Good morning all
I have an issue with the accelerator the travel seems short but does engage the full throttle just that is flat and hard to the floor hard and it feels stiff to push down and when released does not come back up it needs a hand to pull it back to idle.
If I shorten the return spring won’t that Make it even harder to push down ?
I’ve just realised after a 4 year resto I’ve never actually driven an FC so I’m not sure what’s right
Any advice is appreciated
Cheers
I will leave this to others to add their piece, however, if this was my issue, I would add a drop of oil to all the moving parts on the linkage shaft on the firewall. The base of the pedal may require a "good clean" & lube. The shaft in the carby may also need attention. If the issue remains, seek further advice. [There is plenty out there!]. Kevin.
Trevor,
Disconnect the linkage at the carburettor, then take off the return spring.
The linkage should be move freely if you operate it at the pedal or from inside the engine bay.
My bet is that the crossbar is binding on something: either the firewall behind the motor, or the back of the cylinder head.
If the crossbar doesn't foul on anything as it moves, then check the linkages below the steering column (?). There's a pull rod from the loud pedal to a shorter cross-shaft, then another pull rod to the main cross-bar. You could disconnect the pull-rod from the main cross-bar near no. 6 spark plug and see whether the parts on the driver's side of the car move freely.
Make certain that the speedo cable, the handbrake cable, and the wiring aren't fouling the linkages.
Hopefully all that's needed is oil at the pivots.
Rob
If you are using an old pedal assembly check that the pivot pin housing hole hasn't elongated, any wear at that point drastically effects both the smooth operation of the linkage and the amount of movement at the carbi. Doug
I agree with all written above, the pedal pivot area is prone to rust and wear, the pedal travel can be affected dramatically by a worn and bent pedal. Do you have the main return spring installed on the cross shaft?
Ken
Hi all
Thanks for the options I have had every single nut an bolt of this car at one point and the accelerator is a new one from rares
As advertised I’ll disconnect all the linkages and see them move individually to see if any thing is tight or jamming up on something
Then reconnect one at a time to see if it catches anywhere a smig of Greece might assist
Thanks for the help
Cheers
check out this thread before pullling everything apart wookie
http://fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=253012
Greece is Olive Oil , you are better with lithium grease ,trust me ,i'm half Greek ..Vern
Hi
Thanks for the thread link
My wagon was missing one so I assumed a rears would just fit and was not able to compare
I’ll check this while I’m at it on my day off
Cheers
Just an update on this issue
I finally worked out that in my haste to get it running I made short cut and changed the geometry of the actuating leave that has the 4 screws in it to the firewall I made that fit the paddle arm that was 15mm to long this in turn made the actuating arm go up past the leverage point where it would stick this in turn also put extra pressure on the accelerator causing it to flex and bend.
I returned the actuating arm to the correct geometry angle straightened the bent accelerator added the lithium Grease
All works smooth now.
Thanks to all those who offered advice
Cheers