FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

Hi Everyone.
Last weekend I had an epihany. There were just too many little things that needed fixing so I decided to pull the whole thing apart and start anew. It has had a previous restoration and I was not sure of the quality of that job so the best thing to do was do it myself. Well most of it I hope. There were too many things covered up that would come back to haunt me
I started pulling it apart this weekend and got a bit of the way through.
My idea at this stage is to get it sandblasted back to bare metal and then take if form there.

(http://s2.postimage.org/SROn9.jpg) ($2)

This is the car when I bought it last year some time.

(http://s4.postimage.org/riVzA.jpg) ($2)

Looks good on the outside. Not much rust really.

Day one of the strip down

(http://s4.postimage.org/s1s2S.jpg) ($2)
Took out the headling and was quite clean underneath.

(http://s3.postimage.org/GIVQA.jpg) ($2)

worst bit of rust that I've found so far

(http://s3.postimage.org/GJrgr.jpg) ($2)

old repair job.

(http://s4.postimage.org/s22t0.jpg) ($2)

More to come. And no doubt plenty of questions!!!!????
Nick

Hi Nick,
Chin up, I am sure a lot of other FC owners have been through the same scenario (I have). Remember they say their is light at the end of the tunnel.

Cheers Andy.

And if you can see light at the end of the tunnel you have a rusty floor!

 ::) ::) :D :D

G'day Nick, good to see another wagon, she looks almost identical to mine when i started, a lot less rust by the look of it though, hope you don't find any of the surprises i did when i had mine sandblasted.
                             Pedro

Thanks Guys
Car is in Port Macquarie  ( moved up three months ago)and I work in Sydney during the week so progress will be a bit slow especially with trying to organise the sandblasting etc.
There is one in town and one in Wauchope. I'm going to give them a ring. The Wauchope mob offers pick up and drop off... Not literally I hope.
In the vast experience that this site has what is the go with transporting the chassis. Ideally wheels off engine out etc. Just the bare frame.
Next purchase item will probably be an engine stand and a rotisserie???
I'll keep the pictures coming. Bit bigger next time.... Bigger pictures generates bigger replies. LOL  :)
Just for interest this is my other child

(http://s3.postimage.org/KdJJi.jpg) ($2)

hmmmm won't go bigger ???

I have moved body shells to the blaster on my 8 x 5 box trailer with just a few 4 x 3 under it and 4 guys to load unload it ....FC427.....

I took my ek ute to the blasters on my rotisserie on my car trailer blaster luved it for ease of doing the hard bits
regards fat

Hi Nick

If you are after a rotisserie in the near future send me a pm, we brought a brand new one the other week & fitted the van to it yesterday. All going well should be finished with it in 3 to 4 weeks time-complete with clamps to suite wagon or van.

Cheers Andy.

Andy would I be able to hire it from you in a few months after nick for my Ute rebuild live in Sydney can pick up and drop of saves me making one understand if it's not possible ...FC427....

Hi FC427

I just sent Nick a pm and I'll see what he would like to do first, when we work it out I will get in contact with you. Hopefully we can come up with an arrangement to suite us all.

Cheers Andy.

Just read all of Pedro's journey... Very Nice too Pedro!
I rang an panel shop in Wauchope today that has a blasting business too and he said that he could fit me in a couple of weeks to strip the paint off. Now I'm not so sure that that is the way to go due to panel warping etc. It is a panel shop so I may have to go and take a look at his operation first. Its just hard organising things on the phone when your in Sydney during the week.
There is a mob in Taree that say they specialise in just doing old cars! Otherwise stripper and gladwrap followed by a plastic remover disc!??? :-\ At least i can keep the costs down. He said about $800 to do the whole car.

Would you recommend I try the rust repairs myself being a novice welder??? I have a CIG tradesman's arc welder! which I think may be too powerful? What are the recommendations /suggestions ???
Andy... haven't had a chance to call but am still definitely interested in the rotisserie!!!! :)

Just tell the sandblaster not to touch the panels Nick, only around the edges, sorry but an arc welder isn't suitable for this kind of work you'll need a mig or oxy set, if you can weld with arc you'll love the mig very easy to work with and no flux just nice smooth welds.
                    Pedro

Nick,

Get a reputable sandblaster, I had asked around with some of the guys from work as I had done what Pedro suggested above, in order to avoid warped panels. I had stripped all the panels and just asked the blaster to do the edges, quote was $200.00 and I was told that I could pick the car up the following day.

10 days later I got the car back, in the meantime it had sat out in the rain and had become all rusty, I had been out on several occasions to talk to the blaster who assured me that he would fix everyhting and remove all the rust. He took on a mojor job and finished that before he got to mine. As a result I was off work, hoping top get the shell painted and significant work done on the shell while I was off.

When it was returned to me, it was all blasted, no warped panels, the blaster was very apologetic and charged the $200.00 quoted, for a first class job.

The annoyance was with the time taken, however the quality of the job was second to none.

Keith

If you can oxy weld a good cheap high frequency tig would also be good i use tig for everything
especially with the price of oxy and acetylene tig uses not much gas at all.


i use one every day which helps good control of size of welds and penetration.

Thanks for the input.
Which leads me to another question. How quickly do you need to get a coat of primer on after taking back to bare metal??? I have read that it will oxidise almost immediatley?? and it should be covered as quick as possible. Also primers absorb moisture too so It shouldn't stay on long  without a bit of a top coat
Trying to work out the order in which to do things and the timings ???
I might look around for a Tig welder. Are there major differences between models/ brands etc???
Bunnings had a few in the last time I looked and I don't think that they were too expensive.
I don't have that much rust... may pay to get someone to do that ???? Just like the idea of doing it myself.... but I 'm dead set have to do a good job if I post my progress!!!!!

Pedro.... around the tail gate where the lip is to secure the seal... what did you do to fix up the lip where you cut that section out???

My problem is I think about it too much and by the time I get home I get lost on what I'm trying to do!!!!

I also noted Pedro that you left the steering column in! Was going to pull mine out this weekend

Hi NIck  I got my whole car sand blasted, it had alot of surface rust! cost about $1000.00. It was a realy good job with no panel damage at all. You need to get primer on the car ASAP after it is blasted. I took mine straight to the fellow who painted my car and he put 2 pak primer on it. He said the 2 pak does'nt absorb moisture like normal primer, and you can put filler over it without going back to metal. Taking out the steering column is pretty easy, just need to make sure you take notes for the wiring.  Dave

It's a bit hard to take the front end off without moving the steering column Nick ;), if you look back to when mine went to the sandblasters there was nothing on the old girl at all, a mate and I lifted and slid her up on to a wooden floored car trailer, a good sandblaster will strip and prime your wagon and for around $1200.
     Pedro

Ok I have decided on a course of action after all you posts my reading and talking to a few panel beater mates.
I am going to use stripper and discs and do it myself. I am going to do bit by bit and fix up all rust in little sections as I go. I'm going to but a tig welder 150 to fix up the rust issues. Once I get a rotisserie that will be a snack.
I'm confident of using acrylic and will do it in that. and do it original colours. India Ivory and Panama red.Great combo!!!!
Keep it original as possible!
My major concern is the welding but worse comes to worse  I can get an retired mate to weld it for me, but i think i can do a good job. Can only try.  Can't wait to geet stuck into it now.. my plan is evolving. Not till easter .. Wish i was in orange though! next nationals!

Hi Nick, good on you for having a go. With the welding just practice first on some sheetmetal scraps. You'll soon get the hang of it and get to know which settings are the best for different thickness materials. Also have you thought of having the panels soda blasted? It removes all the paint , exposes any rust and leaves the panels very smooth and does not warp them. Look forward to more updates. Cheers. Jack

Hit the wrong button :P
I have Jack, and If the car was in Sydney than I would definitely go down that path, but not knowing the tradespeople up on the north coast and not having help to lift etc I thought that it would be easier doing it this way. Just little bits at a time! That idea may change as I try and strip the paint but I sort of like the idea of taking it back myself. Its therapy! Doors and tailgate first!
Nick

Hi

Just read your post and yes it is admirable that you want to do it all yourself. however if you go down the road of removing all the crud yourself and yes its going to be great therapy, but its going to take you weeks.

Doing the roof and panels by hand make beating easier down the track and no chance of damage.

I would only have the floor, firewall,sills and cargo area inside and out blasted as they are the hardest to clean. and by blasting your going to find rust where you never thought possible. Thus making the end product better.

The first job is rust and by going this way your weeks or months ahead on your build you will also save money and time, let alone the mess your going to make.

also sounds you have limited time to work on it as you commute.

Kind regards

Julius

Nick, did you read the part in my post where I started doing it by hand with the discs, I used up a couple of discs doing a small area so started calculating how many I was going to use to do the whole thing, at around $20 each, plus wire brush ones for getting into the hard to get spots it was going to cost me hundreds, plus about a about a weeks work getting filthy dirty, cut, bruised and nagged ::), easier to just hand over the money and get it back like new, if you are trying to save $ just get the shell done or even just the floor and interior that's the hardest part, and then do everything else yourself.
                           Pedro

Hi Nick
 I believe in you get what you pay for my workshop only uses the best but lately i have set tigs up for customers cheapy,s off e bay about $900 and they were AC/DC high frequency ones (can weld alloy) and i cannot fault them maybe longetivity is not so good but for use every now and then they seem great.
In comparision to a 6 grand tig they went pretty well.
But they are unreal as long as someone can give you a lesson and help with setup for first timers


Just watch strip discs on panels       rubbing = heat heat = distortion.

Pedro.... around the tail gate where the lip is to secure the seal... what did you do to fix up the lip where you cut that section out???

(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk227/Pedrosme/P1010573.jpg)

This is about the best pic. I can find, I just folded up a peice of metal to the right size and welded it in, I use the same technique of making the peice out of cardboard first.
                      Pedro

Thanks for the encouragement everyone.
Thanks for the photo Pedro. What are the small welds either side of the main weld. Are you just filling in pinholes etc. I picked up a TIG second hand and the guy who I bought it off was very helpful and gave me a good demo. He is a prefessional welder and he said the same as you fchoon. Good quality from a little machine. Don't expect to be doing too much anyway. Lots of practice though!
Julius and Jack have convinced me to look at getting the tough spots soda blasted. Have joined the holden Car club in Port Macquarie and was speaking to a member who said there is a mobile guy who will set up a tent and do it in you garage. Sounds good... I will investigate that option.
Pulled out the engine over easter weekend and front end is off again and stripping the body of parts.
Got stuck on the last bolt for the subframe on the PS wishbone. Will have another go at that on the weekend. Man some of those bolts are tight. :o Just soaked them in WD40!
Everytime you take something off you wonder if you're going to be able to remember where it came from!!!
All bagged and labels applied... even so it gets daunting!
More photos after the weekend.
Nick

Good stuff sound like fun once you master a tig you realise how much you hate grinding mig welds down.

I got the bug last week and now have a bare shell sitting in my shed keeps getting a bigger and bigger project.


Pete

I'm hearing you Nick. I have a couple of posts on those pesky bolts. Wait till you get to take the frame off. I'm still going after a couple of week ends. All good fun. Good luck.

Regards

Wayne

I read that post Wayne!! It beats me when you can turn the suckers but they still wont come out!! :P
Still ... what doesn't kill you only makes you stronger 8). Gunna get a bigger hammer ;D

What you are up against is the bolt on the inside rusting and then flaking which expands the bolts... The hole is so snug when they go in that its is a miracle to get them out again with out lots of violence... well thats what it usually takes me lol. So yes they spin very easily, but still wont come out.

Good Luck
JB

Got all the bolts out except for the PS wing which bolts through the sill section. The nut has been stripped and I think at some stage the bolt has been welded in place. So being the true mechanic that I am I got the angle grinder onto the head of the bolt and tried to push the whole thing through.
Only had a couple of hours to work due to it being my wedding anniversary ( 18)  :o and had to leave proceedings with the bolt head end just hanging on the inside hole. The subframe is being supported on Jacks and engine lifter but just won't come that extra 3mm to come off completely >:(
There was a bit more rust in the subframe than I first thought. One section that is hidden in front of the firewall on the DS has been completely eaten away. I think that it was a good move to strip it all back and get rid of all the rust.
Pictures after this weekend. Moving to the coast has meant a myriad of visitors leaving very little time for really important things! :)
The bolts on the chassis came out pretty easily after some coaxing with a lump hammer ( new favourite tool). The bolts are thicker through the mid section than they are at the thread end.???
Where do you get replacements for them????
Nick

rare spares do these there about $70
regards fatboy

Yeah they were just pinholes Nick, the metal around them was all good so I just spot welded them.
                  Pedro

Hello everyone
Not an update just yet just a number of questions
1. What is the best way to store a radiator?
2. What is the trick to installing the dust seals on the front end. I have ruined a set of covers due to catching then trying to install outer upper and lower on the front end. I did it quite a while ago and now the other dust seals in the inner arms have started to perish so I want to redo them all!
Can you just buy the dust seals???
3. I want to clean up the outside of the gearbox and put a protective coat on it. Not sure what product to use but also want to get all seals etc replaced and the inners checked out as a precaution.
What have others done and  in what order. I could easily wirebrush the outside but then what should I do to give it a nice protected surface? If I send it to a gearbox place would that dip it /clean it up
4. The same said about the engine. It's got a little leak of oil coming from the front of the engine since its been hanging off the engine hoist. So I thought that I would send it to the mechanics to give it the once over and maybe istall a better cam shaft. Then paint it up. How do you strip the outside of the engine??
5. What are the headers like that are advertised on ebay??? Has anyone used them and why were the Jack Meyers headers soo good.
I have a set of extractors and just wondering if its worth the money to "upgrade"
6. There is also a firestreak twin carby manifold for sale on ebay??? for about 300 bucks. Is it worth that???
Lastly i'm thinking of ceramic coating whatever I choose to run. cos it looks nice. Does it perform any other function other that cosmetic?

I have found that the best way to store a radiator is to cut some plywood or MDF slightly wider than the radiator, and put bolts through either side. This will protect the core from damage. also find some short lengths of radiator hose and fit a welsh plug to one end with a hose clamp to hold it in place, the other end is screwed onto the the radiator. Fill with coolant and fit the cap. This will prevent any muck in the radiator from drying out and turning into virtual concrete. When reinstalling the radiator, give it a good flush, the coolant will help clean it and it will be good to go even years later.


Take your time with the dust seals,when installing them. Also take your time to ensure that the upper and lower inner pivot pins are lined up with the control arms when you screw them in. I am not aware of being able to purchase the rubbers on their own, but I am willing to be corrected.



If you were to send it to a gearbox place they will disassemble the gearbox, put it in a hot wash to remove all dirt and oil, replace gaskets and bearings. If you were going to store it for any length of time, advise the gearbox place and when they reassemble it they should use a protective coating that will ensure that when you use the gearbox it will be as good as new



Again, if you are going to send it to get rebuilt, leave it as is and it will be all cleaned up. If you clean it up and don't send it off for some time, and it has got water into the internals it may cost you much more to have any damage repaired.

When an engine is rebuilt it is normally put in an acid bath or "pickle". When this is done this ensures that all crud is removed from water and oil galleries and leaves a clean surface in which to commence the rebuild.



The Jack Meyer headers really enabled the old grey to breathe, something that held them back with the standard manifold. Extractors also work, but may not breathe as well (depending on priomary size) and will increase the heat under the bonnet



Other twin carb manifolds will come up and will be generally cheaper, It really depends on whether you want a particular brand or whether you are just after any twin carb manifold. The more complete the manifold is, the more that you will pay. I am of the opinion that this is too dear for just a manifold. I would think that for that price you should be able to pick up a manifold with carbs and linkages that require an overhaul. Ceramic coating looks great, assists in the flow of intake and exhaust gases and helps to keep the engine bay cooler

Thanks Keith
Very Informative!

Great stuff Keith.

Regards Wayne

pretty sure i baught dust seals from american autos/rare spares in sydney

Another part update ... sort of. :(
Progress has been sporadic . I havent been to the welders supply yet and need to practice, I have been told a couple of different sized rods to get for TIG welding? Can anyone throw some light on the subject. Ive been told .8 and also 1.2 i think?
Also supposedly I get a special blend of gas ???
I tried to sort out what needed sanblasting /soda blasting and decided everything. I think that I will get new brake lines and fuel lines as the originals have got some rust in the lines and that can't be good! Should I give the brake shop the old lines and then fit them myself or take the car into a brake place and fit it ou on the car??? I know a few threads have mentioned new lines and was wondering what others have done
Are there places that will reco your rear springs or is that also something that you could attempt yourself. They are quite rusted and in need of some new bushes that fit between the leaves! The car sat well prior to being stripped so just a clean up or is it worth getting them retensioned. Just undo the nut and spread the bracket ????
What sort of prices would I be looking at to get an engine rebuild and a gearbox reconditioned??
My tail gate window section runners have quite a bit of surface rust on them. What is the best way to clean them up. They would be nice gloss black, but would scratch on the runners??
I'm seriously thinking of getting a sandblaster fo all the little things!
All help appreciated. It gets that duanting thinking about it that nothing ends up being done :P

Sorry, I can't help with the TIG


Good Idea, it will save time and you will see where you are at with rust and repairs required.


Again Good idea, if the brake lines have known rust in them, I bet there is more where you cannot see! Good to do the fuel lines as well. Unless you have the benders, and the double flare tools and are confident in doing the work yourself, get the work done, take it to the brake place and have them fit it up, this way it will all fit into the clips and sit where it is supposed to sit. Talk to the shop owner/manager and make sure that they understand exactly what you want done.



Yes there are places that do recondition leaf springs, you could get them done, however if you are happy with the way that they sat and the ride that they gave before the car was dismantled. You can take the leaves apart and clean them up and reassemble them. Essentially, as you described, you straighten the brackets enough to get the leaves apart, place a clamp on the spring, such as a "G" clamp and tighten it, before undoing the centrebolt. The Nylon spring sliders that fit in between the leaves are available from reputable suppliers, IIRC mine cast about $15.00 plus postage. Sandblasted and painted the springs will look as good as new.


Again it depends on what needs to be done, a full engine overhaul will cost between $2,000.00-3,000.00. A reconditioned gearbox is between $500.00-$750.00 depending on what it needs


If it is just surface rust then the best way to clean them up is in an electrolytic bath. I have attached a link to a website that will give you an idea to on what to do, this will save getting grit in the runners. IIRC these were originally zinc plated, but I am happy to be corrected.

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm


If you have a big enough compressor, a small blaster will save lots of time doing all the nuts and bolts etc. A good example is Fast Eddies build entitled "The Long Road" I have included a link. Also makes excellent reading.

http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,5462.0.html

Tig uses Argon as it's shielded gas about $125 for an E sized cylinder to fill and $150 a year to rent [Bastards}  , The filler wire you will need for the tig is  hi-test it is a coated filler rod to resist corrosion so as not to contaminate the weld .......FC427.......

assuming the person is right handed, (filler rod in the left hand) do you weld right to left, or left to right?

I would assume you "push" the torch, so you work into your gas rather than trail out of it.

Also can you use lengths of MIG wire as filler for TIG, and do you need pure Argon or is argoshield mix ok?

and re: brake lines, it's real easy to bend them up yourself.
for clamps I found the cheapest way is to scour them off wrecks.

Thanks Again Keith and FC427
I purchased a set of Jack Myers headers that came up on ebay
(http://s1.postimage.org/LMhQ0.jpg) ($2)
and was thinking of these to go with it
also on ebay at the moment. Not cheap $830.??


(http://s3.postimage.org/iPg19.jpg) ($2)
But for two reconditioned carbies and all the lines and linkages not too bad???

 Yes Ed ...Argoshield... thats what someone said was the go. As for wrecks???Pick and pay less???

Hi Nick,

When your comming past again drop in and I'll lone you some gas, tungsten's, wire and my old tafe books to get you started welding.

Andy

Thanks Andy
How is the rotisserie coming. I'm driving up to Port on the 17th next month.
Nick

Last weeks for the rotisserie, painted the underfloor on the weekend. Don't know why I didn't get one years ago, so it will be ready when you are.

Cheers

My back door ;D
(http://s3.postimage.org/lIqrr.jpg) ($2)

(http://s3.postimage.org/lIsWA.jpg) ($2)

(http://s4.postimage.org/5zJIA.jpg) ($2)

Is this restorable ??? The rest of the door is pretty straight :-\ I have another set of doors that I'm getting from Glenn Bryan in gympie.
If anyone can post some pictures of a similar repair I would appreciate it!
Regards
Nick

While anything is restorable if you are prepared to put in the time and effort, I wouldn't bother with doors like that unless they were made from pure unobtanium and not available any where.

I would use another door, or set of doors if you can get them

Keith

Hi Nick
They must be some special twins (gold plated) coz mine did not cost me anything near that.

Keep looking or build your own, fully recoed carb's can be purchased from extreme fuel at a very good price and all the parts to build linkages can also be purchased through various outlets.

Cheers Jim

Nick,

Would be a pretty easy fix.

Cheers

Ed


(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs247.snc1/9431_144735167431_692052431_2526406_5910489_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs267.snc1/9431_144735272431_692052431_2526408_5583774_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs267.snc1/9431_149932832431_692052431_2566482_2189027_n.jpg)

 ::) show-off!

 :P
get cracking!

here's a tip... make your rust repair panel, trace it onto your panel and then cut.. it's faster and easier that way.

told you it was easy.

Cheers

Ed

Thanks Ed
Thats a great tip 8).
I hope I can do as good a job as that :P
How do you finish off the bottom edge of the door at the drainhole where the rust has made holes ??? Spot fill them ???
Sodablaster coming on Saturday to take a look . Then off to Hastings Old Holdens show and shine to have a look and hopefully get some  leads for some local suppliers/mechanics etc
. Bought some sheet metal so hopefully some panel fabrication this weekend. Get the hammer and dolly out!

I've been thinking about por15 for the subframe, underside, diff and springs spare tyre well and tank. From all accounts I've read its a pretty good product. Is it as easy to use as they claim?
All assistance greatly appreciated as always ;D
Nick

Hey Nick,

To repair the drain hole area, fold up small bit of sheet drill a hole in it, file or die grind the shape of the opening, cut out the rust and weld in the new repair section.

when you fold do a larger piece then cut it down to the size you need.

If you have other doors coming, it wont hurt to have a go at this door, just take your time and make sure all your sections fit properly.  Aim for as little gap as possible, gaps = distortion.

POR15 is good, but it's a bit annoying to use as it takes a long time to dry, then you need to scuff off the shine or use tie coat over it to paint.. or dust in some etch primer before it's fully cured.

I used it inside, outside everything before and it added a lot of time to the job.

As a product it's pretty good, I've tested it around my house on steel out door furniture exposed to salt air too and found it to hold up very nicely provided the top coats are in good condition.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Ed

Hello all
Thanks Ed.

I get some parts back this weekend from the soda blaster and I want to POR 15 them all. I'm going to check out the process of what to do this afternoon. But essentially do you use it on external surfaces as well... bonnet doors etc.
I did some metal work on the weekend :P

(http://s4.postimage.org/rhfUS.jpg) ($2)

Not too bad. Next stage is to weld all three peices together and cut in and join the last piece after it has been soda blasted. then weld it in as a single peice. The contours of the corner are pretty well spot on as the other side.

Rust therapy!

You've done the hard bit, now zap it together.

I did use POR15 externally but wouldn't do so again, I reckon a good quality super etch primer would do the same job.

from my findings and shed analysis of rust and what causes cars to rust...

Usually you get a leak (from a window seal, badge hole or something). Water and moisture gets in behind the panel to an unprotected area and rusts thru from there.

Rust in sills and lower doors is usually caused by excessive dirt build up and blocked drain holes.

So in my opinion POR15 isn’t necessary on external surfaces.

Cheers

Ed

This is the next section that I have to attack


(http://s1.postimage.org/gG0o9.jpg) ($2)
As you can see there is some nasty cancer on the inside. I guess that when soda blasted and the with a coat of POR 15 this will be OK.
Has anyone else replaced this section?

(http://s4.postimage.org/riJc9.jpg) ($2)
Another shot of the form work. The picture shows a bigger gap than in reality.
It massages in better than that!

Nick

For the last section on the upper channel I was going to grind out the section along the gutter and then fabricate a section that goes from the lip of the channel across to the spot welds on the inside of the window frame??
(http://s2.postimage.org/aeYY0.jpg) ($2)

Nick

Nice and neat Nick, looks like you did a better job than I did, thought you said you hadn't done this before ;), yes I had to do the bottom bit too, you'll have to go back a fair way in my post to find it though.
                      Pedro

Just dreaming about it all the time!!! :P

Nice work Nick.I'd be putting some form of brace across your door gap before you take out too much more as it is really easy for the dimensions of the A>B pillars to change and this will make reinstalling your doors very difficult indeed.Keep up the pics.Jamie.

OK Its time to get back into the project!
Got a rotisserie and have mounted up the shell
(http://s4.postimage.org/2kz13ucys/Picture_012.jpg) ($2)
Took a look at the bottom of the A pillar / sill section and it is decidedly different to other similar sections that have been posted
This is mine
(http://s4.postimage.org/2l0d2ffac/Picture_013.jpg) ($2)
and this is taken from another project ( apologies to the owner for not naming the source)


(http://s4.postimage.org/2l1tzmj38/P1020777.jpg) ($2)
Mine looks completely different and am after some advice as what to do. I think that I  should cut out the crappy old repair and redo it in one section as well as fix up the gap in the leading edge of the sill. The rest of the sill is not too bad except for another old repair section at the rear wheel arch section. 


(http://s4.postimage.org/2l49n3x9g/Picture_014.jpg) ($2)
My big dilemma at the moment is do I persevere with the rust repairs, fork out for a MIG welder ( I'm retiring the TIG. Too hard) which will be about 1K or get the repairs done professionallly  (2K quote) and start from there. Personally I'd like to do the rust but am just wondering whether its more than a novice should take on! :P
Nick

Great to see you getting into it Nick ,Mate if you get the mig go down to your local industrial area and look for fabricators or engineering shops and ask can you grab some scrap metal from there bin and every chance you get practise playing around with different settings ,just run welds ,get on the internet and youtube has demo welding lessons .You have my number so dont hesitate to ring for advise.You want to be confident that you are doing the job properly ,  Practise will give you confidence to tackle your pride and joy and if you stuff some thing up just cut it out and do it again ,when you get started there will be no stopping you cheers Gary

Nick,

Just have a go, MIG welding is quite simple, once you understand the machine settings as Gary said.  If prior repairs are well done, solid and not just overlaying rusty areas then they are generally OK to leave, however if they have been done poorly then they must come out, as they are probably at the end of their life.

If you decide to get a MIG, then keep in mind, the cost of the machine will be recouped when you use it to make other things besides the car.  I use mine to fab up all kinds of stuff around the house and even tools/stands for the garage.

Nice rotisserie, despite my last statement, I'm still trying to decide if I should build one or buy one... I like the hydraulic rams of the bought ones as I mostly work alone... and the price of castor wheels makes building one not so cheap... unless anybody knows of a good place to get castor wheels cheap?  I was quoted $120/wheel from Richmond Castors.

Cheers

Ed

Next door at the scrapyard at work has a pile of big heavy duty ones you could get cheap but postage would kill you.
My mate just bought the blue ones out of the mags you see seems ok but $1200 is a bit steep.

I can cut the the brackets to mount on the bumper bar mounts i have them in the waterjet for mine.

Thanks Ed Gary and Pete
It's always good to get feedback and advice, and encouragement !!! Brackets are good. I did TIG up some mounts and they are working fine
Looks like its off to the tool shop! Keep you posted.
I'm thinking about a Lincoln 180C unit or a unit like Keith's ( Effcee)
Blok trade a day's lesson/welding for the TIG?
Nick

 :)Let me know when you get it and ill come down and spend a weekend getting you started on the right track

I sell and use migomag 190,s and 220,s very well built unit and around $1300

Lincoln is a good unit dont buy any of the ebay crap migs uni mig or CIG all the cheaper versions run  very poor transformers they are like a ticking time bomb just waiting to die ...

Hey Nick,
   just starting to check out this thread on your new project...looking at the chrome on the doors...is that a original chrome line ( rare ) or it's a personal taste that was put on before you got it...

im looking forward to reading on

have fun

FE 4 ME

Hey fe 4 me
I have been told that it is an original line and yes quite rare. Have not seen one like it.

Hopefully more updates soon :)

Looks Great ...are you guna keep the same colour tones ??

doin good

FE 4 ME

Did you go to the Hastings car show in your new wagon

Sure am... I really like the panama red and india ivory. Its a great combo I think! 8)

Hey Blok
I went to the show and shine but to tell you the truth it was a little dissapointing :(. There was not one FE/FC this year and probably about 30-40 cars in total. 4 FJ's and all with hoods down ???
Mine is getting picked up tomorrow so I'll have it next week. ;D although I do not want to get too excited as I reakon that it will not serve me as a club car as I had in mind. It will just have to wait and be a template to get the special back on the road. then maybe 1 x stocky and 1 x modified....

Got the new welder. I like it :D
started on the fender
(http://s4.postimage.org/2r7eg5yg4/Picture_023.jpg) ($2)
Had been brazed before and more rust.
Repair section.
(http://s4.postimage.org/2r7ode1es/Picture_026.jpg) ($2)

New section in and ground off.

(http://s4.postimage.org/2r8x0weqs/Picture_027.jpg) ($2)
I'm very happy with the result.


(http://s4.postimage.org/2rah967j8/Picture_030.jpg) ($2)


(http://s4.postimage.org/2rb7prrfo/Picture_033.jpg) ($2)

Which welder did you end up getting in the end?

Hi Jason
I ended up getting a Transmig 175. It was on special up here. I was going to get the lincoln 180 but the other was a great deal.
More photos to come.

Im going to get some good work out of that welder.

I knew that the front section of the sill and the bottom of the A pillar was a bit ugly. So I flipped the shell to have a good look.
Pretty ugly. The previous repairs were pretty slapstick to say the least. I could not work out what went where and i'm dreading having to fabricate it all up new again. I think that im going to replace some sill section too inner and outer.
Who do you line up the holes for the subframe and the panel. CAn you drill them in when it's all lined up / :P Any ideas
(http://s4.postimage.org/1vt3y4jxg/Picture_001.jpg) ($2)
I think that im going to replace some sill section too inner and outer
 (http://s4.postimage.org/1vv9odv50/Picture_016.jpg) ($2)
Then I started to take a look at some of the previous repairs and it just got worse.
Whoever it was had just welded over rust holes with plates. Very Dodgy to say the least. It means that I can't trust any repair that has been done before and i'm going to have to check everything.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1vyaturqc/Picture_007.jpg) ($2)
And.. Voila. look whats hidden underneath.

(http://s4.postimage.org/1w04zcnhg/Picture_008.jpg) ($2)

Floor pan just welded over hole.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1w1nk33s4/Picture_004.jpg) ($2)
Some thing is very dodgy on the other side too, check out those two bolts left of the support.

(http://s4.postimage.org/1w2e0onok/Picture_011.jpg) ($2)

Got a bit more cutting to do

The best way to keep bolt holes aligned is to make a metal jig which you drill a guide hole in BEFORE you remove the old metal. The jig is made so that it is clearly marked where it would be attached to a sound piece of the body with self tappers for instance - ie further up the A pillar. This enables you to remove all rusty steel and refabricate and then attach the jig to the car and drill a new hole.
You can spend some time making a jig like this but it is invaluable in the long run because you know that the hole is in the right spot.

Ken

Time for an update.
Got to work on the subframe this week end. Have also done some work on the sills but will wait on that until I get some new outer sills . I cut out the old repairs and the new rust coming through but there was a heap of crud in the middle of the sill that I could see but couldn't get to ... :P so I think that the best option is to remove the  outer sills and replace so that I can clean it all up .
Does anyone these days do the repo sill with the ends on them or are thay all just straight cuts.
Got to this stage , cut out the rusted rear sill and front sill drivers side

(http://s1.postimage.org/16js8iatg/DAD_227.jpg) ($2)
Rear driver side

Front drivers side with an old attempt at bracing for the subframe.
I tried to look for Ken's article on sill replacement but could not find it ???
(http://s1.postimage.org/16l0w0o5g/DAD_229.jpg) ($2)

Formed up and spot welded in the inner wall that attaches to the inner  and outer sill.
(http://s4.postimage.org/22f4fvcv8/DAD_233.jpg) ($2)
 and from the inside.
(http://s4.postimage.org/22fzv2y90/DAD_234.jpg) ($2)
As I think that I will now replace the whole sill I moved onto the subframe. I think that I need to get that all patched up so I can refit it and make sure that the repairs that I do to the A pillar will fit in properly
Started on the repair to the drivers side pillar

(http://s4.postimage.org/22i0mq7z8/Picture_022.jpg) ($2)

Top and bottom with the rust cut out

(http://s4.postimage.org/22idv0zxg/Picture_019.jpg) ($2)

(http://s4.postimage.org/22k4pg6p0/Picture_020.jpg) ($2)

(http://s4.postimage.org/22mpbjmck/DAD_180.jpg) ($2)
Formed up new sections  .
(http://s4.postimage.org/22o7wa2n8/DAD_178.jpg) ($2)

(http://s4.postimage.org/22p6mkd0k/DAD_242.jpg) ($2)
applied some weld through primer and welded them in. I then coated with red oxide paint
(http://s4.postimage.org/22qxgzjs4/DAD_244.jpg) ($2)


(http://s4.postimage.org/22ulrzbac/DAD_008.jpg) ($2)
(http://s4.postimage.org/22ttnuew4/DAD_002.jpg) ($2)
(http://s4.postimage.org/22rxut6n8/DAD_001.jpg) ($2)


(http://s4.postimage.org/22vntcan8/DAD_003.jpg) ($2)

(http://s4.postimage.org/22wt5ryzo/DAD_004.jpg) ($2)

(http://s4.postimage.org/230ft8e04/DAD_005.jpg) ($2)


(http://s4.postimage.org/23250489w/DAD_011.jpg) ($2)
Just have to patch up the raminaing sectino and that is complete.
 More soon ;D Any information on the best place to buy sills greatly appreciated and also if someone could post the link or give me some details to the sill replacement article that Ken did that too would be appreciated.
It feels good to get that section done.
Nick

Nick, this should take you to it

http://www.fefcholden.org.au/techinfo/tech001.html

the complete sills are hard to get, unless they are being reproed again

Gary

Thanks Gary. Just what I was after!

Had some time this morning  so I thought that I would remove the old sill in preparation of the new sills that I have ordered from Craig Vayne.
Inner sills do not look too bad and I will have to do just a few repairs to the bottom of the A pillar and the rear of the inner sill.
I will remove the surface rust and then use KBS chassis coat to all the inner sill. With the outer sill off its easy to see what needs to be done and what the contours of the A pillar are.
(http://s3.postimage.org/1dxmxg9qc/DAD_014.jpg) ($2)

(http://s3.postimage.org/1dy8ffs5g/DAD_015.jpg) ($2)

(http://s3.postimage.org/1dynb9wlg/DAD_013.jpg) ($2)

 For a first timer i'm pretty happy  and confident that I can get it all done. Having the standard wagon is also very helpful for measurements.Keep you posted ;D

That looks like real nice work  ;D ;D    Dave

Excellent progress Nick,keep the pictures coming. 8)

Thanks Boys
I would not have been able to do this without the support and knowledge from the forum

Started on the repairs to the bottom of the A pillar and the bracing section. Cut the rust out on the floor pan and the A pillar. Not so much cutting there as there wasn't much left.
(http://s2.postimage.org/upbl6u3o/A_Pillar_repairs_004.jpg) ($2)

(http://s2.postimage.org/uq0e91ic/A_Pillar_repairs_005.jpg) ($2)

(http://s2.postimage.org/uqsidxwk/A_Pillar_repairs_007.jpg) ($2)

(http://s2.postimage.org/us7s1p7o/A_Pillar_repairs_009.jpg) ($2)

(http://s2.postimage.org/usuxkk4k/A_Pillar_repairs_012.jpg) ($2)

(http://s2.postimage.org/uv79z9b8/A_Pillar_repairs_013.jpg) ($2)
I'll shape the bracing section as it comes in a bit on the outer side and then tidy it up when I get the outer sill off completely sill off. Next step Is the inner sill  and the bracket for the subframe....then the outer section of the A pillar as then I  will have a shape to match it up to.
Hopefully will finish it off during the week.

Doing a good job nick keep up the good work, :) Grubby

Did a bit on Saturday. Today was a bit of a right off after staying up to watch Cadel create history at the tour de France. ;D ;D
Managed to make up a floor pan section that will finish the inside section of the drivers side.
So have gone from this
(http://s2.postimage.org/wkkt5s9w/A_Pillar_repairs_003.jpg) ($2)
Making new piece up for the sub frame attachment point
(http://s2.postimage.org/wnnm61d0/230712_002.jpg) ($2)
Trial fit.
(http://s3.postimage.org/1neoo3kn8/230712_004.jpg) ($2)
Weld in place and fit floor pan section
(http://s3.postimage.org/1nj3fow1w/230712_006.jpg) ($2)
fix up bottom of A pillar support
(http://s3.postimage.org/1nk3tiix0/230712_007.jpg) ($2)
to this
(http://s3.postimage.org/1nrjqkqx0/230712_008.jpg) ($2)
Next job is to fix up the rear secrion of the inner sill then do the other side to up this point.
Now HERE IS MY dilema
Next my intention is to get the subframe sandblasted and coated with KBS. Fit the subframe so that I can finish off the outer section of the bottom of the apillar to ensure a correct fit, as I need to get it off the rotisserie to fit the outer sill  :P :P :P :P cos i cant fit the doors with the support in place across the door frame!
 I would like to get the underside sandblasted too but I don't think I'll be able to get it out of my garage on the rotisserie. It's got a huge slope on the driveway and a car trailer would not be able to make the gradient?? Maybe a flattop.!! car carrier. Any advice please :P

i am very impressed nick you are doing a great job mate keep it up

It must be good if "the BLOK"  ;D is saying its impressive. All I know is that welding caper is not easy and yours is looking the part Nick.

Regards

Wayne B

This is the f****n third time I have done this post. First time I hit refresh and gone. I got no idea what happened just then ....but all lost again >:( >:( >:(
May be I shouldn't post after watching the footy :-[
SO..started on the passenger side rear dog leg section. Removed all the cancer sections.
(http://s2.postimage.org/14o5mxtes/230712_027.jpg) ($2)
and fabricated up sections to replace. The external section has been poorly repaired in the past and was not worth saving. unfortunately.
(http://s1.postimage.org/vymmpuro/230712_029.jpg) ($2)
with out replacing the part with an old section what have others done in the past to repair this section. Its got a few curves in it. I still have the old section but it's pretty RS>
(http://s1.postimage.org/w0gs7qis/230712_031.jpg) ($2)
Have bought some old rares sills from yoyo 1330 alias George which have the contours either end .... they should arrive soon and Ill  how much of the gap they fill.
(http://s1.postimage.org/w2t4mfpg/230712_032.jpg) ($2)
All this only took me about ten hours ::) ::). But if I wasn't doing this what else would I be doing..... Show and shine Mid coast holdens at Cundletown.. (sorry Dave).. surfing.... golf... cycling...  :P
Next step is to wait for the sills so I can start to fit it all together.  Still got the section around the fuel tank to do as well. I think that I'll have to clean the underside by hand cs of the angle of my driveway. No truck can come up and I can't lower it down on the rotisserie.. The crap that PO has put on comes off fairly easily but there is a lot of it and very tight corners for the angle grinder.. :-\ :-\

No worries Nick . Didn't go myself coz of the crap weather ....pulled brakes apart instead ... Good u got some done too .

Mate Hang in there you are doin fine....  look forward to seeing more

Some very tidy welds and fabrication you've been doin... i have no doubt you will bring your classic back to it's best

keep it up...you must be very happy so far


we're all enjoying the progress


FE 4 ME  :)

Wow you are going realy well Nick,hope to get down and have a look soon mate

Thanks boys
Appreciate the feedback. Just hope it all fits together on assembly ;D

Finished off the underbody cross members. These are the ones I bought from YOYO1330. ( Still waiting on the ones from taylors. Now over six weeks from when I bought them >:( >:()
Drivers side
(http://s2.postimage.org/2nv68o3qc/230712_036.jpg) ($2)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2nwgjptk4/230712_034.jpg) ($2)
and passenger side.
(http://s2.postimage.org/2nwyqmmzo/230712_035.jpg) ($2)
I had a panel beater client come over and take a look and he was pretty impressed with the work I had done. He told me that I was too fussy but
I'm happy to be that way.
Need to do a big clean and attack the front windscreen section ( Please Keith :) :))
Next update hopefully a biggy ;D

you can come and do some work for me mate good stuff

Thanks.Blok
Still,got.heaps.to.do.Yours.sounds.unreal 8)
My.space.button.haspacked.it.in :P

Well, I am nearly up to where you were... doing sills and A pillar sections now that I have thoroughly inspected mine! (taxi) and you are inspiring me. I look forward to your next installment.  ;)

Hi Dean
Poking along slowly. Got the subframe garnet blasted last weekend and need to prep and paint that. Prepped and painted all the underside and will also have to do the diff. Once that's on then I want to put the diff and subframe back on to do the sills. Have just been waiting to get some decent progress before the next post. I have sort of been hanging in limbo... not fininshing any thing off cos this needs to be done and I cant because that needs to be done. etc etc
I need to spend some evenings in the garage but I'm usually so kangaroo edward when I get home. Thanks for the gee up though!

Kangaroo Edward ???? Golly , haven't heard that for years !!!  ...good to see your space bar is on the mend though ... LOL .

What paint will you be using. Acrylic or 2k. I suppose at our stage normal etched primer should be ok but I'm still unsure if ill go epoxy or normal 2 pak base. I thought of acrylic but if I go epoxy I can use anything later.

I want to paint it myself so will go with acrylic. There is a really good thread for painting in the FB EK forum . Check it out! I've done a bit of painting in the past and have a good compressor . Will probably do final top coat in a booth.
I used Kangroo edward cos i didn't know if you could say F****d on here :)
Nick

Why don't you PM me the link or tell me what the exact title is and i will have a look. Ive been out under the Taxi all arvo and came in for rest cos its hot. That epoxy undercoat is the bees knees in terms of sealing qualities and I think you can use acrylic. I think people worry about the top coat a lot and dont put much into the base, but good quality base sealers/primers is the key to it, especially if your using new metal.

You're right Deano, it not how good the top coat is, it's the prep work that's the key methodical prep work results in a great finish, sloppy prep work translates to breakdown in the finish later on. Long term paint finish comes from quality beginings.
Regards Jim

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=3336
this is the link, Hope it works
Preparation is the key! That's what takes all the time ;)

Not Happy Jan

The link is a top read, but you said "preparation is what takes all the time" just hope preparation is not as long as the advice  ;D ;D ;D

Cheers Wayne

Thanks for that Wayne... I could not have done it without the encouragement from the forum ;D ;D
Ok Time for an update.
I have been a bit slack with the wagon due to having to do a few things to the sedan. But I am on strict orders not to take the sedan apart at all.
Like thats going to happen :D :D
Got the subframe sandblasted and then I applied the KBS chassis coater kit. This is a 3 part process similar to POR 15 but its Aussie made and a bit cheaper.
Cleaned and rust converter applied...
(http://s17.postimage.org/857j8fujf/230712_037.jpg) ($2)

(http://s14.postimage.org/csh9l79dp/230712_038.jpg) ($2)

...and then the topcoat applied . I used a brush and the finish is amazing really. You can spray it on but this saves heaps on clean up.
One bad point is that you can't really store the paint after opening  it. It goes off quite quickly and if you get any paint in the rim of the can then its a bugger to open. I have bought a little can to use when I get a few parts ready to pain.

(http://s18.postimage.org/ruloqiu05/230712_054.jpg) ($2)

(http://s17.postimage.org/v9m8pmixn/230712_055.jpg) ($2)

I then got stuck into the diff and the underside of the car, this was quite a job, but am really happy with he result. There were a couple of small rust repairs along the way and then the same process. Wash. Blow dry,rust converter, then wash and blow dry and then topcoat. Quite an involved process but should be a permanent barrier to the return of the rust. I hope. 8) 8)

(http://s17.postimage.org/g8jy8d07v/230712_039.jpg) ($2)

(http://s16.postimage.org/3o1e4jc5t/230712_061.jpg) ($2)

(http://s15.postimage.org/nsqcw9glj/230712_040.jpg) ($2)

Next step was to do some rust repairs to the rear around the LHS corner and the seal section for the tailgate. Again not a massive repair but fiddly. Came up looking OK. With some sealant and also some filler as the lead fell out pretty quick when I was welding. Missed the foot ;D

(http://s17.postimage.org/xdag2imvv/230712_063.jpg) ($2)

(http://s16.postimage.org/qczrvl8b5/230712_067.jpg) ($2)

(http://s15.postimage.org/nb8zlmv5z/230712_091.jpg) ($2)

(http://s17.postimage.org/elljvn9ej/230712_071.jpg) ($2)



Next was some repair to the external section of the A pillar. Again not difficult but fiddly. This I will have to finish next week when I will prep the metal as it will but up against the inner layer.


(http://s9.postimage.org/w3wvzj7p7/230712_094.jpg) ($2)

(http://s18.postimage.org/ww8a6rwx1/230712_096.jpg) ($2)

(http://s13.postimage.org/9sp86vcqb/230712_097.jpg) ($2)

(http://s18.postimage.org/ugalnanad/230712_099.jpg) ($2)

(http://s17.postimage.org/n0olztaaj/230712_100.jpg) ($2)

(http://s7.postimage.org/pwuqeeawn/230712_101.jpg) ($2)

(http://s10.postimage.org/cht9buwkl/230712_105.jpg) ($2)

I repaired the holes in the fuel tank which I made when trying to pull out the dents....and have also bought some KBS fuel tank repair kit.. which will seal the tank.I hope.

(http://s14.postimage.org/i3otjxcfx/230712_068.jpg) ($2)

Took all the crap off the roof and will also chassis coat it before putting some dynamat on ( thanks Stinky) . Also took a while to remove the old material. Was not too bad underneath. Didn't take the support ribs out and clean under them....I think I'll let that go :P


(http://s12.postimage.org/utrob0861/230712_062.jpg) ($2)

Seat belt retaining brackets... rebuild the rear end.... new brake lines... On and on! Till next time ;)
Nick

Thats a pretty full on report Nick, looks like you are making great progress, keep going and you'll be finished before you know it

Cheers, Gary

Nick,

Great work, you must be proud of the workmanship, fantastic.

John

Mate , I reckon that if you even suggested disassembling your birthday pressie she'd disassemble you and leave them on the back fence !!!

Nick, that looks great so far. A lot of work but a top finish. Where did you get the KBS chassis kit from, I'm looking for something like that to do mine when it is time.
Regards Jim

Thanks for the feedback 8) 8)
Dave you might be right about that.. But she's a way next weekend. ;) ;).. Picking up my recent 5 spoke dragways purchase ;D ;D
Jim.... Here is the link
http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/locate-a-kbs-coatings-reseller
Nick

I just got KBs coating for my JAWA tank and i also got there clearcoat to do all the alloy after i bead blast it looks the goods..


Pete

Thanks for that, I'll check it out
Jim

JUst looked at the link, Wisharts in Unanderra are the mob that mixed up the paint for the car so I'll give them a call
Thanks again,Jim

Hey Nick ... Please don't tell me she's shouting you a set of Dragways now !!!!   
Be over to see them !!! 

I saw this on Friday, the progress is inspiring, makes me want to buy a mig welder and start cutting!

Love ya work Nick, keen to see the finished product...might be a while tho...

the KBS stuff looks like it came up well.

I just did the fuel tank restoration over Easter.
The internal sealing comes up a treat.

John

Thanks Boys,
Bit dispondent today  :'(with the sections around the side subframe mounts and the sills.)... Trying to work out the order of things and not F**k things up. I think I need to go back and get some inspiration from others builds....
A cash injection looming will help a lot Jamahl. ;D ;D
Please post some photos on the tank John in your build post. Did you take out the tank... I tried to get mine out a while ago and I did not seen to want to come out easily
Checked my tank today for leaks... yes I have some ::) ::)  Does the tank sealant fix up those. ???
closed the garage doors very early today.... :( :(

Did u get the fuel tank out. Make sure you take the fuel line off underneath. I'm not taking the piss, many forget that bit!

Fuel Tank is still in. Will have to take it out for the sealant treatment to be put through it otherwise I can just spin the rotisserie ;D :D
At the moment nothing is connected to anything.  ::) ::)

yeah you want it out.
The stuff amazingly coats the inside pretty well.
Make sure you let it drain out as it takes a while.

Photos coming soon.

Hi all
It's been a while since I have posted on this thread but I have been slowly plugging away.
Finished off the fuel tank with a KBS Fuel tank kit and it turned out pretty good. I will post photos of it later.
I have also been cutting out the rust around the windscreen lower drivers side section.
SPECIAL thanks to FC WRANGLER for the repair section.

(http://s23.postimg.org/irprmd9ev/image.jpg) ($2)


I then KBS chassis coated the rest of the firewall section and refitted the subframe. Not a very easy task to do by ourself let me tell you. Had the subframe fitted but was out by about 5 mm . Had a mate come round and with his help and a lot a grunt managed to get it all fitted.


(http://s15.postimg.org/s6sx7fnhj/image.jpg) ($2)


(http://s21.postimg.org/l92wfk5hf/image.jpg) ($2)

Next section was the  bottom of the A pillar . Again I am happy with the end result.

All progress is good progress Nick. Looks the part.

Regards

Wayne b

I keep loosing the thread in cyberspace so half posted this thread.
Below is the section of the bottom of the A pillar.
This section took a lot a planning for me. It was quite daunting but as I said am happy with the result. I am much more confident now to complete the rest of the rust repairs.
 
Crap... All the photos are being uploaded upside down and it takes me at least 3 times to get it right. Will continue this thread in tapatalk and see if that is any easier.  Stay tuned!
Nick

Fitted the bolt for the subframe and cut out the rust.


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Mocked up and fitted a new section. Rust proofed the inside..
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And tacked it in... Drilled hole for the subframe bolt.

Does this go bolt head this way or nut this way???

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Made up the end section of the outer sill with a section that I got from Craig Vane.i did get a old rare spares outer sill from someone on the forum but it was such a shithouse fit that I used Craig's section instead. The rares sill would never have aligned up with the inner sill... It was a good half inch out. Have had to do this in sections as I'm just not that skilled to do it in one piece.fitted the guard to get alignment and then dressed it up.

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I'm on a roll at the moment.... More updates soon

(http://s12.postimg.org/u04xcbj1l/image.jpg) ($2)

The engine I have sent away to be rebuilt. Mild cam new valves etc. I am heading out to check,it's progress next weekend and will post some photos then.

Plan is at this stage is to get the driveline in and then work on the body in preparation for painting.

Nick

Thanks Wayne.
Your skills have been an inspiration to continue with mine. :)
Nick

Lookin Good Nick    Dave

 It does look good. The way your bolt is fitted is correct they will only go one way, nut to the inside.
cheers
Scott

Good to see some progress mate, wish I could say the same...

Looking good, keep plugging away at it mat ;)e

Good on Nick, coming together now.
  Pedro

thanks boys... the feedback is really satisfying and the other builds inspirational.
Hope to get up to Qld soon Jamahl... will give you a call. It will have to be in a while after the state of origin has finished and NSW takes home the trophy and all the furore dies down ;D ;D ;)
Nick

so we will be seeing you in a couple of years then?

Spot on Oggz
After a set back of a mate?? come up and help? me with the rust, he cutout all that I had done

Oops pushed wrong button



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This morning a retired panel beater said he would help me with the rust . Very happy ;D
Back on track. He's going to take it in a week or so
Got the engine done. mild cam.
Fitting it up and then a paint job
Don't know why this is upside down ?




(http://s22.postimg.org/vxvtj24x9/image.jpg) ($2)

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Still don't know why some pictures are upside down, even when I rotate the original. :P

Anyway more to come!

Nick

Mate, do you need your daughters to teach you how to post a pic the right way up?

Jamahl ...I really need to teach them how to go out and get a job so that I can afford to get some one else to do it> ;D ;D
How is the wagon going??
Nick