefully some more shots on Friday or Saturday night.

Jason.

Bit more progress...

Both rails done.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5210005.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5210004.jpg)

Engine waiting patiently.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5220001.jpg)

Tomorrow... fuel tank.

That is an awesome looking front end. I noticed that there is a decal with V6 Conversions on it, who supplied the front end?

Keith

Hey Keith,

You noticed correctly... Its a V6conversions one. Not much change out of 5K but hopefully will be worth it. It uses all of the Vt commodore stuff that I have, so will save $1000 on a brake conversion, and will be able to put ABS on it. It is a rear mounted power rack and pinion, with coil overs that are fully adjustable.

Pat also stated that he has run 18x8's on the front, but I will be using 17x7's

Chers
Jason.

341 Days...

The shed dog... One for Kathi.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5230005.jpg)

Fuel tank today, 80 litre VN tank.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5230010.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5230009.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5230007.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5230008.jpg)

The tank has been cut open and 13cm added for 40 more litres, and the VT fuel pump and surge tank incorporated into the tank while open.

 

Top job Jason,that tank sure won't fall out in a hurry... :o

Thanks,

The main reason for the size of the steel was that I wanted to lower it by 40mm from the rails and this was the simplest way. And this was lying around the shed already bent up.  ;D

 

I don't believe it.  What do you do in your tea break? ... Build a couple of houses?  Damn good work.
Mack ;D

Jason,
        Are the new chassis rails at the rear going to run straight through to the back or are you going to radius it around back onto the original rail? I know you need to take into consideration the bumper bar mounting position and behind the back wheel but it would be stronger and neater if it was staight through or at least radiused into an S shaped, not just welded to the side of the rail.
   This is just a comment/ suggestion, not a critisism, i think you are doing a brilliant job and wish you all the best for the rest of the job and are really looking forward to seeing the finished product in the flesh. You have obviously put plenty of planning into this project, going by how much work you are getting done, or maybe you started this a while ago and have been holding out on us all. ;D ;D ;D
  Anyway good luck with the rest of it and look forward to seeing you and Sonja very soon,
                                                 Cheers Scott

Hey Scott,

I will take all sort of information on board as its the only way to learn how to do this sort of thing.

From the photos on there you cant really see what i have done with regard to the rear of the rails, as you have suggested with the S shape this is what I have tried to achieve. When i cut out the original rail I welded a piece of 50 x 3mm down the rail to give me a bit ore thikness to weld to and to make a staggered transition from 1.6 to 3mm. Then when i welded the new piece to it I made plug welds on the inside of the rail before completing the outside. All of these suggestions came from the engineer that I am using as it is him that has to approve it.
To give it a little more strength, only as a consequence... The fuel tank support that i have made is 40 x 40 x 3mm steel and this will be fully welded in and picks up the rear of the new chassis rails that are on there now.
What still needs to be done is another crossmember just in front of the fuel tank support to take the coil over shocks that will be incorporated onto the diff. 

Hopefully this reads as i have it in my head, and mate feel free to send any suggestions you like... your trophy winner sits in the shed proudly  ;D

And to answer your other question... the official start date on the blue ute was March 2nd... I did get the donor car before I had the ute.. probably by a couple of months. Just this time I have a little more of an idea on the bits that I need. They say the second one is easier...  8)

I really want to get to the Orange Nats to see everyone again... Will see what happens if i get a new job that I am after.

Cheers
Jason.

I got a radiator core from a mate at a radiator shop, said that the tanks on commodores fail more than the cores leaving a perfectly good core for free for m to play with.
50 x 50 x 3 mm alloy tube cut up to make the tanks and some round for the piping.
Ready to send for welding when I can find the alloy cap attachment.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5290004.jpg)

Stubs and bearings prepared for the front end.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5290003.jpg)

Have a look at A & K engineering I bought one for my aluminium radiator from them ebay number  170296352895 that will get you to one of there necks and then just take a look at there other items as they have a couple of different alloy necks hope this helps ......FC427.....

Thanks for that, bought one straight up.  ;D ;D

286 days to go... Been at it most of the weekend.

Bought a VS wiper motor and made a bracket to suit.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5300005.jpg)

Fitted the instrument cluster, and tidied up behind the steering column.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5300002.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5300004.jpg)

One for Kathi... Dead dog... got a bit much for him today.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5310007.jpg)

Then today decided to fill a hole I had... This was left over 3mm sheet, a bit of an overkill but it is what I had laying around.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5310011.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5310009.jpg)

Tuesday hopefully the tubs back in.

You certainly don't muck around Jason!  It's great to see your progress.  Seems like there's no stopping you at the moment as you're obviously extremely fired up and motivated to get it done - maybe it's really all to do with your "supervisor".  ;) :D

Kathi   

Think we might change you name to Tank Man  with the 3mm plate  :o :o......Are you going to suicide the doors  ??? ??? ???......FC427.......

Have been having fun doing the build, I guess thats why the progress and with my job I get days off during the week so can get to it... It's a shame that the car is an hour away so on the trusty bike I go... 

No going to do suicide doors, not my thing I guess... The 3mm plate was because the steel mob would only sell me a 1200 x 2400 sheet for the rails, so was not going to waste it.  ;D

Jason,

You are coming ahead in leaps and bounds, seems like you are on a mission! I too have the same deadline but I am not progressing as well as you. Great to see it taking shape. Well done. :) :)

Keith

Great work Jason, it looks like you have deleted the rear "parcel shelf" will your seat be going further back for taller drivers or are there other obstacles? Just asking because at 6'4" I find the utes a little squeezy.

Spot on Stinky,

Parcel shelf is gone, and it was mainly to do with the seats not my height (5'8"). In the Van the seats foul on the bottom part of the rear wall not giving enough room. But now they have plenty of room and if you were ever going to fit into a ute this would be the one..  ;D

Keith,

Even though I have only just recently started, I have been planning it for a while and all of the lessons learnt on the van have help me enormously in the build of the ute. The best thing that I ever did was when Chuck recommended a build book from the States called "Sick Fish" and this has been an excellent tool for me in doing the job, its a great read. I just go one day at a time and try to achieve something by the end of the day.

Cheers
Jason.

Nice Work Jas,

This ride needs bags!  ;D

Cheers

Ed

Hello Jason,
       Great biuld, could you please give me some info on the book you are referring to so as I can obtain a copy ie.author, publisher, supplier

                                    Any help appreciated
                                            Frank

G'day Frank,

try www.buildbookusa.com

They have all of them here, not cheap I think I got 2 for $25 US plus postage.

Cheers
Jason.

Thanks Jason, looks interesting

Hi Jason

I knew it would not be long before you build another FE / FC, I am currently out of town with limited internet access so this has been my first chance for a while to feed my addiction to the forum. A big thanks to you for making my day and satisfying my addiction with on big FE/FC Fix.

Well done and keep up the great work.

Cheers Jim

Decided to have a look at a birds nest...

Now have to squeeze this into the rear of the ute as I am trying to keep the engine bay clean, well as clean as i can.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P6130001.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P6130002.jpg)

Going to have a go at shortening the diff on Monday, so more shots to come.

Only got one day at the Diff. Graham Jonsson helped me with his Lathe and we cut down the tubes on this to make sure that the ends mated straight again.

The amazing thing was how far out the tubes were... Nearly 4mm of of alignment. Has anyone else come across this before??

Anyway the brackets were removed and the tubes cut by 120mm each side.

Axles will be taken to an engineer to do the same.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P6150001.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P6150002.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P6150003.jpg)

Cant get back there until Friday week now :( but hopefully will get it all welded up again ready to fir to the car.

Jason.

I have not  seen them joined as you intend to do for a long time [butt joint on the axle tube ]the usual these day's is to cut the flange of the axle side clean it up in the lathe, put a tapper on it so it is ready weld it back on... a solid bar is then passed through the center that fits snugly in to the carrier bearings and has cones to slide on the bar at the ends in to the bearing cones  to align  it ...while it is tacked up then the alignment bar is removed before fully welding ... after welding it is reinserted to check it is still aligned  quiet often it is then put in a gig and pressed to correct any misalignment from welding [the gig used is often an old crankshaft straiting gig] I am not saying that your method will not be successful just have not seen it done that way for a Long time good luck with it ......FC427.......

The problem that I had for cutting it off at he flange was that I am planning on using that abs and this would have meant aligning the sensors again... Wasn't sure on how accurate i could do this and though that for the application would be easier to cut and join. I am planning to make a sleeve on the lathe to insert and help align the 2 back together again. Hope it all works... the worst that can happen is i have to get another one i guess.  ;D

I do appreciate the advise.

Cheers
Jason.

hey i just wanted to congratulate you on your build so far
its like watching a episode of overhaul your moving so fast
cant wait to see move pics
keep up the good work

adam

Got another day at it today,

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P6240012.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P6240014.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P6240015.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P6240017.jpg)

So got one side of the tubs done, hopefully get the other done on Monday if work doesn't get in the way.

Geez that brings back memorys when i did the tub job on my van many moons ago looking godd
regards fatboy

Another day, another tub done...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0201.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0204.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0205.jpg)

Next, weld the diff back together and put the brackets on for the 4 link suspension... this will be fun.  ;D

Looking great Jason. (http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/style_emoticons/default/rockernana.gif)

Can't wait to see the next update.

Progress is still going strong there Jason.  Good to see.  :)

Well it was time to make some brackets fro the 4 link suspension... after filling some holes in the floor.

Here goes..
This part of the car was now structurally very solid, so made a sort of Mudflap I guess you would call it.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7020005.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7020004.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7030010.jpg)

These are the brackets for the links.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7020002.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7020006.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7020007.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7030012.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7040004.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7040003.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7040001.jpg)

Lots of snap from the last few days... Hopefully A diff hanging on these brackets by Tuesday.

Looking good Jason,

I can't wait for the next update, you are helping to keep me motivated and for that I thank you. ;)

Keith

Great work Jason, very inspiring.
If you intend to register the ute, at what "hold points" do you have your engineer inspect the work?

regards
Weddo

Thanks guys,

Weddo, my engineers comes up every 5 weeks from Townsville, and ha seen  my car twice so far... nearly all of the fabrication is done now, so I will expect 1 more final inspection for certification.

Got some more done today...
Finished the welding the diff back together, and managed to get the mounting points welded in for the 4 link suspension.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7060003.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7060002.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7060007.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7060008.jpg)

Tomorrow I hope to finish the top trailing arms...

Cheers
Jason.

Jason you're a bloody legend, keep up the good work, I'd also like to say thanks for the inspiration if i hadn't seen what you'd done with your ute there's no way i would have attempted the floor swap on my wagon.
       Pedro

Lots of trick looking bracketry and lovely engineering going on Jas.


Cheers

Ed

All of the ideas came from the book that I described earlier, but all of their brackets looks shiny... not a little rusty like mine.

A little more humid up here i guess.  ::)

But there is a sandblaster just outside for me to use and I think I am going to use POR15 on it. So should look a treat when I get to do it.
The fuel tank should also be ready at the end of next week and is looking great from what i saw yesterday.
The Radiator came back... total cost $252 so not bad for a custom radiator!

But there is a long way to go to Orange so i have to keep at it, and hope the funds keep up...

Jason.

Nice work Jason.Where are the rear coil springs going to sit as I'm guessing they are not in the original location on the trailing arm as they will foul on the chassis rail you have fabricated.Are they coil overs mounted on the the back of the diff?  ???.I might have missed this somewhere. 8)

I am going to fit coil overs from the lower trailing arms to close to where the original shockers were mounted on the angle.
I have to make up brackets to go from the arms yet to accept the coil overs... but not sure the width of the bracket to make yet, until I get them. I dont know if the eyelets are of different sizes yet or not so an at present researching it.

Where i plan to locate them may still yet foul on the upper trailing arm and I wont know until i see one.

The other option that I have is to mount them on the front or the back of the diff in a more upright position. as this is the first time i have done this i don't have the answers I need.. Yet! But thats half the fun, I have been getting very excited to get the diff done to this stage  ;D
To actually get it finished in the next couple of week for me will be a sense of accomplishment.

Cheers
Jason.

Keep at it jason, you have done more in 2 weeks than I have in 2 months lol.

Dean.

Inspiration thats all i can say :P

I look forward to the updates Jason and hopefully get a few more ideas with my car haha

Thanks for all of your kind and positive responses... they haven't gone unnoticed  ;D

Jason.

I love the engineering going into this, completely over my head but I love it, how do you design then create this stuff?

Hey Stinky,

I got the tip from Chuck a little while ago to get a "Build Book" a couple of years ago on Joe Rogans 1970 CUDA called the Sick Fish.

I was an awesome read and i have got the ideas on the fabrication from there...

www.buildbooksusa.com

I dont have the machinary that they do in the book ie laser cutters, rollers and formers, tig welder... I have my Lincoln welder and an angle grinder, some G clamps and a vice that I use...
I draw templates out of old political posters, as they cut easily... Its great carving up a politicians head too!!!LOL

Then just have a go... If it doesn't fit or work, you can only have another go at it to make it fit or work.

I have no experience really as this is only the second car that I have modified... ever. But I have never taken kindly people telling me that I cant do something, and I guess thats the drive I use to get this thing done sometimes.

This rear end has been REALLY scary for me as I want to get it right... Its the first tim I have tried to shorten a diff, cut and replace rail, tubs etc, so am pretty excited at seeing it come together. I guess I have just tried to show everyone hear in a detailed way how I am doing this and if I can do it then anyone can.

Cheers
Jason.

jason, youre being too modest there mate. have been keeping a daily intrest in the build up of your beast mate, very impressive, goes to show how important forward planning is. my recent rebuild was a 6 week engine replant that eventually took 2 years, ( to do this i had to modify/change this, and so on...) and no where to the standard that you have achieved. well done

cheers brett

Well had a bit more fun today...

Finished the diff off welding the Top trailing arms mounts on, sway bar mounts, and then the breather into it as well.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7150004.jpg)

Then it was time to make a bracket for the panhard rod. I got a bent one from the wreckers and cut out the bend. Am going to make an adjustable one instead... tomorrow hopefully.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7150007.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7150001.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7150003.jpg)

Just need to clean up the edges, make it a little more rounded and then weld it in tomorrow as well.  ;D

Well the Panhard bracket was cleaned up and welded in...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7160001.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7160003.jpg)

Then after turning up the adjustable training arm, welded them up and fitted.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7160005.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7160006.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7170010.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7170011.jpg)

Coil overs next... After I find some money.

Impressive work my friend you have definatly got some skill..

fevanv6,
Been following the build. Lots of thought into this. Is going to look great. Just letting you know that when i had the commodore rear end fitted to my vehicle, the engineer would not let me fit any trailing arms that were after market or made without having them strength tested. I know all engineers are different but just thought i would let you know just in case you need to do this. I ended up using original arms and therefore no engineering problems.
regards brett

Hey Brett,

Thanks for the heads up, but the engineer that I am using was the instigator in all of this... I am only following what he wants so that it is easy to get engineered. I have been enjoying doing this bit of the build as I haven't done any of this before and is coming together surprisingly well.
Like I said previously you can only have a go.

Cheers
JB.

266 to go...   :o :o 8)

i love whatching quik good builds, you keep saying first time but surely looking at yor work you must have some training or work in metal working industry, doubt yor a brickie and it's the first time you've picked up a welder ;)

G'day Jason, looking good, great job on the diff setup, i can't quite see in the pics and i know i'm using a different floor but did you have to rebate the floor slightly where the inner subframe rails sit, I'm going to have to either rebate the floor or shorten the rails and put the mounting spot higher by the look of it as they are stopping the floor going low enough.
                                Pedro

Hey Pedro,

If you have a look at page 4 you will see that after I had moved the rails in I then made the brackets for the upper and lower trailing arms. They go onto the new rails. The upper trailing arm does go into the floor and is the reason for the shape of the bracket. Grab the build book that I have spoken about, as this has been a bit of a bible for me. But if I can help in any way just let me know.

Cheers
Jason.

Sorry Jason i meant on the front floor, the sub frame rails hit either side of the hump.
                                       Pedro

Ah, i remember that bit... LOL

I had to use a bit of creativity to get it to fit... It was called a mallet and a blow torch.

I had help getting the subframe on and then off numerous times and kept adjusting the clearance bit at a time until i could get the subframe on without any of the legs fouling on the body of the car.

Where the Y frames would normally join to the car I cut these brackets away from the pieces that I had cut off and bolted them onto the subframe. From here I bolted the subframe to the car using the upper mounts and the outside mounts on the Y frame.

I then fabricated, or replicated the underbody crossmember so that the inner mounts could be welded to the car.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3290027.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3290028.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P3290029.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4100006.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4100005.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P4100003.jpg)

Hi Jase, i watch with great interest and congratulate you on your effort so far. I know from past experience that you must be going home covered in grinding dust, feeling itchy from grinding dust and welding burns. And you also must be snorting out some great black boogers ;D. Most people dont realise how much crap you get covered in when attempting such a major project. (not to mention how many grinding discs you must be going through).
Well done again and keep up the great work, you are deffinately teaching alot of us a thing or two on how much work goes into these things.
         Chears Scott

Thanks Scotty,

You are very correct with the black nuggets... And the dust and the burns and the itching, plus the 2 trips to the emergency department to remove a piece of crap from my eyes that got under the safety goggles.

I hadn't thought about how many wheels that I had gone through, but I have used 85 thin cut off wheels, about 9 grinding wheels and 3 of the sanding discs so far on a 4" grinder.

3 bottles of gas, 4 x 5kg welding rolls of .9mm wire.
I pair of overalls... they are stuffed from burns and dust...

1 tyre on the bike from all of the trips up the hill... Hated doing that... ;D ;D ;D The one hours ride up the Gillies highway is awesome this time of year!.

So thats a rough total so far.

Costs so far

$5500 Donor car
$6000 Ute
$4975 Front end
$260 Radiator
$450 Fuel tank
$250 Sand blasting and painting of the new sub frame
 
Plus all of the other drill bits, cutting wheels etc.

There would be more that I have forgotten about...
So wheels approx $3500
Diff Centre about $1000
Stereo $4000
Paint and panel ???? $8000 maybe
Chrome $3000

Gets a little expensive when you add it all up.

Maybe i will just say it all quick.. LOL

Cheers
Jason.

I think the secret is to keep the receipts, but not to tally them up ;D

Awesome job, Jase. Watching this with great interest.

cheers
RET

Jason

You make me want to run out and by a bottle of the finest mig gas  :)

Sensational work, wish you lived a little closer as it would be great to dive in and lend a hand, will be following with keen interest…

Chuck

Hey Chuck,

What are you like at bogging and sanding??? LOL

Would fly you up myself!!!

The panels are not too straight, I need to replace the sills and have to learn a bit more on panel work... Or its going to cost me a fortune!!

Would love to get the car nearly as straight as your ute Chuck!

Cheers
JB.

Thanks for the pics Jason, made things a lot clearer, unfortunately too clear, the VL floor isn't just narrower in overall width the tunnel is also narrower which puts the inner subframe rails under the floor not on the side of the tunnel, looks like it's a lump in the floor or shorten the rails and make a new mounting point, hopefully i'll get some more time soon and will be able to juggle things around and see which way to go, if anybody else out there is thinking of this swap you'd be better off with a later floor, from what i've been told the VN/VP floor is also the same as the VL and the body was just ballooned around it.
           Pedro

 :D :D :D, now that definately sounds familiar :D :D
                                   Pedro

Pedro,

The other way you may be able to go is to cut the Y frame inner leg and make the mounting point under the floor. Re welding it to the way you need it to locate. Not sure if it will work without seeing it.

Cheers
Jason.

Just went and had a quick grovel under the car, the floor still needs to come down about 50mm and can't be changed as the inner y frame leg(what i meant when i said sub frame) is hitting right where the gearbox support cross member is, at the moment i think the best way will be to cut a piece out of the leg, shorten it and make a new mounting point on the chassis rail, I'm itching to get out there and have a play but i've still got too much other crap i have to do first.
                                             Pedro

I'm in the same Boat Pedro. I wish i could get out to my FC more often but i have heaps of stuff to do to keep the Handbrake happy before i get a chance to work on the FC.
                                                     cheers Scott

hi jas your build is a pleasure to watch. im doing a similar build myself but with an ek ute. ill be getting a commadore donar car soon and wish i had your idea of putting the floor in but ive already put pans in from rares . keep up the good work. stubbie

Hey Stubbie,

The benefits of the floor are a few...
 - No seat rails to make to fit the bucket seats
 - Handbrake mechanism already to fit... no mods
 - Airbag sensor in place
 - centre console started... Need to make up to the dash
 - Gear box mount done ready to bolt in.
 - Tailshaft safety loop... Where the old 2 piece shaft mounted to the floor I now will make a safety loop.

So maybe something else to think about. The VT floor fitted a treat.  ;D

Cheers
Jason.

:D :D :D, I've heard rumour that there is a rare breed of women out there somewhere that don't mind their husbands going out to the shed and in fact actually encourage them to do so so they can have some free time :o :o :D :D.
                Pedro

 
Geez I can top that!  ::) I know that there's an even rarer breed that actually get out in the shed too!  ;D

 Sounds like a great Model they produced :o I will take two or even three of this model please  ;D ;D.....I can't complain Jan let's me do pretty much what I like 99% of the time ........FC427......

Geez I can top that!   I know that there's an even rarer breed that actually get out in the shed too! 

Now we cant have that, then they will know what we get up to in the shed and all the secrets will be gone. ;D

 :D :D :D, definately can't have that happening. ;)

Don't you have to be a muslim to do that ;D ;D

 
and Kathi we all know you are your fathers other son so that doesn't count :P :P :D :D

I can't complain myself really though, Mez has been pretty tolerant of my bike and car addictions over the years.
          Pedro

After a week of having to work... How rude!!! Managed to get a day at it today.

Someone once told me that the fuel cap on the van was ugly so today the utes filler had to go.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7250005.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7250007.jpg)

Then managed to get the Panhard Rod done late in the afternoon... Will need to be tidied up on Tuesday

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7250010.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7250012.jpg)

Also during the day got to start on the crossmember that will hold the coil over shocks. Doesn't look like much at the moment.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7250013.jpg)

 So with 260 days to go to the Nationals... I have 5 weeks left before I start a new job. Then I wont be able to get to the car until Christmas.  :'(

So my target date may be looking like a dead duck... will see how I go...

Jason.

5 weeks, that's about the build time for a car on American Hot-Rod, you've had a head start so it should be a breeze to finish with time to spare  ::)  :P

Thats because they have 30 people on it and an unlimited budget  :P

i wish i could panel beat and be able to spray... I am crap at it!

Oh and Stinky apparently you know someone that does upholstery... LOL

May be able to get ideas other than grey!  ::)  ;D

Jason I'm only an amatuer painter myself and I'm still learning, if you take your time and pick up a few tips there's no reason you can't do a good a job, check out Alfios black beauty on page five he gives some excellent advice, there are also other sites out there that provide help just type it into google, after seeing the quality of the work you've done so far i can't see you having too much trouble.
                                                                            Pedro

as a matter of fact ;) cripes that "grey" comment is going to haunt me to the grave  ::)

Aha But what a fine comment it was :o ;D .........FC427......

sure was!
and I'm not arguing with it either  ;)

257 days to go!!!

Bit more done today... Spring hangers done... Floor finished.
Dummied up some pipe to replicate the length of the springs and get the angles correct.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7280002.jpg)

Then used one of these to make this.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7280004.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7280003.jpg)

To go in here...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7280005.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7280007.jpg)

So thats nearly it for the floor pan...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7280009.jpg)

Next finish rust spots, clearance for the coil over springs, finish subframe... so the photos wont be that interesting...

Thats a nice press ;D

Is that yours ???

Cheers
John

Nope, not mine...

Can bend 20mm high tensile steel... its mainly used for making truck trailers.

Jas,

Just curious.. If you're using coil overs, then why use the commo bottom trailing arms?  was this just to keep the engineer happy?

fantastic work, glad you got rid of the fuel filler.

Cheers

Ed

Hey Ed,

No the bottom trailing arms evolved that way as I am going to use them as the base for the coil overs... As in make a bracket where the old spring was located.

The engineer was part of the process and was his idea... I just ran with the idea and am doing it the way he suggested to get it passed easier.

Cheers
JB

Hey Jase, now that you have got rid of the fuel filler i have an idea that i have used on my ute. Why not put it in behind the tail light. I hinged the tail light and put the Gas filler in behind it. Now i know that it is easier to fit a gas filler but i am sure a man of your ability  could come up with something. If i get a chance i will take a photo and put it up.
                                                Cheers Scott

So got a few more days in yesterday and today...

First i had to give the coil over shocks some clearance so to stop fouling on the floor.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7310012.jpg)

Then decided to have a look at the exhaust system... Needed a little clearance as well..
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7300006.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7300005.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7300003.jpg)

But wasn't satisfied there and decided to get a a little radical, as I have no where to exit the exhaust out of the back of the car... Did this
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7310001.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7310003.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7310004.jpg)

Needed a bit of room to make it work.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7310005.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7310006.jpg)

Then a present arrived... Pedro, this may help your problem... Its a modified VN tank.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7310007.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7310008.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7310010.jpg)

The fuel filler neck is in the wrong spot so had to take it back, oh and Scotty i love your idea, but I have done this instead...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/A32100016.jpg)

It will be welded in instead of on a hinge and painted the same as the car so should not stand out too much...

Cheers
Jason.

Well another couple of days at it and was pretty annoyed at what i found towards the en of yesterday...

Started by a couple of patches..
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P7300008.jpg)

Then started to find crap like this in the car, filled with fibreglass and bog!!! Very pissed as the guy who sold it to me has lied!

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0218.jpg)

So the sills have been welded over the old ones, creating 2 joins that were rusting... end result, sills gone

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0208.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0209.jpg)

Couple more Gems!
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0215.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0219.jpg)

I will step down from my box now vented..

JB.

It's amazing what some butchers think is an acceptable technique for fixing rust, I picked my wagon over the other one i had because it seemed so straight and rust free whereas the other one had obvious rust, once i got it sandblasted it turned out to be the worst one of the two as the guy had done similar patches to yours >:(.
                   Pedro

Well back to the good stuff...

Make some brackets for the bump stops..

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0221.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0222.jpg)

Then needed some more clearance for the bottom trailing arm as they fouled the chassis rails.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0225.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0226.jpg)

Then for the 2 compartments in the back... 1 is for the sub woofer and the other is for the battery, and relay boxes.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0228.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0229.jpg)

Next getting it home, I have been evicted from the shed as the owner needs the room, so have to assemble it to bring it all home on a trailer. This will be fun.

Cheers
Jason.

yeah jas it piss,s you off with the rust and the fact it was hidden. like me its a good thing you come across it

You've been a busy boy again Jason. 

Definitely not nice to find surprises like that.  I must admit, structurally our van is not too bad but we're not game to touch the panels yet - the panel and paint might not be the best to look at but we're certainly not ready to find a heap of underlying surprises yet. 

I'm sure you'll be able to continue the progress once it's home - especially if your supervisor is there!  ;) :D

Kathi

I don't understand why you need a subwoofer in the back, when you sit in the front separate to the subwoofer when you listen to the stereo.
 It still baffles me why big kickass stereos are essential in cars when they cant be used to there potential.(Totally Bemused) ??? ???

I agree, must be the same reason some people put methanol guzzling blown big blocks in "street registered" cars.
A normal subwoofer makes the music that much better though, I have a Jaycar 8' subwoofer tucked in behind the rear seat of my dual cab ute and the difference is incredible. Even the 10" sub in the boot of my FE makes a difference.

Hey Scotty, it seem s my descriptions are coming across the wrong way LOL... What I am doing is putting the subwoofer in behind the passenger rear seat, its going to be a 10" woofer with the box hidden below the floor line in the back or the ute tray.

I am not about the competition noise that some go for but for clarity of sound, and yes i do like the bass component.

At this stage i am planning on using a rockford fosgate "punch" subwoofer, hooked up to a kenwood double din stereo with mp3 input and navigation system all in one that will also be able to accept the bluetooth for the phone. The head unit is just a flat panel and will be placed where the chrome speaker grill sits on a billet aluminium piece mad the same shape at the speaker grill.  For the mid range speakers I am planning on getting some Focal's 2 way or possibly 3 way system, but not sure where to place them in the cabin yet.

The ute is going to become my everyday driver as I am trying to sell the van, so i want it to be as good as I can make it to last for the next 10+ years.

So mate hopefully I have cleared up your bemusement...  ;D ;D and i hope you are not too disappointed in me.

Cheers
Jason.

I'm never disappointed in you Jason  ;) ;). It all sounds just fine to me and sounds like you've done your research. When i've built my cars the stereo has never been planned, it's always been about the engineering and building it right once. A stereo could always be put in later. Oh how times have changed  ;D ;D

Let me just congratulate you in your efforts so far, you have taken building modified holdens to a new level and anyone considering doing something similar should look at this before spending any money and make a decision whether they have 1, got enough money and time and skill, and 2, whether they have the balls to have a go at building something correctly to todays standards.
  Your build makes my FE look obsolete and dated, which is fine because thats how we did it in those days (remember i started mine in 1989.).
  Let this build be a lesson to us all that the standards are high and the price is high but the satisfaction is immense. If you get the opportunity to buy a car like this in the future be prepared to have a substantial price tag attatched because, as Jason is showing us, these things aren't cheap to build.
  Good luck Jason and any comments i make will be purely constructive if possible, sometimes tongue in cheek  ;), but never to offend.
                                      Cheers Scott

Jas,

Use splits for your front so you can get your sound stage spot on.. you will also get much better clarity than 2 or 3 ways, your mids will also be able to drive much harder.

Mould the tweeters into your A pillars replacing the metal mould with a fibreglass one.. would be sweet and discreet.

keep your mids down low, and stealth them behind some sheer material matching your trim, or build them out on your kick panels... build outs don't need to be gaudy.

loving the build.

Cheers

Ed

Lucky some of us know what you're talking about Ed  ;D...(I used to install car audio for about 10 years,shit of a job) Ed's advice should be followed word for word as he is spot on. ;) Jason,I feel your pain regards the rust.The difference for me was that it was obvious in ya face rust and was even more obvious when it came back from the sand blaster.I'm sure that although it's a set back you will have no trouble cleaning it up and then it will become just a memory.This ute is becoming a work of art,keep up the good work.Cheers Jamie.

I nevered bothered to check it myself, but there is supposed to be plenty of room between the metal in the kick panel area and the front guard. A welded up headlight bucket might make for a good speaker enclosure/recess.

jason just finished my stereo in my sedan. Put 6 + 9 on rear shelf (soundstream) split type with cross overs. Also 6.5 (soundstream)  splits in front doors with cross overs. They are better than when I visited you. Will now have to see how many DB I produce. Keep up the great work.

Thanks guys for your comments,

Ed,
I did mean to write 2 way or 3 way splits, and am planning using Focals... Only 3 ways if i am feeling rich, they are about $1800 so most likely the 2 way.

Stinky,
I love your idea about the headlight buckets, and looked at something in the van when I did it, but never thought of the buckets, will see if the dimensions are right and then have a go... Thanks

Scotty,
You still have a wicked beast in your shed, and bloody quick too!!! Has a tendency to go round in circles though ::) ::)  ;D ;D

Hows the V6 going Fred??   

Here are a few more snaps, I had to remove the car from the shed tha I was using as the owner required the space back so the last couple f days have been a tad hectic.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8130011.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8130012.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8130018.jpg)

This greeted me this morning... Only a couple of metres long.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8140019.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8140024.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8140026.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8140020.jpg)

Its going to only get a little more work until after Christmas now as my new job starts in 3 weeks.
Work always gets in the way of fun.

Jason.

Trailer trash ;D I'll give you $500 for the lot but you can keep the snake:D

I'll bet it's good to finally have it back rolling on it's wheels Jason, looks like you have just about completed all the hard work

That donk looks like a ball tearer, can you get away with that up there?

Cheers, Gary

Thanks for the offer Zulu  :P

The engine is a straight 5 litre out of the VT clubsport, about the 185kw range. All that I want to do is put a decent Cam in it to make it sound nice. You can go to about 306ci with the power to weight formula, but the engineer said that 308 will be acceptable.

Jason.

Awesome job Jason, makes me feel like taking to the wifes Senator with the oxy  :D.

Dean.

It's a shame you are going to have to slow down Jason you have been an inspiration to us all, as I said earlier there's no way I would have tackled that floor unless i had seen what you have achieved first, you must be getting close to being finished with the fabrication side of things and on to the body anyway ???, did you check out Alfio's post, I know he had a few problems with some people here but his panel beating was impecable and he gave some damn good advice.


I agre Zulu that engine looks huge(or it's a little trailer), doesn't look like it would even fit under the bonnet from that pic.
                   Pedro

Jason,

Outstanding effort! you have achieved so much in such a short time. I hope that the relocation doesn't set you back too much

Keith

Now i have to make an engine hoist... the forklift wouldn't fit on a trailer, and i have to get it off the trailer as it is parked outside.

I think i have the steel for the frame... just need to locate a block and tackle.

Then I have to get the engine to fit. the engine mounts from V6 conversions are for a standard fit... I have moved the engine further back to keep the thermo fans as per the van. then there is the problem of the sump. I have to cut and weld it so that the largest part of the sump is located under the pulley. painful I am guessing, but can be done.

See how it goes.

Jason.

Hi Jason,

Would be great to catch up and meet you and have a look at your ute before you put it on the back burner when you start the new job.    Especially as its now back down the hill.  If your keen give me a call on 0408 854 547 and we'll organise a time to meet.

Cheers

Jason
Edmonton

For all of those wiring experts out there...

After moving all of the relay and battery etc to here, I now have to extend about 200 wires to the front of the car... The cutting and splicing i have no problem with... The problems I have are whats the best way to go about it, do I get another harness and cut it up connecting the ends to where they are meant to be and then join them to the current harness?? Do I try and label every cable the cut it up and splice them all back together, keeping in mind that one wire crossed up will cause me nightmares. Do I have a bridging cables to the front so that all of the wiring can be removed for sandblasting at a later date?

I remember when i did the van it took me a week solid to shorten the long lot of relays... this could take awhile. LOL

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8200001.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8200002.jpg)

Stinky,

Your headlight bucket idea is a gem!!!

The bucket allows for 6 inch speakers... maybe 6 1/2... thats what the focal speaker i want to use are.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8200003.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8200004.jpg)

Next problem,

I need to move the sump forward by about 100mm to get it back in the middle of the front crossmember, as i have the engine rearward to use the thermofans that I have. Just like the van.

Question is do they make something like this before i cut up the sump and modify it?

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8200005.jpg)

Basically I need the largest part of the sump under the pulley.

Cheers
Jason.

 8) Cool, probably not my idea originally, but I'll lay claim to it if no-one else does  :P
The speaker should produce better sound too, being in it's own enclosure.

Hey Jason,

While not an expert, from my last wiring experience, I found having 2 harnesses beneficial.  You can extend and make circuits using the correct coloured wiring.  Nothing worse than trying to trouble shoot and the wires change colour mid section.  Label, cut, re-join… you know you want to.

I think Falcons have good firewall plugs which you can clip in/out, handy for fast removal for sandblasting.

Does this harness have the BCM (Body Control Module)? Is that the black box pictured?

Cheers
Ed

PS don’t know of any factory sumps as you describe.

I'd vote for this plan


Doing it this way would mean colour coding is standard so into the future any wiring faults can be traced using the donor vehicles circuit diagram, plus as you say you'll be able to remove and install the harness if needed.

The other issue is what will be the best way to join them?

Ideally you would use quality multi-pin connectors, but this may prove a bit bulky. If you mechanically join, solder, then heatshrink you'll get less bulk but soldering wires in areas subject to vibration could lead to breakage where the solder ends and the wires starts unless they are supported very securely.

Separate crimp connectors are another choice but will add bulk anyway so I reckon the multi pin method would be better.

Maybe something like this is the answer:

(http://wolfems.cart.net.au/images/products/00000895_2256528.jpg)

I was thinking of the multi pin idea, but as you said the bulk is the problem and all of the wires have to pass through the A pillar.

The way I joined them before was to finger join the two ends and then wrap copper around the 2 before soldering and then heat shrink... I have had no problems since with the van. I think I will get the second harness, but i still don't think that the length will be long enough... will have to see I guess.
 ;D Its all fun isn't it!

Thanks
JB

This is how I was taught to mechanically join wires during my apprenticeship. Soldering in the centre section only is recommended.
(http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14027/img/14027_122_2.jpg)

This means that there is still support for the join outside the soldered area, making it more resiliant against vibration.

Heatshrink over the top and you've got a strong, neat, and low profile join.

Here's an equation you can use.

200 wires + 200 mechanical joins + 200 solder joins + 200 bits of heatshrink <> fun  ;D

Jason,
Just a thought. Coudn't you use an early sump that has the hump at the rear? e.g most Holden red motors had these. That is what i am using in my vehicle.
If you can use this you need to get the pickup and dipstick also.
Regards Brett

Hi Jason, just my 2bobs worth, could you run the wiring harness under your console and cut a rectangle slot the size of the multi pin connector in the panel dividing the cabin from the ute space then mount it in this panel. Then connect the other half of the multi pin connector to the extension pieces and run to your relays.
  Cheers Scott

I like your 2 bob worth Scott. I can take a leaf out of my job and make a panel that goes behind the centre console that can also be covered by fabric when the car gets upholstered. The wires can easily be routed via the console and I don't have the problem of getting any connections through an A pillar. Then the loom can be removed when desired, and wont be seen in the car when complete. 

CraigA, the equation that ou gave me would be awesome, but don't forget the other end of the lengthened wires, equals 400 wires + 400 mechanical joins + 400 solder joins + 400 bits of heatshrink <> bucketloads of fun  ::) ;D ;D 

With this method I may be able to get away with the second harness for the length of wires, the only 200 joins!!!

I am enjoying the input guys thank you.

JB

Hello Jason, what I'm thinking of doing is using multicored cable such as the cable used for PLC input/output connections. you get about 30 cores with an overall diameter of about 18mm and each core is rated at 7 amps. Although all the cores are black they are imprinted with core numbers every 200mm or so. You could then use a multi connector at the back and run a single cable to the front and use a firewall connector such as the f**d one. Just an idea I've come up with. Cheers Jack

Having just put a complete VT loom into a EH (along with a supercharged V6), but leaving all the components in basically the original position I offer three thoughts.
1 Hope you have bought the Service & Maintenance CD from a Holden dealer - gives you all the wiring circuits & looms
2 Note that in the same loom there are the same colour coded wires for different circuits, they are usually different gauges but hard to pic
3 You can have the airbag circuit disabled by a Holden dealer (Tech 2 required to program option in speedo)

Ehsv6,

I got a cd from ebay for about $14 compared to the holden one for $400 I think it was... This is the second loom that I will have done, but the first time i was able to cut one and join one... quite simple. But was looking at cutting the whole lot to extend them. i may not have to now as am looking at using the centre console as the carrier for the cables.

Airbag is going to remain as well as the seat belt tensioners, with ABS etc.

Cheers
JB

Hey Jason,fantastic work by the way.With regards to joining the loom (not sure if it has been mentioned before) and following up on Craig's usefull advice, make sure you offset the cut on each wire so that when you join them all back together you don't have a huge bunch of joins all in the one spot.You probably already thought of that but just in case you didn't....Cheers,Jamie.

Not my idea  :'( http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3218&start=15

Just a little news... The Van has been sold... dropped it off to Glenn on Wednesday on the way to Melbourne to start the new course for Jetstar. This will help pay for some of the previous pictures LOL... well some anyway. i hope you get lots of happy miles as I did with the van Glenn.

Cheers
JB

Jason,

Good news on the sale of your van, but I bet tinged with some sadness  :(. The ute looks like its progressing nicely, some nice pics showing your great work  :).

You'll be pleased to hear I have finely got around to registering the FC van ;D, without I word of a lie, since I got her way back in December last year, I have done nothing except replace the swaybar rubbers and strapped the battery in, took her down to the mechanic (drove her on dealer plates  ;D  ;D  ;D, how fun was that considering the extent of driving has been in & out of the driveway), thinking I'll get a list of things to fix, and drove her back on paid up CTP insurance and a RWC  ;D :D ;D :D ;D. I did get a small list of very minor infringements he wanted looked at, but I just can't believe how well she has kept after so many years of (basically) storage. Temp gauge didnt get over half and I havent changed oil, coolant or anything since getting her, but she'll be getting the works now I can drive her.

Taking her to Transport on Friday for rego (what a great birthday present hey) and then driving her around all day  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D. Thanks once again for putting me onto her (in a non sexual way, not that theres anything wrong with that  :D)

Cheers Marc

Its fantastic to see it finally back on the road, I am sure you will get lots of joy out of it... or even (Being in her!!!)

My van has gone to a good home and hopefully will see it at Orange back in original form...

Not sure if i will get the ute there though as my new job has taken priority.

Cheers
JB

Awesome build Jason 8) 8). Very impressive mods to say the least, be great to see the finished product....well done!!

Thanks... I cant wait to see it done also...

While i am down here in Melbourne, I think I will go and look for a sump to cut up...

How many weeks left now Jason? Must be itchimg to get back into it.
                    Cheers Glenn

Hey Glenn,

I have 2 weeks till endorsed, then a week off...

Then I actually start with the company, 2 weeks induction...

Then transition checks.. Then I get into the real thing...

I could be here till January.. Hmmm

So yes I am itching... and if it gets to orange it wont be in a completed form thats for sure...


So will see how I go.

Jason.

Jason,

I think there's a wrecker close to the airport! CommWreck?

Cheers

Ed

Corio Auto wreckers is the go....

Hey Brad... ;D ;D ;D ;D

Come on Jason theres nothing wrong with commwreck (when i was there)
But u are right about corio auto parts ;D

Well its been awhile since I have got to doing anything on the ute but have been home a week, so here are a few more snaps... Orange is not going to happen for the ute unfortunately... :(

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/PB180003.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/PB190008.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/PB190011.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/PB200016.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/PB210020.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/PB210024.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/PB210026.jpg)

What a couple of hectic days that have gone by trying to get this done. The engine has been in and out about 5 times while trying to get it to align up and for it to have the required clearance from the firewall. I had to chop the firewall again and will still need a little more massaging to get the engine to go in and out easily.

The engine mounts had to be moved on the crossmember and on the engine, and I need to re weld the sump again.

But am happy that it has the engine in and mounted properly... still heaps to do and i dont know when i will be able to get back to it..
I hope you enjoy the pics.

Cheers
JB

Jase.  Great to see you back in town.  Must seem like an eternity since you last worked on the ute. Motor fittment is looking great and now you're home progress can at least be forward instead of stagnant.

Jase

http://gallery.oldholden.com/hrpremier/

Nope, thats it for I dont know how long, back to melbourne tomorrow and then darwin by the start of next year... So will just have to wait and see... sad really as i cant wait to fire it up and take it for a drive.

Cheers
JB

JB
I have spotted you in the forum, however no reports on progress ???

Cheers Jim

Hi Jim,

Yes mate I have been here on the forum, however my car is in Cairns and I am now in Darwin.

I started at Jetstar 4 months ago and that is where the progress has finished. I am really itching to get back into it, but won't be bringing the car across here as its a non goer at the moment so the car carriers wont touch it and i haven't room to store it.

With that also i cant get holidays to go to the Nationals... again... Not a happy camper!!!

But rest assured that the ute will be finished, hopefully within the next 12 months all going well.

I need a good 3 weeks at it to probably get it running, and some dollars to inject into some of the more expensive parts, lsd, coil overs for the rear, tailshaft, reconditioning the brakes, etc

Then its all about time on it.

I just want to hear it going, bring it on.

Cheers
Jason

hi jb I'm loving this post the pictures are very inspiring but the i am intrigued with is the one of the front end  did you build it yourself  or purchase it if so where from
regards allan

Hi Allen,

The front end was purchased from V6 conversions in Moree.

Will set you back about $5K then need VT, VX brake components... they just bolt up, and a power steering rack.

Cheers
JB

cheers for that imfo JB but this point i`m trying to talk myself out of selling the ute to make more room in the shed the only way i can swing the neighbour`s cat at the moment is to hold it by the head and the little bastard keeps scratching me but i`m sure i`ll get over it especially after seeing your progress
allan

Hi Jase,
         how is it all coming along? I know you have been busy with the new job, so i wouldn't expect that alot of progress has been made. But you know the old saying "patients is a virtue" and "good things come to those who wait". It is hard to believe that it has been a year since you started this post. Anyway good luck with it and i hope to see you in Orange,
     Cheers Scotty

Hey mate,

No progress for a long time I am afraid, however in the next week i hope to get it steering so as to move it.. So if successful hopefully I will get some pictures on here.

Orange... MMMM  :-\ :-\ I hope so.

JB

Well it steers, no photos I am sorry as the camera I had died.

Bought a VS power steering rack, and some blank arms... Cut to length and then had a thread tapped to fit series 1 VT steering arms.

Bolted up and made a make shift connection to the steering wheel, very good lock to lock on this one so I am very happy with the result... Now I just have to raise the coil overs so that the wheel will steer under the guards.

Cheers
JB

Throw a question out there...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8130015.jpg)

18's on the rear and 16's on the front???

Something like these in chrome... i have had polished alloy too much work to keep them clean when driving everyday.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/Rmonterey_enlarged.jpg)

I think someone was asking about wiper motors the other day...
This is a VS motor that I am using.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5300006.jpg)

18's all round with radiused front guards.  ;D

like those wheels too

I reckon the vl wheels that are on the front would look great all round.
Cheers
Deano

The Foose mags look good J.B., but I'm not so sure about the different sizes front to back they look a bit out of proportion to me.
            Pedro

The reason being that I will have 18x10's on the back with the rear lowered to about an inch over the rim.

Can't do this on the front as it wont turn. But I want the tyres to have the same profile, as I don't think the look is right having 30 profile tyres on the FE/FC's on big wheels, so will be aiming for 40 - 45 profile tyres. Hence the reason for the different rim size, the car will still ride level.

Ed, I have thought very seriously about radiusing the front guards just like Harko did to his FB coupe. This is still a possibility.

Just want to get the look right first time.

Jase,
if you can get a look at or some photos of Frank McCallif's Pro FE, his front wheel arch's have been radiused and you wouldn't even know. He has done a fantastic job. Most people wouldn't look twice at it, it's just one of the many subtle changes that he has done to that beautiful car.

Try these for a comparison



This is my car with standard radius on the guard,

(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/goa350/08FEFCNats243.jpg) and this is Franks car,(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/goa350/thOrange-Sat-528.jpg)

 If you look at the difference in length from the top of the guard to the top of the radius you will see how much Frank has lifted the radius. It is a very neat job.

I think the yay's have it... Radius the front guards it is!

What's a little more massaging to the car?

Well, its finally found its way to the new home. Now to get some of the finest Mig gas and an angle grinder to start it all again... Tomorrow it gets unloaded and work out where the hell I am going to start again.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03195.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03200.jpg)

Good to see you made it one piece JB and the Ute as well.

Some gas, a new grinder, a day off... About bloody time I did some work on the ute after about 12 months!!!

Decided to start form the back and work my way forward. See how it goes.

Took a bit to get started again after cleaning the back of the ute out and seeing all of the surface rust from being stored in a humid climate. Wire brushed all of it back to look like it was loved again and then filled some of the holes I found hidden by a tar type of sealant the previous owner gooped on.
Once the holes were full, cleaned behind the spare tyre door and made a strip fill the gap at the bottom of the door as it will be welded in... No room for the tyre anymore with the tank, and the filler cap.

Next day off will fill in the rest of the panel and smooth it all off.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03263.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03264.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03266.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03270.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03273.jpg)

Looking good.

with the wheels i loved my walkinshaws but they are a bit outdated i think
I always see toy cars shopping the ones rolling  those massive rear wheels tubbed into the guards i like that look heres my car with the walkinshaws.


(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/petes%20photos/Picture009.jpg)

I like Harkos 20 minute rule... Turned into 3 hours of getting some stuff done.

Finished off the spare tyre door today.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03279.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03276.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03278.jpg)

Need to seal the number plate light next and then look at the hump in the tray where the fuel pipe was.

Good to see you're back in action JB.

Cheers

Ed

Thanks Ed, good to be back on it.. now I can bore you all again with little bits that I get to do on it as well.  ;D ;D

And we are looking forward to it! ;D

Keith

Thanks Ed, good to be back on it.. now I can bore you all again with little bits that I get to do on it as well.  ;D ;D

No boredom here JB. Keep it coming... please

Cheers Brett

OK then, some more photos...

Now that I have filled in the spare tyre door I have to stop the water from entering into the back of the car. Had to cover the number plate light.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03336.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03337.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03351.jpg)

Then flattened out the hump for the fuel filler pipe.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03335.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03339.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03347.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03350.jpg)

Need to get some sheet folded next for the tray.

Cheers
JB

Well at the start of today I didn't have much to screw the timber to...

After getting some steel folded in the old profile came up with this design.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03354.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03358.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03359.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03360.jpg)

Ran out of time today, so have another 3 pieces to cut and weld before its all done.

The space front left is for the sub woofer, and the one on the right is for the battery, and all of the relays... the wiring is probably not too far away now.

Cheers
JB

Looking good Jason.
   Cheers Glenn

Don't you hate it when you are in the swing and you run out of welding wire!!!

Got some more and finished the bits for the timber. Just need to grind the welds and smooth over.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03386.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03387.jpg)

Jason,

I bet you are glad to be back inot it! Great work!

Keith

That should be "into it"

Hardest part is stopping when it gets to about 6pm... can't make too much noise and annoy the neighbours.

But I am getting things done a little at a time. Its good to have it back at home thats for sure!

good work Jas,

Is that Gal? 

Noise can be an issue at my place too, so I like rainy, windy days as it means everybody is inside with the doors and windows closed. Means scheduling the noisey jobs to certain times of the day.

Cheers

Ed

Good stuff JB, I ran out of mig wire myself halfway thru a job on the w/end, luckily I had a bit of 0.6mm left on an old spool to finish the job. Annoying tho. Good to see you back into it, going to have to get a giddy up myself now ;D. Cheers Jack

Thanks guys...

Yes Ed its gal, I ordered zinc, but they bent the wrong stuff up and gave me gal...At a reduced price. I figured that when it gets sand blasted that the paint will stick to it.

Couple of bits of timber fitted today and 2 pieces of timber, but I have to go to work so more photos tomorrow.

Cheers
JB

Its been a long time since I could call the back of this car a ute. When I first got it all that was there was a 3mm pice of chequered aluminium. These bits won't be the final finish, but a template, and to store stuff while I do the rest of the car.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03388.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03389.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03390.jpg)

Jason,

At least it is now starting to look the goods, well done, at least it will give you some more room to hide things.

Keith

great work as usual Jas,

luckily they're not the final finish... the grain on the wood panels dont line up front to back
 :P

Cheers

Ed

I was tempted to say something myself  :-X

Don't be shy! As always any comments welcome...

The board that is in there is 9mm, I think 12mm will be better to give it more strength. My brother wants me to put polished timber in there, but and worried about cracking/splitting as its only thin and not laminated. Maybe a type of veneer on the top I dont know. The floor will mainly be covered.

But I will get them all running the one way just for you guys  :P ;D

Cheers
JB

Make sure the grain runs front to rear and not across to reduce wind resistance.  ;)

David

I once made a alloy checkerplate tool box for a blokes caravan he said great job but was pissy i didnt line up the checkers on the checkerplate

I said your joking  right and he wasnt.

Theres no pleasing some people.


Pete

Another few moments on the ute. Made a couple of bracket for the fuel filter and the vapour seperator (well I think that's it).

Does anyone know where to get some of this fuel line in Melbourne as well. Need a little more length than what I have. (Lots of lines there!)

Some rear wiring harness next hopefully.

Thanks JB

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03395.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03394.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03392.jpg)

Thinking about it I will use a rubber hose and some clamps on the old fittings.

Should make it a little easier to find and make the appropriate length.

JB

JB.
Rubber fuel lines can normally be bought at the speed shops in length. Some of the connections on your tank may go to the carbon canister and throttle body. I ran metal pipes to the front of the vehicle for this only to be told by the engineer i did not need to run the canister due to the year of the vehicle and some other things. Check with your engineer first as you may not have to run additional lines/hoses.
regards Brett

use a stubby holder around your fuel pump or small resilant mounts tp keep the noise down them 044,s are noisy buggers.

Thanks Brett, the lines I am running are directly from the commodore, 3 in total, feed return and vapour, plus  the brake line... All i did last time was carefully straighten the old ones out and rebend them. I have a flare kit to re do them when I cut the lines to go through the floor near where the tank is and the fuel filter.

Pete, thats a steel fuel filter, the fuel pump is the one from the VT which is contained in the surge pot inside the tank. I will show you a photo. So from memory I think I could just hear it in the van... sometimes not as the stereo was usually up a bit  ;D ;D

Cheers
JB

Should have looked a bit harder shouldnt i

Thats how big my day was at work was looking at the forum on my phone bit hard to see pics.


Looking good.

The photo of the fuel pump and surge tank.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03396.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03397.jpg)

Ever got to a stage when you look and think where do I go here  ??? ???

Some of the wires have to be lengthened, some shortened and some the same. Big time brain teaser!!

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03398.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03399.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03400.jpg)

JB,
I know what your going through. i did the same. Easiest way is to remove all the tape and run the wires to the areas you know. Shorten and lengthen and then work on the others last. its all worth it in the end mate
Brett

Thanks Brett,

I have 2 front wiring harnesses so am planning on joining the two to get he correct length and have the same colour codes with all of the relays etc behind the seats.

Trouble I am having at the moment is where to join the 2. Lots more thought to go into it before I get into it with the snips  ;D ;D

Cheers
JB

Couple more shots of some slow progress this week...

Fuel system hooked up to the tank, have to get some more fuel line to run to the front of the car as the donor stuff rusted. But happy with the result at the back.
Many hours spent on cleaning up the rear wiring harness from the VT donor, removed the back door looms, wired up the rear lights, and the ABS and the fuel pump. But still very messy in here.
Just sat in the lighting switches in the glove box... need to finish off the brackets to make it a little more permanent.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03401.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03404.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03406.jpg)

Hope you are enjoying the snaps.
Cheers
JB

Great Snaps. Those wires do look like spaghetti. Some nice stuff with the fuel tank and tray.


Regards


Wayne

Lovin it,lovin it.... 8)

Keep going, your entertaining me.

Not much to show for a days work, couple of holes, a mess of wires on the floor of the garage... and a some neatened connectors waiting for the front wiring harness. At least the rear section of the wiring is nearly done.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03408.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03409.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03410.jpg)

looks like fun JB

8 years since the last time I did this Ed, I had forgotten how much "fun" it was... 2 bruises on the rib cage and a sore neck from lying on the tray manipulating the soldering iron and hair dryer for the heat shrink, I am a bit sore this morning.  ;D

8 years older, 8 times sorer i bet  ha ha

Been sitting in cramped places for 10 hours now, more sore neck and lower back... stuff all to show for it really.

The rear harness has been completed. Started on the main harness last night and continued today.

Bloody hard to know where to start, walked away a couple of times before I cut too many wires in frustration. All the brackets have been made for the relays, and fuses and am hoping that when i get this bit tidied up that it will get a bit easier to extend the connectors to the correct places. Hopefully the next shot will be a tidy wiring set up in the back.  :-\ :-\ ;D

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03508.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03510.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03511.jpg)

Looking good JB, you've certainly made some progress since i last checked, have fun with the spagetti ;)
              Pedro

Thanks mate, you have been missing for while... Good to see you back.

Just noticed my new status... only taken 10 years  ;D ;D ;D

Hi JB, I know the feeling with the wiring, just spent 2 days shortening the wiring loom going to the computer. Once you start getting rid of all the excess wires it starts to come together. Stick at it, you'll get there. Cheers, Jack

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03513.jpg)

Looks a lot neater in here after a bit more head scratching. Pulled through the wires as much as I could and shortened what I had to.
Have a few more joins to make when the engine harness is inside the cab.

On the other side of the fence though... looks very messy indeed!!!!

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03514.jpg)

Anyone for spaghetti??  ;) ;D

Keep at it JB you'll get there.

Dean.

Ok its time to put the clubs away and get back to the car building.

Cheers Jim  ;D

Mate, just got out of bed after sleeping in, now on the balcony at Lake Glenmaggie eating breakfast/lunch looking out over the water with blue skies all around, throwing the ball for the dog. may even go and play a lazy nine holes later on. the car won't get a look at until the end of the week. But then it's full steam ahead. from all of the scary post about V8 laws lately it looks like I have until the end of the year to get the car RWC and on the road... It won't be finished but will at least be registered and on the road. so depending on if I can get holidays over Easter, which is about a 50 to 1 as they only give a few slots out over Easter the Perth here I come...

tough life JB!

looking fwd to progress shots.

Cheers

Ed

X2 !!!!

Good luck with rego when you get there, have you engaged an engineer yet?

Keith

No engineer yet, I will call Lindsay Stone when I get home (my Queensland engineer) to ask him to varify my previous work, and then pass it on to the new engineer... Anyone know of good ones in Victoria?
That's the plan at the moment anyway... Will get cracking on to it next week.
Before I left I had about 3-4 days left on the wiring harness... Then engine sump, fuel lines, brake lines, and rear shocks to do. Hopefully get an engine start in the next few months maybe in may we will see.

Just spoke to my engineer in QLD and also an engineer in Vic.

To get my car done here, I have to get a torsional rigidity test done... $1500, to get the rest of the car done will set me back around $1500, so a total of $3000 just for the engineering side here.
His advice... Take the car back to QLD get it registered there in my name, drive it back to Vic and transfer the rego back to my name here. Don't know the cost involved in doing this way but will look at it a little more.
Benefit of the QLD way is no time limit at this stage.
The guy in Vic has said that he is going to Vic roads to clarify the rulings on time frames for people that have started cars already, but I won't know the result of his question.

JB

Good luck with it JB

I hope that it all works out for you and that you are able to get it registered. Torsional rigidity tests are, I believe very hard on cars, however it is my opinion that once you get outside of a certain parameter than this should be mandatory on all vehicles and not rely solely on weight.

This way people would be able to talk to an engineer, understand what the engineer requires to have the car deemed to be safe, be able to build the car and at the completion, have it tested to the engineers standards and then be able to have it legally registered.

Isn't that what everyone wants??? Or am I being too cynical???

Keith

I think that you are correct in saying that people want to know that the engineering that they have put in to their car is safe and up to an engineering standard. But I am sure that not everyone, including myself have the sort of coin needed to carry out the required tests. $3000 is around 6% of my build, but would be well and truly more than 10% of many peoples modification and rebuild.
In saying all of that I have taken as much as possible all of the required steps to make the ute correctly, and feel that it would pass any test.

Cheers
JB

we spoke to the local engineer about putting a five litre into the idiot bloke at works L200 ute today and he said the new laws came in in NSW so we have to go book a test track and do all the break test bullshit

really pissy that this is going to affect getting my cars regod even tried bribing local bloke to rego it with what was in it didnt want a bar of it understandably.


so what the hell is going on no one really knows its all up in the air at the moment ..
bit concerning tho..



Pete

sorry to hear that FChoon as your work looks quality. perhaps they are worried about being sued if someone got killed or some crap. was even hard to get my old truck back on the road even not modified.

I am thinking of doing a really well balanced grey and good rack steering and brake setup now. keep it all original and tasteful. might buy a car thats already rego's and engineered for fun but needs work, would be much easier. i dont really see the point spending a billion as its not gunna handle as well as me new sv6 anyway (getting that in 3 weeks). Might do a souped up small car for fun and have both. but nothing is as cool as an fe/fc.

Hi jason, new to the forum and just found your site. Congratulations on your commitment to the job, I did similar to an EK van 20 odd years ago, got the stitch many times and took years to finish.... I put a 304 VL calais floor with front rail connected into it, the rear tin was kept standard with engineered workings to hold the diff. For interested partys my fuel tank is v6 Pajero very easy to fit and holds 95 litres. would love to send photos but being a silly old bugger can't do so. because of that experience my 2 Fj vans and fe van are stock standard...... Again well done . Cheers, Peter.

I was lucky enough to have 1 Fe van, but to have 2 FJ's as well must be pretty nice!!!

If you like, send me some photos, jhblanchard@live.com and I will post them in the members cars section for you. I am sure we all would love to see them.

The wiring sometimes makes me want to throw in the towel... I think by the time its done there will have been over 700 connections cut and spliced... Very scared that I have not misplaced 1 or 2, and I am having trouble getting a wiring diagram for the HSV immobiliser so its only guesswork on that one at the moment.
The smoke test will definitely be interesting!!!

Cheers
JB

JB,
I have had a bit to do with HSV vehicles and it is difficult to get this information for obvious reasons. I will let you know that there are about ten different wiring harness configurations all color coded black so that a thief will not know which harness has been fitted. Only HSV has a record of what harness is in each vehicle.If all harnesses were the same then it would not take a thief long to work out. What year vehicle wiring and computer are you fitting. Dont know if i can help you too much though. For the obvious reasons contact me through the personal messages as i wouldn't want people to know what is being fitted.
Regards Brett

Well, holidays over, golf clubs now packed away... More bloody wiring  ::) ::)

Hadn't thought I had done much until I looked at the last photo... Over a hundred wires there now.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03724.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03725.jpg)

JB,

I am pleased thatb you have the patience to sit there and sort that out! I would be so frustrated in no time flat.

Good luck with it, sincerely hope that no smoke leaks out when you try it the first time.

Keith

Is it worth all the hassle

are you doing it for the ABS ect

is a standard VS ss any different i started to pull the wiring out of my vs for the wifes HT prem but gave up a mate gave me a motec computer only has about 12 wires.







I know it feels good to make that huge achivement but if its doing your head in is it really worth it?


Pete

Thanks for the encouragement guys, I am just being a sook. When I did the van it took me about 60 hours work on the wiring... I knew before I started that it would take me about a 100 hours to do this time. Just been 2 months when I can get to it and I am looking forward to getting onto something else.

Wiring harness for me is for a number of reasons, and initially started with the van when I did it so I didn't have to stuff with the speedo conversion. Also when I did the van I was told that air cond and ABS was impossible to do, so not knowing any different I believed them. This time I know better and am doing it my way, and when finished I don't think that there will be many like it... ie, ABS, Air bag, seat pre tensioners, and climate control when I finish it. The rest has been done, central lock, power windows, thermos etc.

I am not sure about the VS harness as i have only ever used the Vt's in both of my conversions... the ute is the second car I have ever done.

I think I have only about 20 hours to go and it should be close to being finished, then back on the welder  ;D ;D

Cheers
JB

Good luck mate. Not long now then when you say it like that. :D


Truly amazing if you ask me.


Regards


Wayne

Good luck with it JB

If it ever leaks smoke, (and I sincerely hope that it doesn't) here is a replacement jar of smoke ;D ;D

(http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/14952/2454401820060682858S600x600Q85.jpg) ($2)

NOS that stuff is hard to get, but as our cars get older the replicated stuff gets more common  :P ;D ;D

I smoked my harness as the .22 shells didnt cut it as fuses that is the worst smell i have ever smelt bloody horrid.

Its more fun smoking tyres than harnesses, Hey JB

Keep at it JB. I'm finding that every time I think the wiring is finished I discover something else that needs to be wired up ???  I THINK I only have the fuel pump and sender to go but I guess time will tell. Cheers, Jack

AHHHH MR LUCAS the prince of darkness and the bottle of not so rare lucas smoke :D

Took the idea from the 5th wheel video to turn the ute around. Need to get better access to this side of the car and the front to get some more things done.

Hopefully get some progress on the sump next week... Wiring not finished but I have had enough of it for the moment.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03727.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03728.jpg)

Finally managed to do something today on the ute... Work keeps getting in the way of progress  :(

Need to put the power steer pump, air conditioning compressor and the alternator on and then can make the sump clear whatever is in the way.

Not going to be an easy job, but nothing is at this stage. The alternator hits just about everything, not sure what to do yet. I need to get a smaller A/C unit to fit in the space . But did manage to get the power steering pump in place. Just some tidying up to make it look like it belongs.

Cheers
JB

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03730.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03733.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03734.jpg)

Wow your a real inspiration and the ute looks so cool from the side, particularly due to the colour, it suits the ute so well.

Just wondering if you have spoken to your engineer lately about the engine you have chosen and whether it is still ok with him to go up to that capacity as I am seeking various opinions on the new rules etc. Some say this and some say that it seems. If you know the engineer well, can you ple revisit it if its not already engineered and let me know what yours says. Thanks and well done. It does suck how life gets in the way of having time for our builds  :(

Deano,

I spoke to the Victorian engineer and also to my engineer in QLD. Basically because I had started the project with an engineer engaged the Victorian one would allow me about 12 months to finish. That said, he would have had to do a torsion test which was $1500 plus the engineering side for another $1500. He suggested I stay with my previous engineer, which will be down here for the Targa Tasmania and will look at the car when he returns. When the car is completed I will truck it to QLD, roadworthy and register, then drive it home... Can't wait!!!!

JB

Hey JB,

Nice to see progress... I noticed I have the same toolbox as you.

what runs off the ribbed belt, and what runs off the V belt?

Have you thought about solid mounting your alternator and using an idler pulley for belt tension? 

I also found a smaller JE Camira alternator was easier to fit up, and still provides 60A.

should be nice with PS and AC.

Cheers

Ed

Thanks mate for the info. Yeah I spoke to a third engineer in Victoria and he said that I am limited to the new capacity, so there goes any hope of turboing an rb30 which i already have. Just misses out by 100cc or so and he said there is no leeway at all.  So now I have settled for something which is slightly cooler, a lexus quad cam v8. Should be cool.

Hey Ed,

The V belt is for the power steering, and the 2 serpentine belts are for the alternator and A/C.

Just been down to see Brad from Corio Auto Parts and he runs a VN/VP alternator that fits underneath the throttle body, just have to take a little out of the head to make it fit, so that sounds like the go, and then I get to keep the 80amp alternator as well.

With the Air cond, looks like I will just have to make a bracket to mount it where I want it to go and make the adjustable idler above its current position.

Dean,

If you are serious about your rb30 then go the Queensland way... once you have it regoed in QLD then you just have to transfer paperwork over.

Not sure how long this loop hole will last though.

Cheers
JB.

Another part another job done...  Thanks Brad, I have to find out what you drink!

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03739.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03740.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03742.jpg)

Am pretty happy with the result, will look better when its all the same colour. Now I have a place to take the wiring to.

Managed to turn the piece I cut out around and fill a hole as well. Just ran out of time to weld it back in.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03745.jpg)

Cheers
JB

Nice work JB.It is all coming together. ;)

I have just had a bit of a change of mind and this is cos of a local opportunity that came up. I know of a dune buggy with Hilux LSD, v6 buick with its 5 speed box close by. The Hilux LSD diff has same size track at an fe and if I got the good running buick v6 with it, there is plenty u can do to them after rego. id just get it engineered with the v6 and hopefully nobody will notice a supercharger later on  ::)

that way I get a dune buggy for the kids (not me or my mates of course) and get all the running gear, including high pressure external fuel pump etc at the same price as they would normally cost if i got it all together. Then I can put the rb30 in the buggy with its 5 speed box, so not wasting anything. The guy is going to give me some vn gear like coolings systems etc if i go ahead.

Cool thing is that we can fang around in the buggy until i am ready for the transplant which wont be for a while anywho.

Sounds like a plan Deano.

I wish mine was as close as yours though Jamie, I keep thinking as I am putting stuff together that I have to pull all of this apart again..  :-\ :-\

But in saying that there is still lots more fun to be had... Can't wait to hear it fire up in the ute for the first time, it will be a very sweet moment indeed.

ahh purple udl (vodka & passionfruit) real ladies drink
thanks jas

(http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg4/tuffute/059.jpg)
(http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg4/tuffute/061.jpg)
(http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg4/tuffute/060.jpg)
hope theses help jason if they upload
(http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg4/tuffute/IMG_0433.jpg)
(http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg4/tuffute/IMG_0438.jpg)
and the last two are for inspiration
sorry couldn't help my self
thanks brad

One day mate they will sit side by side!

The alternator does sit in there neatly, now I have to find one.

Purple UDL noted...

Engineer came over yesterday, down from Townsville to do the Targa Tasnmania. Fixed a seal on his 4wd, then looked at the ute. He had not seen it for about a year and liked what he saw, nothing to redo or re engineer.  ;D Gave me a few more ideas too, but the next time he needs to see it will be when being driven for the final inspection so a very happy camper I am. Continue on I will.  ;D 8) 8)

That is great! I love the wheels on the "inspiration" ute.

good stuff JB.

Here are some shots of the seat belt brackets for Blok.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03747.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03748.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03749.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03750.jpg)

Spoke to the engineer about the bracket when he was here, they measure 3750mm sq to be legal.
Welded in behind the pillar to look neat, and then under the floor.

Cheers
JB

That sounds right, i had to do the same for mine.
 Great to hear about the engineer, it makes doing modifications more promising if you want to register it.

Thats great JB just what I wanted your build looks great by the way

what is the thickness of the plates used for the seat belt mounts JB ?

great work by the way

FE 4 ME

The plates are 7mm x 50mm x 80mm, so the area I had was 4000sq mm.

I have seen some plates that are long and skinny to get the 3750sq mm.

Thanks for the appreciation, but I wish it was further along and at least getting some colour done... One day soon.  ;D ;D

Cheers
JB

Thankx JB,
     i was hunting around my shed today and i pulled out some pre-drilled plates with rounded edges that do qualify for area coverage being 50mm x 95mm but the thickness is only 3mm...im thinking that maybe the thickness will let me down...im hoping not cause they would do just nice, i have a few of them, but not enough to double the plates up to increase the thickness...

3mm to thin ??

cheers JB

FE 4 ME

I would say its too thin because you need to be able to get enough depth of thread for the bolt., would you use a 3mm nut to stop you in an accident?

JB

thicker the better and it has to be 1 piece.

i forgot to mention these are for the floor and pracel shelf mountings, not the pillars, i was going to use HT nuts and bolts to go through the plates...that's the info i got off a installer who does rear seat n belt installs in vans and baby seats... they have the standard plates pretty cheap, but i cant remember how thick they are..i do recall he said the total area of the plate has to equal 3" x 3" in total

does this sound similar to your advise ???

FE 4 ME

I am not sure of the thickness you will require for your application, you may need to talk to your engineer about it as any seat modifications require engineering.

Cheers
JB

Yeah i will he was a nice guy and happy to help

cheers...enjoying watchn ur work...very handy

FE 4 ME

Its amazing how much fine dust is made from cast steel, I made the mistake a few days ago of not closing a couple of doors to the house and then began work on the air cond bracket. To say I made a mess is an understatement, not to mention the trouble I got into with Nicki.

I bought a second air cond bracket and cut it up to fit the original one that I had, then took 5 hours to cut, grind, weld, and then do it all again to make it fit into the only spot that the compressor will fit. A tight  spot it was too.
Bought a small gas bottle to heat up the cast steel before welding the 2 pieces together, and here is the result.

I just have to weld on the idler to tension the belt and strengthen the bracket some more to stop fatigue cracking at a later stage.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03751.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03752.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03753.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03756.jpg)

Hey JB,

The number of posts in this thread is bearing down on the number in the title.

It's bloody inspirational stuff, and a great service you're providing for those who come after you wanting to take on this sort of project on their own.

Keep up the good work.

cheers
RET

Thanks RET, the line of thinking is that there are not too many projects that get shown from start to finish in detail. I guess after reading the build books that showed the progress stage by stage and how helpful they were I thought some guys and girls may like it. Some stuff may not be perfect, but I am just having a crack.

Cheers
JB

Hey JB what build books are you talking about that you have ? be good to have something in book for to gain further skills and knownldge

thankx for taking the time to share and show this to the rest of us...it's been very helpful

kepp up the high quality work

"Have a Great Holden ( FE ) Day !!! "  :D :D :D

FE 4 ME

Put these up really early on the thread.

try http://www.buildbookusa.com

I think I got 2 for $25 US plus postage.

Cheers
JB

JB thankx,
   must of read past that post, as i do remember the electrics all over your floor...

cheers

"Have a Great Holden ( FE ) Day !!! "  :D :D :D

FE 4 ME

Needed 4 trips to Bursons to get 2 bloody belts that fit... Finally got the lengths correct and then got to weld the idler onto the cast steel.

This is the end result. Now I need to get hold of the alternator that will fit, make the brackets to suit, and get the belt size correct  ::)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03760.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03761.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03762.jpg)

Can also see in this pic that I have to get a length of cable to go to the battery in the back.

Cheers
JB

When I need belts I have a long belt that I have cut to give me a long length that I put in place then measure it ,  all belts have the measurement on them so you can go to parts store and ask for the right length .....FC427.....

that's a good idea!

do you measure the inside or the outside of the cut belt?

My problem was that I had pulled the engine out of the Commodore nearly 2 years ago now, all of the old belts went. So it was hit and miss for me.  :(

Inside Jack  ....FC427......

This might be a very novice response or advise,
 But would a piece of strong string or nylon rope work if you ran it around the pully and around the route you need for the belt, pull it tight, than mark where it joins.. Having made sure all your adjustments to tighten the belt where at their lowest to enable the belt to be tightened when fitted

wouldnt that give you the right measurement ?

Just a thought that would make it easier for you

hope the idea will work for you JB  ?? ???

good to see you have the heart installed

"Have a Great Holden ( FE...ute  ;) ) day !!!"  :D :D :D

FE 4 ME

FE  4 Me its because they sit up on the step that i think you would be out a bit on the length using string?


JB Do you have a folder or a tool box to write numbers on ?


I blew a slave cylinder on the clutch in my fc one day do you think i could remember what the hell i had used turned out to be a 80,s toyota corona slave....


I always write belts and numbers in a book now.


Pete

Thanks Pete, I do. I put all of the belt and hose jackets away for when I need them again... Made that mistake before  ;D ;D

FE 4 ME, I tried that method, failed dismally, FC 427 was right the bit of wire I had went into the grooves and gave me the wrong measurement.

Part of the fun I guess.

Cheers
JB

Hehehehe i guess it was too easy to be true...
    was trying to think of something easy that might have worked for you...but i guess you've been there tried that

which isnt a surprise when i think look at the quality and skill of your work

keep it up, you're doing great ( hehehe without my help   :)  )

NOTE : Have fun while your doing it, cause it looks like at the rate you're going you will be finished sooner than you think  !!!

"Have a Great Holden ( FE ) Day !!! "  :D :D :D

FE 4 ME

After some staring, a little bit of thinking.... Then some more staring I came up with a plan.

Took the original bracket off the engine for the alternator. This created enough space to make another bracket to accommodate the original alternator and not get another one, as I have a spare.

Started with some steel and the bracket containing the idler pulley.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03763.jpg)

Rotated the alternator a little, drilled a hole and extended the bracket, drilled another hole and now its sits in place nicely missing everything.  ;D ;D

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03764.jpg)

Now I have to make a backing plate in here that can then bolt to the front plate to make it rigid... Can't weld the 2 together or I won't be able to remove the alternator.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03765.jpg)


Work getting in the way again... see what I can do tomorrow arvo when finished.

JB

Measured and cut the rear bracket out this afternoon for the alternator, after a little trial and error got it in. Just need to get some spacers machined somewhere to make it even more rigid and then get another belt...  ::) The bracket for the cruise will also mount onto the rear bracket.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03766.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03767.jpg)

Hey JB,

Little by little it's all coming together. Keep up the great work!

Keith

You are correct Keith.... Little by little, and I got a little more done today.

Put the cruise control cable bracket on, and the a spacer to seperate the main battery cables going to the alternator and starter.

Question for anyone... There are 2 cables running back to the battery, one from the starter and one from the alternator - Has anyone relocated the battery to the boot before? And do you need to run 2 cables or can I just run a larger one back to do the same job??

Cheers
JB

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03768.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03769.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03770.jpg)

Just run a larger cable back to the boot. I used 25 sq mm welding cable for mine as it's plenty large enough and also very flexible. I have used the chassis as the negative path by welding nuts to the chassis and bolting the earth cables to them. Hope this helps, cheers, Jack

Thanks Jack, I really like the idea of the welding wire... Will have to go and find a supplier close by and get a length plus some crimps for the ends.

Cheers
JB

JB,

I too have done what Jack is doing, running welding wire through to the boot and using the body for the earth, just make sure that wherever you have an earth, scrape the paint off to ensure that you get a really good contact. Alternatively use a star washer, the type that when they bite in, they will break through the paint.

Keith

Progress is looking good JB, Im enjoying the updates.

Are you going to be using a circuit breaker with the battery relocation and what size cable did you have in mind?

I like the idea of the 25mm cable, and probably protect it with an 80A inline fuse, not sure yet. The other idea is for an external point in the engine bay for a battery charger/jumper leads that I have seen for other cars, which saves trying to get to the battery if it goes flat.

Again have to do a little more research.

Cheers
JB

JB
If you want a heavy duty and safe connection for jump starting you can't go past an Anderson Plug, they are safe and neat, handle high amps and you can get them with an incorporated safety cover.  You will need 2 one for the car and one for your jumper leads which you can make out of the same wire you use for the car.
Hope this helps, Cheers Wayne

I'll second that, JB. Does the job well.

Hmmm,interesting.....You don't need to run an extra cable to the boot.If you use a large (00 size,approximately 75mm2 cable) to your starter motor from the battery in the boot then you only have to run a 16mm2 (overkill) cable to that same terminal from your alternator  ??? .I have done this on my Commodore which has battery in the boot,body as the earth and agree to make sure you clean the area of steel to bare where the earth attaches.No point in having two cables doing the same job....Also no need for fuses/circuit beakers as the cable will only be about three feet long.There were no fuses on the charge cables on original later model cars so why complicate it.Different story if the cable goes to the back.Start cables can't be protected unless you can find a 600amp fuse somewhere.

Couple of little things tidied up today. The belt for the alternator fitted first time, I had plenty of play in this one though to get it right, could have gone down to the next belt which was 25mm shorter but thought that a better wrap around the pulley was better.

Tried to get the sump off today but it fouls on the front end, so the engine will have to come out to do the sump and the oil pick up... Bugger.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03771.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03772.jpg)

JB,

That is a tight fit, you did well to get all that in there.
What power steer setup are you going to use?

Keith

It was a bit more luck than good management Keith to get all of it in there. I put the motor so far back because I wanted to use the thermo fans out of the Commodore like i did in the van. Because of that decision and only because of that I was able to fit the air cond in the spot that it is in. Otherwise I don't know where it was going to go.

The power steer set up is a VS power steering rack on the V6 conversions front end and obviously the VT steering column, I just have to get an engineer to make the piece that connects the 2 now, and then get the hoses made, but not sure where to get them done yet, I haven't even thought about it.

I think the cruise control unit will need to get mounted next so that I can then start the wiring process again... YUK. But it has to be done.

Cheers
JB

I so hate wiring... Good luck with it

Keith

Little bit more done today, looks neat on one side but on the other... well.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03775.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03774.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03776.jpg)

Starting to fill up in here...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03779.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03782.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03781.jpg)

Time to pose a few more questions...

Are pod filters illegal in QLD for rego?

Is the original air sensor contained in the air box essential when now I am looking at a pod filter?

I also have to work out the best way to get the piping for the aircond and the battery cables through the firewall...

Cheers
JB

If its like NSW you only need a cover over the pod filter sold at supercheap ect.
In saying that i have never been pinged for not having one at all.


You will need the map sensor  unless you get a mapless tune done.

Just having a look at the manuals, I am planning on keeping the Mass Air flow sensor, and the other sensor that I was trying to find out about ended up being a Intake Air Temperature sensor. I think that I will be able to incorporate this in the system somewhere.

Hopefully a cover is all that I will need. When the van was registered nothing was said about the bare pod under the bonnet.

Cheers
JB

Hey Jason, the van was knocked for the filter for a blue slip, but o.k. for a pink slip. How does that work?

What's the difference between the blue and a pink slip? I have never registered a car in NSW. In Vic and QLD once registered then that was it for Road Worthy unless pulled over by the police for an inspection, or defect..

I was told to remove a pod filter by an engineer and fit the factory air box ??? ??? ...Blue slip is for an unregistered car cost $56....pink slip $32 ....FC427....

Why are pod filters so evil  ???

I reckon it just some thing that easy for them to notice that has been modified ??? ??? ??? bit like the cops can defect a modern car that has the exhaust changed from standard if they care to obey every letter of the law  ::) ::) ::) ....FC427.....

Cleaned up the wires behind the firewall for the engine management.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03785.jpg)

Jaycar had the cable 0 Guage, which after looking at it would be approx 45mm sq, and still flexible. The only thing that they didn't have was the correct crimp ends that I needed for the starter... Maybe Bursons for these.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03784.jpg)

Try an Electrical Wholesaler for the lugs.

John

If the cable is running through the cabin  it's suppose to be double insulated .....easy enough to do with convoluted tubing .......FC427.....

 ;)

Jason,

Try Battery World for the crimp ends. They will have them and will most likely crimp them for you. They did a couple of ends for my dual battery set up in the Hilux.

Cheers Rusty.

Another small step over the last few days, tidied up a bit of wiring harness to look at the pod filter. Made a small bracket for the map sensor and welded it to the alternator bracket. Managed to get the map sensor and the temperature sensor fitted inline also.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03786.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03787.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03788.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03789.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03790.jpg)

Bags not changing the alternator ;D

LOL, actually its not that bad... while the thermo fans are out!!! After that then I am not too sure.  ;D ;D

Ok, after I tried to fit the cable and found that it was too short I lucked in and they took it back as it was the end of the roll.

Then after some sound advice I took it and the earth cable to Battery World to get the lugs done. They looked after me very well and were very well priced. Got it all home and installed, and did the cruise control loom. Doesn't look the neatest yet but will tidy up when the car gets painted. Managed to fix some cut cables on the thermo fans and also mount the fuses for them. Time consuming stuff all of these electrics but I can see the light... hmmm.... at the end of the tunnel.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03792.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03793.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03795.jpg)

Dummy fitted the cover as well..

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03796.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03797.jpg)

Question,

The headlight buckets that have been used previously as speaker boxes are 6" in Diametre, but he speakers that I am looking at(Focal KRX3 ) are 6 1/2" diametre. Is the there a difference between the model for the headlight bucket, or are they all 6" Diametre?? If so what would be the best way to extend to the 6 1/2" that I am looking for... hmmm open for lots of lines here...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P8200004.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/Focalspeakers2.jpg)

Split the headlight 4 ways and put a strip in there.Lot of work was a quick suggestion
regards fatboy

As I was looking at your suggestion Fatboy, it dawned on me that looking at the woofer, it may not fit due to the size of the magnet hanging off the back... The headlight bucket may no be the option required here now...   :(

May have to find something else out of metal that will replicate the shape that I am after to weld in there.

Someone had to say it, I could go for one of those 6 1/2" extensions as well JB ;D

Dean.

Well it was out there!!  ;D ;D

Just looking at the Focal website the magnet is 120mm and has a mounting depth of 89 mm, speaker width is 165mm.

I think the FC headlight buckets were not as pointed as the ones that i have... does anyone have 2 to compare and or want to part with?

Just make one with a square back i can cut the rings and send them for you.




PETE

Thanks Pete PM sent

Cheers
JB

Commercial cake tin???

Who would have thought that I would have been learning about cake tins on a car site... There is a cake tin called a dolly vardon, shaped similar to the fe headlight bucket. It is 195mm diameter at the top which will fit the speaker and the the ring required to mount it. The only problem is that they don't say of they are made from alloy or steel.

Cheers
JB

the choice is clear JB..

it's either the Dolly Parton style headlight buckets or the Dolly Vardon style Cake tins.

so what's it gonna be?

I would just fab up a round cylinder... easy as for you.

Cheers

Ed

LMAO @ Ed's comment

Keith

I reckon ginger bread man twin  headlights would look the part.

Cut the back off the head light bucket, weld in a ring and weld the back on again.

You are right, I need to start with the new speaker rings first, and probably buy the speakers, but at $1100 for the 6 of them the funds are better spent at the moment, as I need the diff done and shocks, brakes etc for the rear... Bloody money always gets in the way of fun sometimes LOL.

Have been trying to get all of the jobs done that don't require spend at the moment, but they are starting to run out.

Cheers
JB

Jason

Been watching you're project for some time now and you should be proud of yourself.

Anyway who needs music... the sound of a V8...the wind in your hair and communication with whoever is in the passanger seat is more than enough.

I don't even turn the wireless on in my V8 EH as I love the note.

regards

Julius

Hi Julius,

I am sure that when I get it on the road the radio won't be on much as well  ;D ;D ;D

But if the Nationals gods line up for me and I am able to drive it to Perth my co driver usually sleeps for most of the journeys that we do, so some tunes will be in order. I think I have it skun now anyway with the help of all of the guys here.

Cheers
JB

What to do when is cold and raining outside??? Scissors, cardboard and tape of course... Will take this in to get made and consists of both my overflow bottle and the wiper washer fluid separated by a void to stop one from heating up the other.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03837.jpg)


(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03838.jpg)

And an update from the dog.  ;D

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03840.jpg)

Jase i dont think the radiator is going to work real well ;D ;D ;D
great work mate keep him up

                          Cheers Damo58

How did you know it wasn't full of water yet..  :P

Have you got all the bits to make  it?

 i getalloy  radiator snouts from the local bloke and just weld them in.
I did a XT falcon washer bottle and radiator overflow last month came up awesome 2mm alloy mirror finish.

He sold the car a week later wish i had not helped him now.

Hey Pete,

Haven't got any of the bits to do it or the Tig welder either. Was going to take the cardboard box to a fabricator that I know here and get a quote to do it... Could be expensive but I don't really have much of a choice. Only so much I can do with an angle grinder and a mig I guess.  ;D

Apparently this guy does stuff in stainless also, so will have to find out probably in a couple of weeks.

Cheers
JB

Send me the templates PO Box 1 Broke 2330 NSW


Ill do em in alloy if you want ..

I have 9 workers now so have a bit of time up my sleeve. well this week anyway.

Pete, thats awesome!!! I will get onto it.

Will flat pack it, and put in the washer motor as well.

Cheers
JB  ;D ;D

Jase.  Hows life in wet Melbourne treating you.  Been to many Hawks games since making the move?

Enough small chat. 

When you made the adjustable trailing arms, where did you source the bushes and red housings from.  I read the remark from Brett_F regarding engineers and preferences to self made options so will look into that before committing.  Looks like your build is going great guns.  Mine on the other hand is going nowhere at the moment.  I thought moving back to SA where family was would allow me more time to work on the car but with the bride working most nights and weekends (Chefing) Im no closer to commiting time than when I was in Cairns.  Oh how I appreicate how the HR came together before kids came on the scene.  Anyways would not be without them.  Stay safe and chat soon.  All the best

Jason

Hey Jase,

Been away to Singapore with work. Have seen a couple of Hawks games and yes its gets cold and wet down here... hate the cold!!!

The upper and lower trailing arms were from a VS commodore, and after working out that the upper ones weren't long enough I made the inner part on a lathe with High Tensile steel thread on the inner to make it adjustable. I cut the original upper trailing arms in half and then welded in all of the pieces together. This gave me the original bushes which can now be replaced easily if needed.
Hope this answers your question.
It was a long 12 months when I couldn't work on the ute... So happy to be back at it again, so I know what you are going through.

Cheers
JB

Pete,

I have sent the box away to you today. You should have it in the next 3 days or so. I think the bolts will need to be a little larger than I described in the note... Let me know what you think.

Question for anyone...

I need to mount the clutch master cylinder inside the firewall, and  the first attempt that i had was very crude to say the least. Is there anyone that specialises in this sort of application that I can look at and get a set up working behind the instrument cluster?

Cheers
JB

I ran a toyota corona one very tiny or what about a cable from a falcon manual??


I have a few ideas for one should be pretty easy just make a 90 degree pivot on a plate with cylinder bolted onto bracket ill draw a mud map tommorow PM me your email and home and ill send a pic i can cut your pivot arm and bracket no charge just to try it out...




Pete

JB take a look under the dash of a 1980 something BMW at the wreckers when these cars were made in the factory from  left to right hand drive they had cross over mechanical linkages to operate the brakes they would be easy to adapt to your pedal to give you a side ways mount for a  under dash master cylinder  they contain  hyme joints and clevis yolks and direction change linkages all the things you need .....FC427......

(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii234/FC427/IMG_1619.jpg)[/img]

Not the best picture  but .....This is my set up I made for the Rod you could also do some thing similar hope it helps

What about toyota hiace van what clutch set up do they run i know they run a side ways mount set up for the brake?

Thanks guys, all of the ideas are well worth looking into.

Pete, my email address is jhblanchard@live.com

My address will get to you in about 3 days  ;D ;D

Just let me know what I owe you and will transfer it into your account.

Cheers,
JB

JB

I don't know if these pics help at all. They are from my son's 180sx drift car build, reverse clutch mechanism and he installed a remote resevoir.

(http://s1.postimage.org/1jxn2p7r8/15052010302.jpg) ($2)

(http://s1.postimage.org/1jxs1b98k/23052010309.jpg) ($2)

(http://s1.postimage.org/1jxtoulqc/23052010310.jpg) ($2)

(http://s1.postimage.org/1jxvcdy84/23052010311.jpg) ($2)

(http://s1.postimage.org/1jxyngn7o/23052010312.jpg) ($2)

(http://s1.postimage.org/1jy1yjc78/23052010313.jpg) ($2)

(http://s1.postimage.org/1jy3m2op0/23052010316.jpg) ($2)


regards

Weddo

Have you thought of mounting them under the car and have the pedal arms going through the floor?

Thanks Scotty,

Have thought of it but only briefly as I had a little trouble with water into the cab of the van that I couldn't find, and it really pissed me off. So this time I definitely want it water proof and should be able to sort the problem out behind the dash.

Cheers
JB

Haven't had a chance to get to BMW for the clutch bits but it's high on the list!!

Hard to get motivated in the cold but decided that I needed a stool for the shed to sit on and would help with the handbrake stuff I want to do next.
Which leads to a question for the pro's
Handbrake cable and the best way to run one.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03897.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03901.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03903.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03841.jpg)


The original handbrake mount fits fine, and I have to thread the cable through the upper and lower trailing arms as shown.

What is the tightest bend in the cable that can be made with it still being effective?

I am looking at making a mount on the lower trailing arm to locate this end and then either having a floating mount maybe on the body for the support of the rest of the cable. You can see the floating plastic mount in the second photo.

Maybe when I get the cable shortened then it wont need mounting on the body, just have the forward and rear mount to make it work.

Cheers
JB

Gidday Jase, I used a standard VS Commodore hand brake cable matched up to a Hyundai Excel hand brake mechanism, works well. Have a look at my build under My New Project. That,s a mighty fine birds nest of wiring under your ute, are you sure ther's not a couple of plovers under there ,I hear they are nesting this time of the year! ;D ;D ;D
Cheers , Jack

I am glad to say that the birds nest is now safely tucked away... In an Esky at the moment as I had no other space to put the left over cables.

I have both ends of the brake cable sorted, original VT to VS diff end, but I only have a small connection between the 2 for the cable, so was after the best way to do it without pinching the cable now or further down the track.

At the moment I am thinking about a bracket on the lower trailing arm for the spring end and then having a look at if the cable needs supporting in the middle somewhere.

Cheers
JB

WOW !! Jase you have been busy.
    i just went for a quick flick through your thread from where i last left it... i havent been on for awhile, had a few family issues interstate to tend to and have been kinda in a spin since..i've only just sort of been back on here and checked your thread out like i mentioned, i will need to go back and read and look at all the new pics and info...it looks great, plenty of skill and learning im sure  ( for all of us really )

thankx for taking the time to post so many pics and sharing your journey with us all, im sure we all enjoy such a big project look skilled and easy, along with its dramas here and there to bring out the best in you

keep it up, thankx once again

" Have a Great ( FE ) Holden Day !!! " :):):)

FE 4 ME

P.S. If you need a full Complete Parts catalogue ( 1948 to 1967 ) im selling them DIRT CHEAP to raise money for the local FE/FC Club QLD
Refer to my thread in Reproduction Parts for more info..which goes for everyone i guess

FE 4 ME,

Started wondering what parts I could actually use out of the catalog now... All I have left really is the shell, doors, bonnet, grill, lights and indicators. Internally I have the air vent and the wiper arms, the sun visors and door handles. Thats about it really. But the most important part I guess is the chassis number and ID Tag, the heart of the car!  ;D ;D ;D

Cheers
JB

No probs at all Jase, .............if you need the rare part number give me a yell or im sure Ken "The Guru " will always give us all a helping hand

as long as the heart is in the right place !!!   ;)

"Have A Great ( FE ) Holden Day !!!" :):):)

FE 4 ME

Had a small play with the handbrake set up tonight, had some cables made and the ends were smaller than the originals so had to modify the mounts above the tailshaft, also made the mount for the lower trailing arm on one side. This all went well until I got underneath and worked out that I was out by a mere 200mm on the cables... ouch! Well words to that effect. Here are some shots.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03904.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03906.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03907.jpg)


Will do the other side tomorrow and then weld the bracket back on that is above the tailshaft. Next will be the coil over shocks to finish the rear end and get rid of the solid mounts that I have in place now.

Cheers
JB

It's funny how even something small can give you some satisfaction...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03910.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03911.jpg)

I have a handbrake.  ;D

Nice work JB. Better hurry up and finish it, i know of a van screamin out for modification when you're done  ;D ;D ;D

Gonna sell it to me then??  :P :P :P ;D ;D ;D

Hey JB
met you today at breakfast with Lowey.
just had to join up to say you've done brilliant work with this thing. I cant wait to see it finished.

I was also thinking about your idea for the housing for the front speakers. As I was a stereo installer previously I think if you were to put the mid bass speakers in a small housing such as a headlamp or similiar you will lose lower end frequency response from the speaker. The speakers were designed to play in a door cavity or something of similar size just like a sub is designed to play in a certain sized box.
A sealed enclosure for them is however a great idea. The size of such could be determined by using a computer program with the speaker parameters. Or you could ask the Focal distributer in Australia. he's a great bloke and i'm sure would be more than happy to help if you were using one of his speakers. I guess the appropriate size would be somewhat like 3 to 6 litres, probably the larger the better.
If you were to use the three way system the mid range speakers would not need to be housed in such a large enclosure at all as the frequency range they play is much higher.

Thanks Nick,

The mounting of the mid range has been a problem, for me the specifics of the brochure that I have says that for an enclosed box the mid range woofer needs to have a 30litre box... not exactly sure how this is going to fit on the inside of the FE guards though.. so have shelved it for the moment and let it fester in the back of the brain box for a little while. May have to make something out of metal that will fit and give something close to the size required.

Cheers
JB

It's funny how even something small can give you some satisfaction...

Someone once said this to me  :P

Hey, you are doing well. Ive been stripping the boot and doing some more on the taxi. The cold weather makes it hard to start any painting though.

Managed to get a couple of days off to get some work done on the ute today and tomorrow.

Pulled the engine out with the help of my brother, then got into the sump.

2 sumps into 1...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03917.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03918.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03919.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03920.jpg)


Have to twist the dipstick hole a little, then can weld it all together, so hopefully done tomorrow.

Any ideas on the best way to modify the oil pick up, I have to basically take the pipe directly above where it picks up from the sump.

It looks like they have used brass to join the ends and the clip that ties it to the end caps.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03921.jpg)

More of the sump, now completed... Have solved the oil pick up problem as well. "T" section to go to new position. Old mount still remains and block off the end after cutting in front of the mount. Just need a plumber with an oxy now who can brass it up for me.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03922.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03924.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03925.jpg)


Cheers
JB

Great skills ..... as usual

great work

Jason have you done this before ? you sure have put some work into it ( and hours ) the engineering and welding is impressive, as much as makes me feel how limited i am in my welding skills...but most of all inspirational to see and understand that it can be done

this is one of the well informative and detailed build by post on here

doin n keep up the great work, anytime you're in QLD and want some work to do, i'll supply the beer   ;) ;D ;D ;) ::) ???

just let me know in advance and i will search for a V8 Donor car   :P :P :P

good onya mate !!!


"Have A Great Holden ( FE-V8 ) Day !!!" :):):)


FE 4 ME

JB

Thanks for the update.

I am still amazed at how you have shoe horned everything in.

Your welding skills are extraordinary.

Keep the updates coming.

I must throw a few more photos of my progress as well. Got a alloy tank manufactured from scratch off my own drawings.

Just trying to fit it into the boot. I have made it so that I can run the exhaust either side if the fuel tank.

Cheers
Craig D

Shoe horn is correct, but the method is if it doesn't fit, modify something to make it fit!

More mods done today... Oil pick up cut to length.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03926.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03927.jpg)

Then I managed to lower the radiator a little, and put some caps in for it to sit on. Cleaned up some welds that I couldn't get to because of the engine and accessories.

I now have to work our a way of making a style of access for the back of the engine to be able to adjust the timing, and re work the firewall as I am not happy with it at all.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03929.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03931.jpg)

My brother leak tested the sump for me today and found about 12 pinholes so more welding on that tomorrow, and hopefully get the oil pick up brassed.

Bit by bit.

Cheers
JB

Good stuff JB, it's all the little mods that take the time but the end result makes it all worthwhile. Keep up the good work. Cheers Jack.

Thanks Jack.... Where are your photo's????

Re welded the sump... No leaks  :o :o Happy days!!

 

The way your going ill have to finish your overflow/washer bottle soon.
 ;D

Pete

Great work. Yes, Pete, we are all starting to come outa winter hybernation, even a lazy prick like me, after slopping around in mud putting a new excavator track on, I started stripping crapo down. The Fev is really making me feel that I gotta get going again!

Thanks guys, I still have a little way to go before I will need the washer/overflow in anger Pete. i have a basic idea now on what I want to do with the firewall, just have to see if I can do it with the limited tools and skills of bodyworking. Then some fuel lines and some brake lines after that.

Cheers
JB

Got a little done before I have to go to work today...

Removed the industrial bits, and made a new piece to fit. Still have to massage a few areas but looks a little different than before.


(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03934.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03933.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03935.jpg)

Jase, what's your concern? I have no doubt that what you visualize you can turn into anything, rebuild is going along nicely,

Cheers Brett

Started to put the firewall back together, but ran out of time to finish... Hopefully in the next few days.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03937.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03938.jpg)

Finished... Am happy with the way it turned out.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03940.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03939.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03941.jpg)

JB

Nice result. You would have to be happy with the outcome.

Cheers

Craig

looking good JB.

I remember when I did my recess I got a rear cut of a wagon roof then used the back section inside out.


Cheers

Ed
 

An old Hot Rod trick was to cut back a wheel barrow to use for a firewall section 1" , 2" , 3" , 4" firewall recess just trim and fit ......FC427.....

I think that I would have looked at the wheelbarrow trick if I knew LOL, may have made it a little easier.

Cheers
JB

great idea but i would have to repair the rust in the wheel barrow first  ;D

hehehe and the typical dents   ;D

you're doin a great job JB

you're well and truly over the hump.....  I'm sure we're all enjoying reading this journey


FE 4 ME

Just been collecting ideas... thought I would visit Hawaii...Interesting vehicles here.

A couple for 4Hammers as well!

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/IMG_0511.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/IMG_0512.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/IMG_0535.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/IMG_0520.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/IMG_0521.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/IMG_0536.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/IMG_0518.jpg)

Had to include the hire car. See what else i can dig up over here.

Cheers
JB

Working holiday Jason?

No mate, just a well deserved break... Going to be a bit more movement on the car when I get home though. Have some extra play money allocated...  ;D ;D

Maaaaaaaate!
Love your work :) Cheers for the Splitty pics...I dig that ute, but LOVE that camper....very rare bus...I love the campers :)

Keep those pics coming mate...always regret not buying your pano :(

Robbie J

p.s. BTW, what is the "Respect" thing under our avatars? Should not the mighty 4hammers be redlining in the Rescpect meter?? lol

There you go respect plus 1...  ;D ;D I did see another tonight but it was too dark for photos mate!

I'm glad you didn't buy the pano.....................

I'm glad with either one of you owning it... It went to a good home!!

I am glead I didn't buy I would have sexed myself crosseyed. Not as much privacy in a wagon.

Just need more curtains Freddy!!  ;D ;D ;D

Hope all is well in the Ville!

Cheers JB

Some more interesting stuff... Got some wood here as well!

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/IMG_1198.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/IMG_1200.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/IMG_1587.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/IMG_0959.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/IMG_0766.jpg)


Hope you like something different.

can you post photos off engine in place and off steering rake and motor so i now what im looking at when extractors are ready to make thanks you can call me 0418319593

Managed to get the steering done the other day, Cory did a fantastic job!!!

New fuel lines run today on the donk! Hopefully engine in tomorrow or thursday to get the extractors done..

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0540.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0538.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0539.jpg)

JB yet again thankx for taking the time to post these pics and info

great work

FE 4 ME

G'Day JB. Doing a good job mate. Don't want to put a damper on your work but my engineer wants at least 15 to 20 mm clearance on steering and extractor components. I told him he is dreaming as some of the production vehicles have far less. Will see how it goes when i get there. In the day 10 mm was all that was required. Just looking at your steering and it looks like you will be pushing even that clearance. May pay to check with your engineer before you go any further.
Keep up the good work.
Brett

Thanks Brett,

My engineer is a 10mm bloke... Today I have had the front end out to modify it a little, and while it was out smoothed the gap between the steering arm and the sub frame.

The engine is now in and will go to get the extractors made hopefully Thursday.

Haven't seen any snaps of yours lately.. Where you up to with it?

Cheers
JB

JB,
Got the car back from the trimmers last week. Had to wait for some black windlace from the states so he could put the roof lining in. Also had the front and rear screens put in at the same time. Starting to look completed. Have to do a little bit of internal wiring and then it goes back to the trimmers as he wants to install the front and rear seats and carpet. I think he wants to be a part of the completed project. Can't complain as he is going the extra mile for me. Will get some photo's up shortly but as you know shortly could be longer. Not sure where you are located but i have an unbelievable exhaust bloke that did two lots of extractors for me both within two days and very reasonably priced. (I wasn't happy where the motor was positioned the first time). He is located in geelong..
Let me know if you want his number. Regards brett

I have a guy in Coburg that is doing them for me, but thanks for the offer... Said that it will take about a week to do, but thats ok with me. So hopefully some finished photos up in about a week.

Cheers
JB

Some more progress...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03945.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03948.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03946.jpg)

As of this morning they have just been tacked up but most likely done by now. Should have the car back next Thursday after the Jet Hot Coating has been applied.

Can wait to hear this thing run!  ;D

Looking good JB!

I dont suppose they come out unless the engine is pulled?

get rid of the std rocker gear.. I kept breaking bridges, they are extremely weak.

Cheers

Ed

Thanks Ed,

They are being designed to come out, the drivers will come out after the steering has been removed.

Rockers are being looked at when the engine gets the new cam in it as well as a new set of seals.

Cheers,
JB

JB

Nice work. I'm with you regarding heering the sound.

Make sure you upload from UTube so we can all hear it.

Cheers

Craig D

Gidday JB,
               Managed to get my motor running last week, there's nothing like a running motor to get you motivated again!. I'm glad I've finally got past the wiring stage. I hope you get a kick out of seeing your motor running like I did. Keep up the good work. Cheers, Jack

all your hard work is coming close to hearing that sweet noise...enjoy the pay off JB..... good work

enjoy


FE 4 ME

Good stuff JB. I agree post the "noise" on you tube so we can all hear it.

Regards

Wayne B

Gotta love it when new stuff starts arriving!!

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03953.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03954.jpg)

Thanks to Paul from Ireland for selling me his plates, I think that they will look great on the ute!!!

Pick it back up on Tuesday from the exhaust place... and in the mean time had a win with HSV who sent me a copy of the wiring diagrams for the ISS (HSV security) to hopefully be able to start the engine. Youtube to follow for that day!

Cheers
JB

sounds like the 365 day countdown is coming close to an end... always good when you getting ready to put the cream  on top....

good to see all that hard work is paying off and close to the glory


good stuff JB


FE 4 ME

yes when you start buying amps and stuff like that, it must mean that your nearly "on the edge of glory".  ;D

Finally got he ute back after the extractors were done.. in between showers...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03955.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03956.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03958.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03959.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03962.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03963.jpg)

Have the spare set of pipes for after rego to go out of the side as well... Time to start putting it together to make some noise.  ;D ;D ;D

Don't start it  :o you will take all that bling off the pipes. :D

Wow, those pipes are nicely sculptured JB, good to see it coming together after all the hard work

Gary

Nice work JB, will be a great foot warmer in winter too!

Cheers

Ed

Your work keeps raising the bar mate, congrats on the build, hanging to see and hear this beast

Cheers Brett

Well, the wiring contains no smoke...

Fuel pump works...

instrument cluster has power and telling me there isn't much fuel so the body control module is working...

Key to open doors is contacting relays so thats good...

Fuel injection on engine showing signs of life...

So what wire have I left out to not make the engine turn over when I hit the key??? That was midnight last night... Bugger

Try again today... Hopefully with some noise!

Inhibitor switch? just a thought Jason

Thought it had been 3 years, but looking back at the original post its been 2 1/2 instead. Actual time on the build has been 18 months so far.... Hope you like it, just click on the picture for the video.
Many thanks to my brother Dino who has helped me greatly along the way.
Just tap on the picture for the video...
Cheers
JB
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/th_MOV03971.jpg) ($2)

Forgot to add that after all of the months of wiring there only seems to be a short somewhere in the park lamps, as the fuse blew twice, and the alternator isn't charging. Need to get it checked. Even the ABS unit is making some noises! So all in all happy days so far.

Cheers

Well done  ;D you must be pleased it's a goer! Sounds great.    Dave

Just watched the video, fantastic work looks good sounds great. Will you be pulling it all down for the respray.
regards Jim

Outstanding achievement, you might be able to shout yourself a couple of drinks tonight, truly mind blowing. Congratulations.

Regards

Wayne b

Wow, just watched the video, sounds great Jason. Well done!

Well done Jason,huge achievement to get it to this stage. ;)

Congrats JB on reaching that milestone... project is looking very impressive.

Cheers

Ed

It's always most satisfying to get them running, great work.
Cheers
Deano

JB you must be cheering... and had a few beers the night you 1st heard that sweet sensation come alive

kickn' it !!!

thankx for updating us all JB... it's become a log in inspiration each time i check out your thread


" Have A Great Holden ( FE V8 ) Day !!!" :):):)


FE 4 ME

Well nearlly done JB
If bloody workers would stop taking sickies i would get yours and my bits done quicker.
(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/2011-10-11052133.jpg)
(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/2011-10-11052119.jpg)

Will come up a treat once done i cant take credit for this one i palmed it off to one of my boys.
Too much paperwork to do i wish i was back on the tools permanent.

They look very flash Pete!! Can't wait to fit them.

Jim, yes it all comes apart again after this to get the engine done, sandblast and then sprayed before final fit up. Hopefully not scratching any new paint along the way!

Thanks for all of the words of support along the way, it doesn't go unnoticed, and helps keep me motivated, and shows I am not boring you all with inane pictures... well maybe a little.

Cheers
JB

Yes JB keep up the good work. Mine is going back to the exhaust place this week to take the bark out of it and to quieten it up a little.
Regards brett

Another eventful day... Someone backed into the ML500, he is uninsured.

But got a little further along.. The alternator is stuffed and need a new one.

But on the positive side I got one shocker fitted today, after drilling the correct size hole and making a plate for the lower trailing arm to fit the coil over.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03972.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03976.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03975.jpg)

Are they AVO shocks  to match the front if so where did you get them from ..

Also i was hoping to get your tank sent but i had the wrong bloody soap at home so ill get little champ to polish it tommorow..

Fits nice just gotta tap the mounting holes i left the nipple in the filler neck on the coolant tank use that as your overflow instead of dribbling it into the engine bay.

(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/2011-10-11184707.jpg)
(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/2011-10-11184638.jpg)

That looks the goods Pete!!!! Did the washer pump fit ok?

The shocks are QA1 with 18 pre load settings. I bought them from McDonald Bros in Thomastown, Vic. With 250lb/inch springs, however he said if they needed changing they will exchange for free (springs that is) $770 for the pair.

Thanks for the awesome job!

Cheers
JB

This build is boring me to tears, don't you have something better to do with your time. Just finish the thing and stop wasting our time with your inane updates, and rubbing our noses in our own inabilities and lack of enthusiasm to complete our own projects, not to mention lack of funds.











Cheers Scotty  ;) ;) ;D ;D

Cheers i will give them a call ..

Have been trying to get the same as the front but they are hard to find.


Pete

Got the second shock done today, the alternator was dead, got it tested to prove it was stuffed so got a new one. Hooked the new one\ up and the battery is still not charging... looking at the wiring diagram the wires are hooked up correctly.

Any suggestions where to look from here??? Someone suggested that the new one needs exciting, not really sure what that means.

If not, time for an auto elec

Thanks
JB

Some Alternators need to be excited  before they will charge [ not sure if this is the case in your instance] They are hooked up  with a positive wire from the ignition circuit to a terminal on the alternator  not the power out terminal ......FC427......

JB

Doesn't that sound great. ;D ;D ;D

Thanks for the updates. Keeps me going as well. I am at the paint stage so looking to put it all back togtehr befroe Christmas.

The long road seems to be winding to an end for you.

Keep the updates coming.

Cheers

Craig D

JB,

this may help with the exciter.
http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,11884.0.html
http://www.ozrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16980&hilit=alternator+exciter
Cheers

Ed

if your alternator is a standard commodore one, youll find a 2 pin plug on it, one wire will go to the battery terminal and is for reading the battery voltage, it should be connected to the BATTERY, if you put it on the terminal on the alternator from the Battery it wont pick up the voltage drop in the cables and battery voltage will be down under the 13.8-14.2 range.

the other terminal is for ignition to turn on the alternator, it usually runs through a light globe, positive fron the ignition goes to one side of the bulb and the other side of the bulb goes to the alternator, when the alternator isnt spinning the terminal goes to ground so the light turns on showing that the alternator isnt charging, once you start the car and the alternator is in working condition that terminal goes to a positive output so there is positive on both sides of the bulb so it goes out. when you turn on the ignition the bulb lights putting a positive on the pin and that excites the alt to start charging when it spins.

Both of these wires must be connected for the alternator to work, if you dont want to run the globe you can just use a ignition on positive. if you also want to test it on the car its ok to connect positives to the pins and you wont harm anything, youll also here the alternator whistle faintly when the motor isnt running and you have powered up the alternator correctly.

Thanks for the replies guys, and Nick for the details specific to the commodore, I have the 2 pins on the alternator, and when the ignition is on I can get the battery voltage registering on one side but nothing registers on the other side... Will have to chase down that wire to see if its also on the battery. Let you know how I go.

Thanks
JB

if your using commodore wiring i think it should be the same for most models, the white wire on the plug is to the battery and the brown should be light/ignition on.

Yep, found the problem... White was to earth, not to battery. Will sort it tomorrow and let you know how I go.
Cheers
JB

Bingo!! Thanks boys... Have 14.20v at the battery now.

Now to tidy up some stuff before pulling it all down for a sandblast.

JB

you must be happy now JB!, thanks Nick for de-mystifying the exciter circuit! it all makes sense now.

Very happy Ed, but can't rest... All apart now 4 months to put in the wiring harness and 30 minutes to take out! Most of the engine apart already but work has got in the way again, hopefully sandblasted in a couple of weeks, then to the fabricator for metal work.

Cheers
JB

Jason join in the strikes and you will have lots of time

Not with the RAT... I have a star on the tail, we are not in negotiations at the moment... Give it 18 months though we will see LOL

Tanks will leave today.

Just trim tabs back to suit also pilot hole drilled thru doubler block on the side of tank so you can drill and tap your preffered thread.
(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/2011-10-20085003.jpg)

(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/2011-10-20084954.jpg)

How good is this!! Thanks Pete-(fchoon)

Love the work and it fits perfectly! Will hide the cables and fill a little gap.

Cheers
JB

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_2195.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_2196.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_2198.jpg)

Snug as a bug in a rug. Very cool. 8)

Regards

Wayne b

Looks good


Dunno if i have enough motivation to make myself one.

LOL

Had a look at the ride height after placing it back on the ground.

Now it all comes apart..

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03978.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03980.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03985.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03986.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03988.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03993.jpg)

Sandblasting next!!  ;D

If I get mine together once I will be happy, youre going to do it twice. It does look the part. Whats the colour scheme again?

Regards

Wayne b

Think I am going to keep the scheme under wraps for the moment... but will be a single colour.

Can't get the engine in without scratching the paint so will put it in the clip first and then install.

Thats the plan anyway.

Cheers
JB

JB

Exciting times. Everything is looking great.

Can't wait for the paint.

Regards

Craig D

 ;D

 :D

 :o

thankx for posting your journey JB i often come here with hope you have new updates

its looking great JB

" Have A Great Holden ( FE V8 Nearly Finished Ute ) Day !!!" :):):)



FE 4 ME

You are a braver man than me JB. I don't think I could bear to pull my car apart again after all that work!. Hope you marked all the wiring after all the hours connecting it up ;D ;D. Keep up the good work, hope it all goes back together again ok. Cheers, Jack.

So JB when's your next project starting.... I'll source the V8 and FE if you're looking for something to do   ;)

mind you i can wait a week or 2 to let you enjoy and saviour   your FE Ute first   ;D

great work

"Have A Great Holden ( FE ) Day !!!" :):):)

FE 4 ME

One thing is for sure that it wont go back together the same way it came apart.

We are hoping that it does go back the same as it came out, as we couldn't get the engine in with the subframe mounted and not touch the paint work. So even if it takes us hours to line up it will be better than scratching fresh paintwork.

Guess we will wait and see.  :o

Cheers
Jb

Slowly does it now... all comes down to $$$$

Off to the blasters, engine went in yesterday to get a cam and some roller rockers, double valve springs etc...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03994.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03995.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03996.jpg)

Dog still enthusiastic.  ;D

Different car in about a weeks time...

Hanging to see it in paint, JB

Cheers Brett

Haven't heard much from you lately Jase, must be working hard on your FE and have no time for updates.

I wish I was working on it mate! Haven't seen or heard about it since I took the car to be sandblasted. Said they were closing up for Xmas and New Years. So nothing to show you in a month... Big time withdrawal symptoms! I did get 2 polished aluminum caps for the overflow/washer bottle and that's it.
Same with the engine, still no news since before Chrissy.
Hoping to have it all back by the end of the month.
Cheers
JB

News from the blaster... Early next week.

No longer have a blue car.. Few surprises but not as many as I thought may turn up.

Pick the car up on Saturday, but here are a few action snaps.

Cheers
JB

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0137.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0138.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0139.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0140.jpg)

JB

At least you know how it all goes back together.   ;) ;)
Cheers

Craig D

looks great JB

Now let the fun begin.
JB if you keep the updates coming all the way up to the completion you will be looking at in excess of 50 pages of this rebuild.
   
  I hope you keep all the fully in depth rebuild updates coming so that the potential modifiers and restorers out there can appreciate how much work goes into building one of these cars. And if you decide to sell the ute one day and you put a 75k price tag on it people can appreciate why such a high price.

Thanks guys,

Can't say that I have any plans to sell it!! Miss the Van...

The mongrel that sold me this did some real shoddy work, now I have to fix it!!!

The real truth below...

Got to love all of the brass that they have put into it, Even cover the hole for the upper screw in the guards with dollops of brass bothe sides..


(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04002.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04005.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04007.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03999.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03998.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03997.jpg)

That isn't too scarry Jason, bit of time (and money)  Will be the ducks guts when its finished . Any news with the motor?

Stopped the motor for now to get the panel work happening... Will hit the go button when I obtain more money.
Want to buy a motorbike?
Cheers
JB

Looking good JB, keep up the good work  ;) and the updates

ute is looking good JB.

That previous work is ordinary but at least its all there. that sill repair is just lazy!

you should be done in no time.

Cheers

Ed

Hi JB,

The ute is looking good, how long till we can see it in colour not black & white  ;)

Dean.

Realistically it probably won't be painted till after mid year. Panels and gaps get done in March, then am going to get inside and engine bay painted. Engine after that as I put it on hold to get the fabrication done. Then put it all back together getting it all running again before the panels get painted... Well that's the plan I have in my head at the moment.
Have to choose a colour as well... Been through about 4 so far, and still undecided. Want something I haven't seen on an Fe/Fc ute before... Any suggestions??  ;D

I still like the bluey colours.  There is a subaru forester and Vr commodore colour that is blue but is deep purply blue that i think would suite but I've hardly seen it. Only 1 Fe or fc comes close but I'd need to find it. It's hard isn't it but I'm thinking about in 20 years time people will want originals more and more so if the original colour is close then go that way but you need to half like it first. The problem is that each persons taste changes over the years. I'm starting to respect the cars more for their age and significance.

Chrysler Wildberry :D :D

if you want a really dark blue, Mazda storm blue is a good one, it looks almost black at some angles, it's off the later model 3&6 ranges. Or you could be daring and just use the original colours.
Regards Jim

I know it is a F@%D colour but I really like their new orange. If my car hadn't been painted when I bought it all those years ago I would be tempted to go orange.
Cheers
Neil

Nice progress.
How about candy coke.
Regards
Alex

satin gold / champagne with a 2 shade darker alternate colour in gloss with a light flake.

All good ideas... I started out with a 2 tone idea, and hence the early photos with a black spray paint down the side of the car, then went from that to a burnt orange like on the BMW 1 M series, I saw some champagne colours at the International car show at Melbourne with a Land Rover sporting a Nara Bronze colour that I liked as well... There was also the beige coloured ute that was on here a few months ago at the speed shop which looked the goods... But after the states titles where adobe biege is fairly common it was not for me.
I also saw a new VW R32 with a really nice blue that was not light, but not super dark that I liked... May still be in the mix.
And yes Glenn I had thought of the Wildberry again to make a pidgeon pair as I haven't seen a ute in this colour either, but maybe a different shade.

The van was easy I walked into the car lot saw the colour and said yep thats it... didn't waver once. I have swapped and changed that many times now I really don't know which way I will go.

Nearly driving me as crazy as when i did the wiring!!!

JB
Are you sure you will be ready for the 2014 Nat's ?? You need to change the thread name to 365 days...... and some. The ute is looking the business and I would expect any colour you finally choose will look great, after all the Van looked and still looks great. I like a nice dark but not to dark metalic green.

Cheers Jim

Now we are getting there. Look up the vw scirocco r latest sports car model. It is similar to that other blue and like the substitute liberty blue. Funny cos I'd only do a one tone Fe in that but not s fc. Also if you Google "Fe holden" and click images you will see that purply blue Fe. Those colours are way different to your old ute blue. The shade of blue makes a huge difference hey. Similar to when you get greens wrong.

What about "perfect blue".   New Holden colour it's nice  ;D ;D Dave

I did actually try to change the name to 3 years and 65 days... But it wouldn't change for all of the posts, so I left it as it stood. 😊

JB,

When I had my FJ ute it was painted a really clean white :o. The chrome stood out & it was different.

Dean.

Preparing to take the car to the fabricator...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04009.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04010.jpg)

The brake pedal is lower than the clutch pedal... is this normal or are they meant to be at the same level. I am thinking the same and i need to change the position of the brake.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04008.jpg)

Bring on the noise!!!  ;D ;D ;D

So the guards needed to be fitted next, I had drilled out the original fastening position as the either had rusted or been butchered and decided to fit rivnuts.

At $121 for the tool I decided to make one myself from one on the internet.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04011.jpg)

Rivnut

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04013.jpg)

Need to make some sort of bracket to clamp the rivnut down, just need a piece of steel that has the same diametre as the bolt you are going to use. Mine was 8mm and the tool for the grinder had a nice little hole that i made a little bit bigger.

From there I drilled and inserted the rivnut into the subframe, and with another bolt, nut and washer it looks like this.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04014.jpg)

May be hard to see but the nut has a corner marked to count the rotations for fitment.

With the clamp fastened down... just for ease, you can hold it if need be. Hold t he bolt steady with a rachet or spanner and turned the bolt 3 complete turns to pinch the rivnut into place.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04015.jpg)

Back off the nut and take out the bolt and here is the finished product... a little blurry sorry.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04016.jpg)

Then the guard went on, and because the engine wasn't in I could see full lock.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04017.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04018.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04020.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04022.jpg)

You can see with the v6conversions front end and the vs rack that the inner wheel turns further than the outer (as it should)
So I am expecting to be able to make it round a court in one go and not scrub the tyres!  ;D

Thats it for now...

Cheers
JB

Looking good JB, you must be happy with the progress.

Dean.

Thanks for the update and ideas etc...

Cheers

Deano.

Next time send me a msg and ill send you my old one for a rental just pay the postage.


On another note for all you other nutsert lovers try to buy the Knurled ones as the plain ones tend to spin we probablly use 5000 a month in the shop all S/S our ones and we have none come back for replacement where as our oppsition use plain and we replace them all the time.

(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/prod_4641_thm_SS_Image.jpg)


Pete

Looking good JB,have you considered rolling the inside lip of your guards (even just a bit)?Hate for them to catch as you are turning into a driveway or similar.Makes a mess when they do. :-\

very good advice. I found out the hard way what happens when a front tyre catches a guard lip... just after a new paint job   :-[ :-[ :-[ ::)

Thanks for the advice guys, the wheels that are on the are 18", and I believe are a little tall for the look I am after... I am going 17x7's on the front and 17x10's on the rear, but with the engine in place the guards will still be in danger, I am looking at radiusing the guards probably by about an inch, and also either removing the lip and reinforcing or just a roll. Will let you know how I get on with the fabricator when I see him.
Cheers
JB

Finally moved again today, off to see Cory who is going to straighten it all out for me.
Hopefully have plenty of progress photos as he goes about his work.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04024.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04027.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04028.jpg)
Dog still nosing about :)

No shots of the car yet, but have been tidying the engine up ready for fitting into the car when its painted.

Glad I did as I had forgotten to do something that would have really ruined my day if i had fitted the engine to the car...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04031.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04032.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04036.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04037.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04039.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04040.jpg)

Redo the wiring next and fit to the gearbox... Will try and get some shots of the car soon.

Cheers
JB

You've done a great job getting all that to fit JB.

Cheers

Ed

Awesome looking engine JB, you'll give a few modern cars a surprise when you leave em for dead 8), those rivnuts look like a great idea do all nut and bolt mobs sell them.
                          Pedro

Thanks guys, yes Pedro I believe that they do.

Cheers

Engine finished, needs this done to fit it into...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0209-1.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04045.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04046.jpg)

JB

Getting closer every photo.

Thanks for the update.

Cheers

Craig D

One of the problems with moving the engine so far back into the car is that the gearshift lever also moves back with it... This left the changes a little awkward.

Until just the other day I didn't think that I could change this until I got the shifter down to have a look at it on the gearbox, something I hadn't seen since I pulled the car apart a number of years ago. To my surprise I had about 5 inches that i could cut out.

Here is todays end result, you can see what is was like on the previous shots. Another problem overcome. Where can I get some nylon washers and a retaining clip that I can find from the selector connection?

Next little project is to get all of the door stuff sorted..

Does anyone have a left and right quarter vents that they want to sell in excellent condition? Other option is to get a set that is not rusted to get re chromed... Mine were rotten with rust.

Cheers JB

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04047.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04048.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0215-1.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0214-1.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0213-1.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0216-1.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0217-1.jpg)


Cory has been busy fabricating  the drivers side panel today. I am glad it has come off looking at the holes that are behind the panel.

The diff comes out tomorrow to get a new centre and bearings put in.

I tried the molasses method for rust removal... awesome stuff!! bought a 5kg punnet from the live stock warehouse put half into a 20litre container and filled with water. Placed the handbrake lever into it... Has been 2 weeks now and I pulled it out today to find shiny metal! ;D ;D
Washed the dregs off and painted straight away. Didn't take any before and after photos though.

Cheers
JB

Great!

great progress JB...Nice little win with the shifter position. that panel work is fantastic.

yes please take some shots of the molasses.  Wouldn't mind a vat to dip my doors in!

Cheers

Ed

Hey Ed,

Only got the shot of the molasses bucket with some growth on the top now LOL

From what I have read you need 7:1 water:molasses so build you dip tank big enough for the parts and then fill with stuff and dip away. From what i have read on the internet the solution lasts for about 6 months. It took 2 weeks to take off surface rust, so for larger rusted areas it may take longer.

Dads mate has a bathtub next his shed he uses on rod bits also excellent for old motorbike tanks.

Pete

Hey JB, What's the best way to get a hold of molasses in bulk?

Does it come up better than sand blasting?
Cheers

Go to farmers warehouse  they feed it to horses any farm joint.


Blasting is a lot quicker but its good on delicate bits

You can get it in 20litre tubs, I only did the hand brake handle so needed only a little.

It came up a treat, apparently the molasses and water creates acid that attacks the rust, so more rusty pieces need longer.

All I can really tell you, just wanted to have a go and see what everyone had been talking about really.

Cheers
JB

Just be aware that the mix will eat away any alloy parts, and will not remove or get under any painted or greasy sections. Otherwise works great.

I have had Molasses for years to dip my parts in and it still works fine. I bought a 44 gallon drum and mixed it 50/50 with the drums i have and it worked fine, i think it works better if it is heated up. I found it didn't take as long to strip rust in summer as it does in winter. I really don't think there is a use by date. It's only sugar after all.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/f17f075e.jpg)


(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/ae97220e.jpg)


One side nearly done...

What to do when its cold an wet outside...

Sanded bottom of the tank and painted with POR15

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/photo-2.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/photo-3.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/photo-4.jpg)

Got this the other day off ebay...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/photo.png)

Gave it to Cory and he started today, should have some finished ones this arvo.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/photo-1.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/photo-6.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/photo-7.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/photo-8.jpg)

Very neat bit of welding work JB, what did you weld the panels with there doesn't seem to be any distortion at all, I don't know between you and Kathi and Jamie I'm starting to feel a bit dodgy ;) :D.
               Pedro

The panel welding isn't mine Pedro... I make straight panels warped so Cory from CJ's fabrications is doing all of the rust and gap work for me. He uses a TIG and does great work!
Should come up a treat!
 ;D  ;D

Yeah, unfortunately so do I, might have to upgrade to a TIG when I do my next project.
             Pedro

I used my cousins tig who is a fabricator and it was quiet easy, more easy I found when i got the flow going that the MIG.

Bit of an update...
Better follow up from the quarter panel first...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0268.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0270.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0271.jpg)

All lined up ready for the final weld. NOS stuff is the goods!

This is the difference between a NOS sill and a repo

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/photo-5.jpg)

You can see the curve in the NOS, which Cory grizzled about but has sorted it I believe.

The he sends me these...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0272.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0275.jpg)

I told him that he could make a little money if he wanted to make a batch of these, but I can't quite print what he said... I will work on him.

Some more of the sill work and door gaps etc...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0269.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0263.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0267.jpg)

Now onto the rotisserie to finish welding the sills

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0277.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0279.jpg)

Starting to take shape.

Cheers
JB

JB

Corey has done bloody well.

John

JB, Looking good mate. Wont be long before some paint goes onto it. Look forward to seeing it on the road.
Brett

Im inspired  :)

Hey JB, on the old quarter NS, can you send me the a cut.. lower quarter, bumper mount area?

Cheers

Ed

Hopefully Ed he hasn't thrown them away... I will ask Cory tomorrow for you if he has his phone on.

Cheers
JB

Some more sill shots, I like the way the exhaust turned out...

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0280.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0281.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0283.jpg)

That looks hot!!!
Regards
Alex

This Build is coming along so nice, neat and very tidy mods.... love that exhaust mod... nice and neat

looks great

this ute is going to win many awards ... is a must to put it in Car Mags


"Have A Great Holden ( FE ) Day !!!" :):):)

FE 4 ME

Thanks for the comments guys,

As for shows and mags the ute wont see many its not what I am about. When i did the panelvan it went to the Jindabyne nationals and that was it, no local shows or a photo for a mag, but always happy to show someone who asks and lift the bonnet. The ute will be no different. In saying that I just want to be able to get to another nationals as by the time Tassie comes about it will have been 10 years... Something always stops me from getting to them.

What I have said before all of the photos on here are to show what goes into a modified car, and when its finished a rough bill on what its cost for others to consider when/if they decide to do what I have done. Hope they are still entertaining some.

Can't wait to drive the wheels off it!!!  ;D ;D

Cheers
JB

Don't you dare tell people how much it cost.
(In case my wife looks ;D)

It is a fantastic build. There is some serious work going into those panels. Keep those photo's coming.

Regards

Wayne

I understand your motives, but Shows and Mags get what serious work and mods can look and inspire the younger generations ( and all of us ) on ol skool- new skool can include 50/60's classic curves and chrome... not plastic

just a thought... but i understand it's not a show pony, it's your classic Australian Ute with Modern technology...either way great work

FE 4 ME

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0298.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0299.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0297.jpg)

Looks fantastic JB. amazing panel work.

Cheers

Ed

Thats greatly appreciated  ;)

Right, one for the Guru's

When the panels were fitted at the factory the seems looked a little like this yes?

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04049.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC04051.jpg)

So my question is did they lead all of these gaps up or did some get left and painted like in the photos?

Current thinking is just to seem seal and look like out of the factory... If that is how they came.

Cheers
JB

The van I'm currently working on has the horizontal seam that ends just before the dogleg, which leaves the horizontal seam abruptly . 

Meaning your stepped seam would be leaded.

Doglegs I've worked on before are usually a leaded lapped joint which is comparably very crude to what you have achieved.

Im open to correction, as I know there are other variations between early FE's and later FE's and FCs with double wall dog legs etc.

Cheers

Ed

Yes I think the dog leg was leaded and the horizontal seam was left as is. You often see vans and utes with the horizontal seam disappearing into nothing.

Ken

  JB heres a pic of an original untouched dog leg on a ute i finished recently, only pic i have of this area.

cheers
Scott
(http://s18.postimage.org/62n5qchk5/100_1874.jpg) ($2)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0310.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0311.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0318.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0320.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0322.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/IMG_0325.jpg)

Still moving along nicely, just dropped the aircond unit off both sills done now, and the vent replaced with a non holey one. Door gaps getting done then a full alignment of panels to happen as it gets back on its wheel. Then to measure the offsets to order new rims.

Cheers

Awesome looking work JB, its very inspiring. Some other interesting cars in the background too, a Chevy Nomad and HK/T/G Monaro. Are they yours as well?
Regards Ole.

No mate, I can't take credit for this work. They are cars in the workshop waiting to be done.

JB