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Aa-and -  Here's the rear shock crossmember, welded in place:



It almost looks original.  Enough so it won't attract attention, come blue-slip time.

I discovered (because of rain) that I can work in the carport with the body shell raised enough so I can get underneath it.  As long as I don't try to rotate the shell.  Don't want crease marks in the roof.

Rob

GUYS

HAVING TO CHANGE OUT ENGINE MOUNTS , I HAD THEM DONE CUSTOM I BELIEVE WONT KNOW TIL I PULL THEM OUT. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON NEW ONES THAT FIT STRAIGHT UP , ALL SUMP , STEERING RACK ARE DONE CURRENTLY A DAILY DRIVER .

18

  fc holden special station sedan shell  plus  front subfame

   new A pillars, B pillars, outer sills ,larger tunnel rust free tank area
   
   solid dog legs , NOS drivers rear quarter panel

   new floors, solid rails  solid roof no rust in gutters no dents

   will throw in  heavy homemade rotisserie
      excellent base for project  if yours is rusty  comes with tags (factory black ,india ivory )
 
           $4,000    one hour from melbourne

                pm   and l will post you pics    greg

Thanks Vern,

I will ensure I grab one with a double lip.

Cheers

use a double lip seal , pack some high temp grease between lips ..if inner lip seals well the outer lip may overheat and burn , grease will go someway to stopping that , the inner lip will get oil on it if all correct

And here is the rear axle hump, with hedgehogs removed and some paint applied, ready for the rear shock crossmember to be welded in place:



Rob

The more difficult side turned out to be easier.  I'll put it down to having done the other side.  But this time I needed to slot and bend forward the return of the rear floor to get better access to the seam at the front.



And with more drilled spot welds, I could line this piece up exactly.

Rob

Making sure the top screw is clear of the water pump…..just saying ??

Thanks - good reminder!

Craig,

I've got one, but don't use it often.  Instead, I use the harmonic balancer as the alignment tool: with the timing cover loose, drive the balancer onto the crank just far enough to engage the seal, then tighten the screws.

Rob

Thanks Rob - that's the method I used before. Keep it simple, stupid!

Making sure the top screw is clear of the water pump…..just saying ??