the clutch in my fc is all holden red, only problem is that it is really hard to push down,bloody murder around town!
Ive bleed the system 3 times still hard, ive noted that in the workshop manual you can change the ratio of the spring with a little lever, would this work.
clutch is all std holden red behind a red 186 to aussie 4 speed.
any help would be great and have other people had this problem?
its either get fixed or an auto goes in!!!
PS have to get it sorted as partner refuses to drive, car :P
I assume this is the one with a plastic hose which runs down to the slave cylinder mounted in the bell housing.
Basically bleeding the system wont make it any lighter, are you sure you dont have a heavy duty clutch fitted?
If you are 100% sure it is a stock clutch then all I can think of is lack of lubrication at all the moving points inside the bellhousing.
Ken
Have a look at the inside diameter of the hose just before the slave cyclinder. Over a period of time they usually swell and restrict old flow from the master cyclinder and we all know how often these little buggers get changed. Good luck.
Hi fc4kiwi,
Is this a problem that has just developed?
It could be a number of things.
If the clutch pedal is hard to push down and slow to release then my guess would be the same as fc4me (Flexible Hose to Clutch slave Cylinder)
ACE 8)
thanks for all replys this problem has been like this for the last 6-8 months , have just done all of the above expect remove gbox. the trimatic looking good ;D
Hi fc4kiwi
You have the same setup as me so it must be like the other guys say , or it maybe where the slave cyl. is sitting. Mine uses the outside (furtherest from bellhousing) hole in the fork . this works OK as my 17 y/o daughter can drive it :-/
Norm :)
Hey fellow holden man,
have you checked that its not the pedal binding somehow? Just a thought..
Earlee
A further thought...
If the pedal IS NOT stiff when the bleed nipple is OPEN then the problem is hydraulics,
whereas..
If the pedal IS stiff when the bleed nipple is OPEN then the problem is mechanical.
Earlee.
Have just fixed the same problem in my ol gir. Went along the hydraulic hose replacement line first up and that made it a little lighter. Then I replaced the slave cylinder and that made it lighter again. But the real culprit was the master cylinder that had a swollen secondary cup. With pressure applied it was fighting against the sidewall of the cylinder as well as trying to push the fluid out. It was light and as free as when the bleeder was opened so I didn't suspect it first up.
It's worth a look as the kits aren't very expensive.
cheers,
Leigh