If it's anything like the FB/EK light switch, it has a coiled spring rheostat (variable resister) that is used to dim the instrument lights. The coiled spring gets rusty over time, and the lights don't come on. Turn your headlights on, then turn the switch backwards and forwards until you find the sweet spot that the lights work.

Cheers,
Harv.

Good news  .

Ask a silly question Clive - is the Seatons setup for steel case or alloy case Toyota boxes?

Cheers,
Harv.

Clive,

Both Dellow and CRS do coversions for the Toyota steel-case box to grey, though neither do the alloy cases to grey  (they do have alloy case to red/blue/black though).

http://www.rodshop.com.au/trans_conversions/2wd_trans.htm
http://www.dellowconversions.com.au/images/DellowAutomotive.pdf

Maybe give them a yell and see what they suggest?

Cheers,
Harv.

Ken's right - the EK non-vacuum fuel pump had the same rocker arm that was used on the FE/FC pump (early FE had a different arm). The EK arm remained until mid-EK, then a new arm was introduced that was kept all the way through to HR. Short of it is that the red pumps (early EK or later EK-HR) all work on greys.

Cheers,
Harv.

No worries. Will post up the carb document shortly, just waiting for some 48/215 info.

Apologies for not being able to stay and chat at the AHD... kids had had enough  .

Cheers,
Harv.

Steel timing gear sets (an iron camshaft gear, a steel crankshaft gear, a camshaft thrust plate and crankshaft oil seal) are also available as (Part number GS138) from Master Engineering (12-16 Hill Street Port Elliot South Australia 5212, Telephone: (08) 85542488, Facsimile (08) 85542499, Email: nicky@masterengineering.com.au).

Diecrest Engineering (Corner of Bagshaw Street and Thompsons Road Harcourt Victoria 3453, Telephone (03) 54742321, Facsimile (03) 54742536, Email info@diecrest.com.au) can also supply steel timing gears, though they generally make them on demand rather than stocking them.

This may be useful: http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,19642.0.html

Cheers,
Harv.

Can still get clutches - this may help:
http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=14086

Cheers,
Harv.

This may help  :
http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=19642.0

Cheers,
Harv

Ladies and gents,

I'm in the process of pulling together an enthusiasts guide for early Holden carbies. My intention is to cover mainly the single-barrel BX Strombergs from FX-HR, though will dabble a little in the HR 186S WW's (and other wierd and wonderful stuff) to make the picture whole. The aim is to cover:
• historical information, such as which carburettors and fittings were fitted to different model Holdens,
• practical information on identification, disassembly and reassembly of early Holden original and replacement carburettors (including twins and triples), and
• guidance on tuning, replacement parts and overhaul techniques.
Aiming to finish it off then post on the FX/FJ, FE/FC, FB/EK, EJ/EH and Early Holden forums.

I've managed to lay my hands on the following info so far:
• The Bendix Corporation Australia (Automotive) Pty Ltd Stromberg Carburettor Service Manual No. BM1 issued August 1968, with the 1970 supplement.
• The Bendix Corporation Australia (Automotive) Pty Ltd Carburettor & Fuel Pump Service Parts Catalogue No. PC2 Issued March 1968.
• The Holden EK Workshop Manual.
• The Holden ‘FB’ Workshop Manual.
• The Holden ‘EJ’ ‘EH’ Workshop Manual.
• The Master Parts Catalogue (20 Years of Holden Production).
• The Scientific Publications Workshop Manual Series No. 67 Holden covering series 1948/’53 FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK, EJ, EH, HD, HR.
• The Scientific Publications Workshop Manual Series No. 86 Holden covering series HK, HT, HG (whilst this document does not aim to examine HK/HT/HG Holdens, the HR, HK, HT and HG Holden 186S engines have identical WW Stromberg carburettors).
I've also pulled a hell of a lot of info off the forums and made a go of sorting the wheat from the chaff.

To help complete the picture, does anyone have any of the following please:
a) A copy of the FX, FJ, FE, FC, HD and HR Holden Workshop manuals? I only need a copy of the Fuel and Engine (Fuel) Specifications sections - would love a scan or photocopy, happy to pay postage to make it work.
b) A copy of the Bendix Service Manual or Parts Catalogue dated later than 1968 - would love a scan, photocopy or loan, happy to pay postage to make it work.
c) Any Accelerator Magazines or Service Bulletins that deal with Stromberg carbs - would love a scan or photocopy, happy to pay postage to make it work.
d) Advice on the best way to pull main discharge jets (not main metering jets) out of single barrel Strombergs? The original GMH and Stromberg tools appear to be unavailable - if anyone has one, I'd love some measurements and photos please. Any reason not to use a small screw extractor, or a better way?
e) Photos of triple and twin Stromberg setups. I have pulled all there are to offer from the forums, though most show the "sexy engine bay" view rather than details of throttle and choke linkages.
f) Anecdotes on Stromberg modifications (very happy to chat to any of the grey racers out there).

Cheers,
Harv (apprentice carby fiddler).

Kit looks OK, but try to get one with the reuseable fuel bowl and metering block gaskets like this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLLEY-REUSABLE-BOWL-GASKET-SET-320-350-500-2BL-/220807747528?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33692ad7c8
As Mick said, the bowl and block will be on and off a few times as you tune it to suit you motor... the paper type gaskets don't last very long with hard loving  .

Cheers,
Harv.

FE 4 Me,

I like Holleys - and believe that provided:
a) the size is chosen for the right engine (resisting the temptation to put a Dominator on a whipper snipper),
b) they are rebuilt (most spend a few years accumulating dirt and spiders in someones garage), and
c) they are jetted, pumped and powervalved right by someone who understands how they work,

, then they are a pretty good choice, and no harder to understand than the original Stromberg (if I can get my head around a vac seconday 600, then anyone can  ). It will be no more hassle to rebuild and tune yours than to buy and tune a new one.

I love the fact that parts are readily available and interchangeable.

I've got some info to hand (part numbers, assembly diagram, jet sizing from the link below etc) that may help, though it needs a tidy up - happy to forward you a copy if it's useful (pm me an email address).

Cheers,
Harv.

John,

I guess some of the difficulty in tuning mains for a twin-carb setup is that the standard 0.051" jet is the smallest Holden offered other than the 0.050" on humpies - to go lower (which you need to do on twins) you can't pull them from another Holden - they have to be aftermarket. Having said that, places like American autos stock 0.040", 0.043", 0.044", 0.045" and 0.049" mains. Was the lack of adjustment you had with the fixed mains because of the above sizings being wrong, or were you tuning with just the one sized jet?

Flat spots on twin carbs are often associated with the lower venturi pressure. By adding a second carburetor, the “hole” to allow air into the engine has effectively doubled in size. Whilst this is good for air flow, it can do some interesting things inside the carburetor, where pressure is critical. By doubling the “hole”, the pressure in the venturi has reduced. Of note:
• The idle system, which operates below the venturi, still sees the same pressure and acts similarly to a single carburetor.
• The main metering system takes vacuum signal from inside the booster venturi, which in turn takes signal from the main venturi. With lower pressure means that less fuel is taken per carburetor (though there are now two carburetors feeding). The slower air speed also means that the fuel delivered is not atomized as well as a single carburetor.
• The accelerator system sees no difference in having two (or three) carburetors, as it is purely mechanical and not vacuum driven.
• The power system sees no difference in having two (or three) carburetors, as it takes it’s signal from the manifold pressure (just like the idle system).
• The choke system sees no difference in having two carburetors as it operates above the venturi.
As can be seen from the above, running two carburetors can have an impact on the main metering system. This is often seen as good idle, then moderate initial acceleration (as the accelerator system works), then very sluggish acceleration (flatspot) while the main metering system gets the engine up to speed, followed by decent performance as the main system takes over. If the venturi diameter is reduced, the pressure issue goes away, and the sluggish performance is removed. Holden recognized this when it fitted twin carburetors to the HD and HR Holden red X-2 motors – the single BXV-2 carburetor with a 15/32” venturi was replaced with twin BXUV-2 carburetors with smaller 13/32” venturis. Unfortunately, for the smaller capacity grey motors the BXOV-1 carburetor has no locally available smaller-venturi alternative to use when fitting twin and triple carburetors. Were you running BXOV-1 twins (bad enough reduction in venturi signal) or the larger BXV-2/BVUV-2s (even worse reduction)?

One way however to improve the sluggish performance is to fit venturi sleeves (sometimes referred to as venturi restrictors), Venturi sleeves increase air speed through the venturi, getting the good vacuum signal back to the main metering system and helping fuel atomisation. This removes the sluggish low-down acceleration. Venturi sleeves were once anecdotally made by an FX/FJ enthusiast to fit the BXOV-1 carburetor, though enquiry to find the person has come up empty. Venturi sleeves however are available for the Holley 7448 carburettor (the “Holley 350” discussed later in this document). Redline Performance venturi sleeves are available from American Auto Parts (part number 14-35) and Barnes Performance (part number BP14-35). It must be recognized that the sleeves are made for a venturi diameter of 13/16” , and must be filed back (so they close up more) when fitting to the 11/32” BXOV-1 venturi. The filing appears to be extensive – almost ½”needs to be removed from the circumference. The Redline Performance venturi sleeves are 0.035” thick (~1/32”), and if gapped correctly will change a BXOV-1 venturi diameter from 11/32” diameter to 0.96” diameter (~31/32”).
Note also that in fitting venturi sleeves, the signal sent to the main metering system is much stronger (i.e. the main metering jet gets “sucked on” harder. This can lead to the main metering system running rich. When fitting venturi sleeves, the main metering jets will need to be decreased in size to account for this. Were the twins fitted with venturi sleeves?

When the engine was tuned on the dyno, what process was used to ensure both carbs were running equal mixtures in the main circuits - I assume it was by "turning the screws out the same number of turns" on the adjustable mains, but could be wrong.

Apologies in advance for the epic novel above - I'm just really curious to understand the overall system you had for the twins.

Cheers,
Harv

Clive,

I'm in the process of pulling together some info for a carburettion document ( ), so will comment from the info I have to hand.

Adjustable mains are common, and you can still get them from places like American Auto Parts in Sydney. The main jet and main jet plug are removed. A special jet (that comes with the adjustable main) replaces the main jet. It has a tapered seat (shoulder) to suit the needle of the adjustable main (standard mains are square shouldered). The adjustable main (a glorified brass needle valve with a rubber o-ring) replaces the main jet plug.

Most material  I have read indicates that adjustable mains in twins and triples are not recomended. The hard bit is trying to get the mixtures equal in both carbs, which is why most enthusiasts recomend non-adjustable mains. To set up adjustable jets, the following may help:
a) tune them the same way as fixed jets, but "screw them in" the same amount on both jets. This is pretty rough but, as you are adjusting a poofteenth of a turn on each one.
b) tune them and then measure the exhaust gas (for CO) on both front and rear exhaust runners, then adjust for even CO. This can be bloody hard as few exhaust runners (extractor pipes) allow you to "tap in" - a hole drilled/nut backwelded may provide a sampling port, with a short plug screwed in when the port is not in use.
c) tune them and then measure exhaust gas temperature and tune for even temperature. Again, hard to measure if the front and rear exhaust runners are not sampleable, but an infrared temperature gun may give a rough idea.
d) I've heard some guys disconnect the carb linkage, screwing one jet in until the motor runs rough at cruise throttle, then back it off, then do the same with the other carb before reconnecting. I'm not sure I like the science of doing this, as it sets the engine up to run off one carb (and should be overly rich when both are reconnected.

If they were mine, I'd recomend fixed jets.

Cheers,
Harv

Ladies and Gents,

As promised, attached below a link to a the FB/EK Holden timing gear replacement enthusiasts guide (with thanks to those on the forum who commented). It contains practical information on identification of timing gear failure, disassembly and reassembly of FB and EK Holden timing gear assemblies. It has been written to explain both workshop-type practices, and those used at the side of the road.

Whilst it is written with FB/EKs in mind, 99% of the content is valid for FE/FC grey motors.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/58349283/Timing-Gear

Cheers,
Harv.

Ladies and gents,

Having spent a (greasy) Easter replacing a grey motor timing gear, I figured I'd jot down the process into a document to help the next guy - the workshop manual has most of the process in it, but it is not that transparent, and most enthusiasts don't have a manual. The document (don't panic, its a small one   ) brings together the actual process (with pictures  ), as well as the required parts, suppliers and opinions over steel vs. alloy vs. fibre gears.

I'm no timing gear expert though - this was my first replacement. Do any of you guys want to read through the document before I post it (I'm thinking here of the guys who have done a number of gears)? PM me an email address and I'll email you a copy.

Cheers,
Harv.

Clive,

The original Holden sender is an on/off switch - it's normally "off", but turns "on" once you get to the "oh crap - too hot!" temperature. It won't drive a temperature gauge. To run the gauge, you need a sender that is always "on" - at low temp it is "a little bit on", and as things get hotter it gets "a little more on". Give the VDO guys a yell - they should be able to supply the right sender. You will need to think about where you are going to mount the sender though:
  replace the original sender (then you get no idiot light),
  tee into the original sender hole (then you get crappy temperature readings as the sender has no flow going past it),
  use the second hole in the cylinder head (only good if you have a later FB/EK/EJ grey motor head),
  use the spare hole in the thermostat housing (if you have an FX/FJ/FE/FC thermostat housing),
  tap a new hole into the thermostat housing (if you have a later FB/EK/EJ thermostat housing),
  try to find a sender that inserts under the radiator hose (similar to the Davies Craig thermofan senders).

Cheers,
Harv.

Done  :
http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=2945&p=137478#p137478

Rod,

I'll post the query over on the FB/EK forum for you.

Got me curious too 

Cheers,
Harv.

Ace,
PM sent - not sure if it got through though?
Cheers,
Harv

Ladies and Gents,

As promised, please find below the first pass of the FB/EK Holden Nasco oil filter enthusiasts guide. I've written it with FB/EK's in mind, though the info is 99% valid for FE/FCs. I owe thanks to quite a few guys from this forum for help - thankyou!

This document aims to provide some information regarding the NASCO oil filters fitted to FB and EK Holdens. It contains
  historical information, such as which filters were advertised for different model Holdens,
  practical information on identification, disassembly and reassembly of FB and EK Holden filters,
  guidance on replacement parts and overhaul techniques, and
  some explanations on full-flow filtration.

It contains answers to many of the questions that seem to come up routinely on most of the early Holden forums:
“Where do I connect the hoses to?”
“What filter cartridge can I use?”
“Can I convert my grey motor to full-flow filtration?”

http://www.scribd.com/fullscreen/56830215?access_key=key-1e6pc13gvi0gfjj7wqjv

Happy to recieve any feedback for changes or ammendments.

Cheers,
Harv (chief apprentice oil filter fiddler).