Want to buy:
1. Speedo driven gear ex 48/215 or FJ , 22 tooth. This is the bit that screws into the side of the gearbox, part No. 7105060
2. Tie rod end lock nut, RH thread
Thanks, Fraze

Ok, a modern lip seal is available. The size is 1.000 id x 1.437 od x .250 inch. Cost me $5.00! Cheers, Fraze

I need to replace the pitman shaft seal in my steering box. Is there a modern lip seal which can be used, or are we stuck with the original felt seal? Advice please, Fraze

Hi Harv, further to my reply of July 26, I can now confirm that I want 9 improved head gaskets. hope that's ok. Cheers, Fraze

Hi Harv, is there any indication of price yet for the improved head gaskets, (2nd round) ? thanks, Fraze

Can anyone suggest a source for the FIXED ball on the tie rods? (not the steering knuckle). There used to be a guy in Mulgrave, Melbourne who could replace these balls but he has now passed away.
Those on my tie rods are partly worn through the stems due to contact with the tube.
Thanks, Fraze

Wanted - Speedo driven gear (the bit that screws into the side of the gearbox) ex 48/215 or FJ, 23 tooth part no. 7405060.
              Tie rod end lock nut, RH thread.
Thanks, Fraze.
     

I would be interested in buying 2 - 3 improved head gaskets, and I know several guys who would also be interested but I can't contact them just now. As many as 8 gaskets. Thanks. Fraze

I have a "red motor" clutch in my FC. I was warned that there might be clearance issues with the Grey bellhousing but it didn't happen, all good out of the box. Cheers, Fraze

Thanks for the input Harv and Rob. The steering box in the FC is worn without doubt but not too bad. If I try to ad just out the slop it just gets heavier. I can easily rotate it from lock to lock with the front jacked up with no binding. Caster and camber have been checked several times and are within spec. I am running zero toe so probably I should experiment in that area. I have a toe gauge. Kingpins were replaced only a few thousand miles ago, and they are not over tight. Before I put the Maxxis tyres on, the steering weight was quite acceptable and it didn’t wander at speed. I forget what brand the original tyres were but they were (elderly) radials. This gets me back to my main question re type/ brand of tyres to put on the Ute. Cheers, Fraze.

Further to my post re tyres for my FB ute, what is the concensus - Radial or crossply. I would be very interested in your experience. Thanks, Fraze

I am about to buy tyres for my FB ute (standard rims/wheels) and need advice on the best tyres to use .

On my FC sedan I am running Maxxis 185/70x13 and find that at low speed the steering is very heavy and at cruising speed it wanders a bit so i don't want a repeat of that. I am running 35 psi (any less and it is impossible) and yes alignment, castor and camber have all been checked as within spec.

WHAT IS THE EXPERIENCE OUT THERE?   Thanks, Fraze.

Want to buy - speedo drive gear unit, 22 tooth gear, screws into gearbox, ex 48/215 or FJ. Thanks, Fraze

Well i gave up on the rope seal as supplied in the gasket sets, it is absolute rubbish, and used the 6380S stuff I got from America. It has been in for quite a few thousands of miles now and I am happy with it. I do get some leakage (not enough to concern me) but I put that down to the poor state of the crank seal area which is quite worn.
As a footnote, my Wifes nieces husband did his apprenticeship with Repco in their engine reco shop - I showed him the rope  seal out of the gasket set and he condemned it immediately as unusable.
Another footnote - I compared the 6380S seal with the seal supplied for the Holden V8 engines and it is very similar, just a bit larger cross section.

All good now, Fraze

I'm finding this all very interesting. Re painting of engine bays, my car is a 1958 ( October '58 we believe) with a Melbourne body number. it has never been restored. The whole engine bay, including firewall, skirts and back of radiator support panel are body colour. The colour has faded over the years but is obviously original. I have scratched a few places to check and there is no other colour under the original crystal blue. There appears to be a red oxide primer under the colour paint. the I.D plate was painted over.  Fraze

My 'october '58 FC , original engine, has the coil mounted between 3 & 4 plugs. Likewise my two FB engines have the coils mounted between 3 & 4! Fraze

PM sent, cheers, Fraze

Hi guys, I want to get a feel for values - I have been offered a Lucas generator and matching voltage regulator for my FB. They have been bench tested by an auto elec and pronounced good, but not reconditioned. What sort of money should I pay? thanks, Fraze

Hi Antman, sorry I haven't worked out how to post pictures on this site, however if you Google Airtex E8012 a picture should come up. This pump can be fitted in your fuel line anywhere between the tank and the original pump. Auto Surplus in Melbourne are the distributors in Vic, I don't know about the other states. However if you want to buy one you can go into the USA Ebay Auto site and there will be plenty for sale. You should land one here for less than $100. the first one I fitted, 20 years ago, is still going strong. Cheers, Fraze.

One of my cars gets only occasional use and i got tired of nearly flattening the battery on its first start after no use so I fitted a small electric pump. The pump I used is an AIRTEX. This type of pump is rotary which means that fuel can flow through it when it is not operating. I have mine on a switch so that I can use it to prime the carby and once the engine is started I turn it off and let the engine run on the original mechanical pump. Even after not starting the car for 2 - 3 months, priming the carb this way gives you immediate starts.
The Airtex pump I use in model E8012. Cheers, Fraze