I found Super glue good for joining end to end. I've recently tried Sikaflex-227 Auto and Construction Sealant. It starts to cure quickly so after setting up & testing the fit, I found sections were easier to manage & keep clean rather than attempting a large opening in one go. Once left overnight it's there for good unless you deliberately pull it back. It can be carefully pulled away from the rubber & paint if you really need to without causing damage. I had a couple of goes at some sections & found this was a real advantage.

Ditto. Same problem with the boot lid sitting high. Rubbers were purchased from Thompsons. Some came in RS bags, some in unmarked bags. I thought they were all from the same source(s) at the end of the day, each supplying different components to make up a full kit. Apart from the boot & the rear window I thought they were good. I have also considered re using the original boot rubber. The point about the old rubber square being smaller is interesting - would it allow more room for the rubber to squash down into shape?

Here's one thread with some info ....
wheel nuts...

Vern, the issue is with the taper on the nuts. There are some discussions on here that describe the difference in detail. Try a search from the Home page - 'wheel nuts'. It's quite an interesting topic. I bought the same ROH rims in chrome.

More images from Vern .....

Selecting correct material for arm rests.                                                         
     

New rubber and pivot clip in quarter window.


Bonnet rust welded and preparing to prime.


4 new ROH Australia 13’’ rims.

Thanks.
The FB I drove in the early 70s blew smoke & had no hub caps, but my interests were different then.

These two hubcaps belong to Vern. They are the same size & shape, both came off Holden rims.
Any ideas on what the one on the left is? It has no markings.

Vern, I don't recall now what the difference is between L & R sides.
When you look for a replacement, the fins on your model should have a plain end.
Fins for the later model are shaped to accept the extension piece. You will notice the difference when viewing from the side & from underneath.

Thanks for the clarity. Vern's orange inner lens ........

Ken, do you know the reason behind Holden's inner & outer lens design?

Vern, the clear lens is reproduced by Rare Spares now.
https://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/buy/lrt1001/lens-reverse-lamp-clear-fe-fc

On the rear guard fins, they are left & right sides with different part numbers.
There are also two versions (but with the same part numbers) depending on whether you have an extension to the front of the 'C' pillar, as in the late '59 paint style. (Fc Rear Fins)
Here's the description on paint styles : http://www.fefcholden.org.au/techinfo/fcpaintstyles.html

there are others who have achieved guru status just through the volume and not the quality of their posts.

This has been raised before Ole & I'm one of the members you refer to. I have been on the forum for some years & enjoy learning about the experiences posted here & contributing where I can help someone. I'm grateful that such a forum exists & that it makes people welcome regardless of their level of knowledge or skills. I share an interest here but I don't claim to be a guru in any aspect & I'm more than happy for the title to be changed.

Maybe just a matter of a bigger crate filled with foam, or other goods, but as you say it could be as much as a holiday. Hope you find someone taking their own car with room in the boot.

I agree, be up front & save the potential for any unnecessary panic.
I called a courier I deal with in Melbourne out of curiosity just to see if they would require steam cleaning or some sort of certification. They recommended Tas Freight. I have not used them but spoke with Gerard (Sales in Devonport). He was very helpful. The advice was - wrap it in something soft & crate, drop at Hobart's Bridgewater Depot & reference Gerard (03 6426 1201) for background info. They do ship these using appropriate caution but without drawing too much unnecessary attention to what it is in cases like this  eg  describe as something generic like "container" instead of DANGEROUS PETROL TANK.
Estimated cost was $120 + GST. I have no idea how this compares with anyone else, maybe it adds too much to the cost of the item, but anyway, it seems can be done.

Holden 48-HR parts catalogue shows the replaced part number at that time  .......

The heather switch concept is interesting Cam. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
Some real good metal shaping & patching going on there too.

I didn't have a flattener added but now wish I had.

They are listed as Upper & Lower parts:

Front upper R x 1 
Front lower R x 1

Front upper L x 1 
Front lower L x 1

Rear upper (L or R) x 2
Rear lower (L or R) x 2

An update with images from Vern:

Paint code formulas some guys may be interested in.




Before and after instrument gauges.




Engine complete and running on test rig, except for generator, old Lucas one on there to get a belt to fit.




Engine bay painted with test fit of some electrics, relay cover yet to be painted, headlight terminal well made by a friend.

Zulu's photo is clearer than the parts catalogue.
The part is listed for FE, FC, FB, EK. However, the frame & the complete ventilator units appear specific for FE/FC.



I'd try for whole deal, glass & all.