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Author Topic: How to fit bucket seats  (Read 10774 times)
perth_ute
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« on: May 01, 2015, 10:04:30 PM »
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Hello, I am at the point of fitting bucket seats and have noticed that the inner mounts will need to be modified with the hump. At the moment looks like the floor hump needs to be cut but want to get thoughts before starting.
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fcwrangler
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« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2015, 10:44:47 PM »
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Depending on the type of seats you use, you may be able to use the runners from EJ-HR buckets. I remember fitting early Subaru Coupe seats in a FE that I had back in the day. I removed the Subaru runners and replaced them with HR ones then made a plate under the floor for the inner runners and used the standard outer holes.
Jim
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on the seventh day: God Made Holden
Old_Mt_Isa_Boy
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« Reply #2 on: May 02, 2015, 07:46:17 AM »
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Hav'n a go -59 FC Ute

Page 11 of my build shows version 5. The trick in my view is the old school buckets seats that don't sit to high.

Regards

Wayne b
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hsv-001
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« Reply #3 on: May 02, 2015, 01:38:59 PM »
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Yes Wayne is right . The closer the buckets are to the [orininal] floor the easier it will be because the floor slopes up so much toward the hump and you have to lift the runner so high over at the sill[near the doors] to get them level. The only other advice I would give [an this is not so noticeable in utes] ,is that the sills taper inward and the floor pan is narrower at the front ,so it is probably important to slide the seats and tilt the seat ,before your final location . Just to check that they are parallel to each other. Cheers Haydn   
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perth_ute
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« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2015, 11:30:57 PM »
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Its going to be fun... I picked up a pair of bmw m3 seats and they can fit the outer holes with little mod but the hump in the middle is a prob. Thinking of cutting the top off the hump to get the seats lower. Will check out pg 11.
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hsv-001
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« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2015, 07:20:22 AM »
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I think that the Hump you are referring to is the one that runs from sill to sill .If you cut in you will have to weld that small hat section underneath .That will get you down a few inches, but low enough to be level no you will still have to block up the outside . From memory in my van I levelled the hump a little, then levelled either side with a wedge of RHS with captured nuts and then on the outside used 100x50 RHS and bolted the runners directly to those . Still my son who is over 6' still struggles with knees around the wheel because the steering column is shortened . The seatbelts in my van are recessed under the back floor to allow the seats to travel back so that may be also a thought . Think about boxing them under the back floor and bringing them through the wall . Cheers Haydn   
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perth_ute
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« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2015, 01:49:00 PM »
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Not really sure what you mean.
Thinking of cutting the top 'hat' section and maybe lowering it further.
Do not want to replace the floor but need to get it down about 2 inches
Here is the hump


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VAN059
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« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2015, 07:12:21 AM »
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I fitted a pair of Jap buckets to my EK ute once by fabricating brackets that bolted to the floor, and with the runners sitting/bolted on top. Didn't need to cut any part of the hump, and I had ample head & leg room (I'm 6ft). I still have the brackets, I can take a snap and post if it helps.

Cheers
March
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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2015, 08:16:22 AM »
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What I meant was that you can flatten that on top ,no worries but there is a hat section underneath . Like others are saying , bolt the runners[[careful the runners clear the bolts so they still run] directly to the floor on the inside by making wedges either side of that hump and then block the outside up to suit . We can argue forever about seat height and comfort but I'm old school and gauge correct position by my elbow out the window . Haydn
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #9 on: May 12, 2015, 07:25:56 PM »
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Do not want to replace the floor but need to get it down about 2 inches

You probably don't want it lower, you'll end up not seeing over the dash.
I had some late model buckets fitted to my Pano and there were no floor mods apart from extra bolts holes.
I would suggest fitting up the bench seat runners, run a couple of lengths of tube/angle between and then fabricate some additional mounts to fit the level between the bench runners. Once you've got those mounts done fab up some adapters to suit your seats (sounds easy when you say it like that).
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zulu
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« Reply #10 on: May 12, 2015, 11:26:54 PM »
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I sat my seats in place and made up some templates of how I wanted the brackets out of tin, (easy to bend) I then riveted the tin together and took them to an engineer who made them up out of steel










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