Did you do a bit of a hot-shrink here and there after welding?

Rob

No mate, not necessary.

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/car-builders-four-door---door-restore-kit/SPO7481140.html?cgid=SCA01100304#start=24

Every little step, is one step closer. Did one of those small niggling jobs this morning, one I've been putting off, but turned out to be a lot of fun. Someone previous fitted a speaker to the rear parcel shelf, old skool style, with a drill and hammer. I don't intend putting a speaker there, so needed to fill the hole.

Thank you, I was not aware, now I am!

Sorry skipped over your question. -you may already know this but for those who haven't done it before it's not that obvious.
When you get the new rubber bushes - they are a tad longer than the length of the stud with the nut on, also if you put them both in the eye first - it will not go into the hanger. Worked out - eventually -  one bush goes in the leaf eye on the outside side, position the eye in the hanger, put the other rubber bush into the hanger on the inside side through to the eye, put the stud in on that side and then take some frustration out on the stud head and - evenly - bash it until the rubber is pushed through enough for the nut to go on, tighten up - voila!

Nice work mate. What was the issue with the front spring bolts?  I'll be putting my rear end in soon.

Well the manual et al gives no clue!! scratched my head for a while and eventually a light globe went off! got those suckers in !!!

front leaf bushes by Helen Sheedy, on Flickr

:-) !!

First application of filler. I used Fibral fibreglass filler, as it is non-porous and was covering a lot of welds and will finish off with a skim of regular filler.

Slow and steady. Firewall mods finished. She ain't pretty yet, next job is filler.

How easy was it to fit the pedal assembly! 😊
What I needed to do with the cab was to cut some of the original and bolt it up to where it goes on the dash and weld the 2 together.
On the front of the booster I also needed to make a support bracket to the subframe to stop flex when the pressure was applied to the brakes.
Good work mate!

Thanks. We played around with positions until the pedals were right. Only had to take a nick out of the accelerator mount to fit.

Ain’t nothing like quarantine for smashing car work. Going so well mate. Looks awesome! Can’t wait to hear a running 304

Thanks mate, slow going!

We got under the car and trial fitted the chassis kit, this is a super heavy duty home made one that I got in a trade. Once again, fitted perfectly. The gearbox crossmember in the kit only needed the mount holes adjusted to fit the T700, too easy, lady luck was smiling.





Final task for this weekend, was to fit up the VT brake booster and pedal assembly.





Then we pulled it all apart again, so that all the filler and body work can be done. Many thanks to my buddy, Mick for the assistance. What better way to finish a massive couple of days, than this:

Continuing on with the previous post. With the engine/box now in place we could have a look around it, there is plenty of room all around the motor box for other stuff. We fitted up the extractors after cutting the holes in the bay, I'm not fussed about making snug ones, these CRS ones are fine.

For those of you that know me personally, know my car, and the basket case it was, will know how momentous this weekend has been. It was time to test all the welding, cutting, modifying that had been done over the last year to see if everything fits. For the very first time, the front end was bolted up and the engine/gearbox fitted to check clearances. First thing I will say is that if you are planning on replacing your sub-frame legs, do it on the car. We did all 4 legs using the car as a jig, followed by a sh!tload of other welding a few months ago. When it was bolted up, it slotted right in without any effort, I was sure that it would have moved or warped, but not at all.



We were then ready to bolt up the HR front end. This front end had never been in my car before, but same as with the sub-frame, she bolted right up, with all new rubbers from Rare Spares, and brand new bolts, thanks Pete Mallaby. Unsure how low it will sit, but that's for another time, today was all about getting the engine/box in.





We learned some valuable lessons with the test fit. For final fitting, we will mount the engine by itself and then bolt up the gearbox from underneath, so much easier this way. Again, with minimal effort, the motor and box slotted in like it was always meant to be there.



We also took the time to test fit the radiator, heaps of room!







Got me about 4 inches of room at the front. Front mounted thermofan coming me thinks.

Big job! Looking forward to watchinging you bring her back to life.

I'll take the horn button mate. Will message you.

More slow and steady progress. Got the inside of the roof stripped, de-rusted and coated, was a filthy job!  Also finished the rear wheel wells, they needed major repairs which were done early on in the piece. I finally got the last of the welding done, then some seam sealer followed by a good coat of body deadener.  With the work that was required, I've been able to gain about 1.5 inches of extra room in the wells. The pics aren't the best, but you get the idea.

I don't need any parts, but thank you for posting realistic prices.

Nice work, you're powering on Vern!

Slow and steady wins the race. Finished firewall mods and fixed up the join around the tunnel to the replacement floor, all welded up and ready for some filler. Whilst at it sorted out some tunnel bracing and sealed up the ends of the new No.1 cross-members with some nice curves.  Next job is to bolt on the sub-frame and front end for a motor test fit, before commencing bog work.

Grabbed a few hours over the festive break to spend in the shed. Managed to finish stripping and coating the subframe & engine bay. Just got a few un-needed holes to weld up then ready for a coat of epoxy.

Looks fantastic Vern. Nice colours, can't wait to get mine to this point.