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Author Topic: Late 5.0L block numbers?  (Read 8823 times)
Ed
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« on: April 29, 2006, 03:17:50 AM »
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by chance..

does anybody know the enigne numbers for Late 5.0l(4.9L) blocks which were cast with clearances for the 5.7L bottom end?

are there different no's for the 4.9L and 5.7L??

hoping not.

Cheers

Ed

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« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2006, 03:35:13 AM »
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Ed
       I don't know the prefix no's for those blocks but I would give C.O.M.E  race engines a call as they are pretty good with getting every extra HP out of holden v8's.
Glenn
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« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2006, 03:38:47 AM »
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Glenn,

I've discovered where to get brand new crate motors :-)

a 5.7 short motor may be just what the doctor ordered.

running some good compression, and balanced bottom end may cure my motor blues once and for all.

Grin

Chev eater?
Wink

Cheers

Ed

PS cant afford a COME motor, but did use one of their cams.
the motor I am considering uses the Harrop crank.
« Last Edit: April 29, 2006, 03:44:00 AM by EH » Logged

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« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2006, 03:53:28 AM »
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Ed,
     I believe its the VT and later blocks which dont need machining to accomodate a 355-383 crank.

The harrop gear is nice, but it is also quite pricey but all 355 kits seem to be...


Have you considered getting a standard 308 crank and getting it offset ground? this with a set of small journal 327 rods and +30 oversize will make a 330 stroker, these motors are extremely torquey and will actually outrev a 355.

When/if you decide to stroke it, what type of intake do you plan to run? im actually good friends with FLOWCRAFT ENGINEERING here in victoria. He has not long designed and manufactured his own twin throttle manifold that looks absolutely gorjus!!  Dont really know if its what youd be after, but his manifolds are cheaper than all other twin throttle body setups out there, and it outflows them by something like 11%

just food for thought  Lips sealed Cool
« Last Edit: April 29, 2006, 04:07:02 AM by torquefc » Logged

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« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2006, 04:18:39 AM »
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Hey Darcy,
I have considered the 330 offset ground crank however for little extra can have a 355 brand new, my current block needs work and it's just not financially viable.  
I can get a short motor with all the good gear at a pretty reasonable price so the 330 isn’t so appealing anymore once you factor in machining costs, balancing, new rods, pistons, bearings, bolts etc plus sleeving of the block or boring of a good second hand block.

The top end I have is good for street use, mild ported VN heads, with ports matched to a Harrop dual plane and a 1000cfm billet throttle body with a mild cam.  While it may not flow as well as a TTB set up it should have loads more torque in the 2000 – 3600 rpm range, where it will spend most of its time.  Coupled with a longer stroke it should make some good figures without the need to be revved… torque over outright power.

Still at the end of the day it’s no powerhouse and the rising cost of fuel has to be considered.. which favours just an ordinary 5.0L.

All I need to know is will the authorities notice if I use a late model clearanced block or not.
For speed and power nothing beats a bike….
Cheers

Ed
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« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2006, 09:40:57 AM »
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Quote
does anybody know the enigne numbers for Late 5.0l(4.9L) blocks which were cast with clearances for the 5.7L bottom end?


Is that a Canadian block?    Grin
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« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2006, 08:46:32 PM »
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no Canadian blocks here...

the VT block is genuine clearance cast for the 5.7L bottom end stronger casting.

the 5.0L and 5.7L share the same block.

I have found out the appropriate prefixes now.

Cheers

Ed
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« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2006, 11:53:20 PM »
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i might add, that the vt blocks were clearanced to fit a 355 crank as all HSV's and special orders were fitted with a C.O.M.E crank.(well atleast im pretty sure it was a come crank, may have been Harrop, but i doubt it...)

have you checked out COME racings new 383? dont think its what your lokoing for, but man its wild!!! Grin Grin
« Last Edit: May 01, 2006, 11:55:52 PM by torquefc » Logged

tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"

in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
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« Reply #8 on: May 02, 2006, 01:34:24 AM »
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HSV VR  GTS 215kW was the first 5.7L,and they have always been Harrop cranks until the last at VT 220 kW model.

All these blocks since VR have clearance for the crank.

Cheers

AL
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« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2006, 05:31:40 AM »
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thanks for the info guys, I'm on the case..

while I'm on the subject of engine upgrades,

it has become apparent the 4 row radiator I am using just doesnt like to sit in traffic even in this mild weather.

I have thought about using an Electric water pump to help things along.

anybody have any expereince with these.. good or bad?

the theory sounds nice, higher flow at idle etc, less drag on the crank etc.

also alot cheaper than a new radiator.

opinions?  

Cheers

Ed
« Last Edit: May 02, 2006, 05:33:59 AM by EH » Logged

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« Reply #10 on: May 02, 2006, 08:06:41 AM »
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my brother runs one on his vk and the hq, he said theyre fantastic. he says he did have a day (42 degrees) when it got real hot. he said he turned the motor off for no more that 5 minutes and the motor dropped down over 100 degrees.

which type are you thinking of getting? the one with an external motor and the seperate belt, or a full electric one? the full electric ones are around $650, or the one that runs a seperate belt is about $130, i think vpw have them on their site.

what kind of fans are you running on it?
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tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"

in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
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« Reply #11 on: May 02, 2006, 07:42:15 PM »
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running a black flex-a-lite fan.  with an additional 10inch thermo on the front (which does nothing as it is too small - this was just picked out of the parts bin).

going to make a full shroud this week from fibreglass.

the radiator fan guard I had on it restricts flow I think.

poking around in the engine bay last night I think there may not be enough room for an electric water pump.

will try shrouding the fan first, then maybe put a 12inch fan on the front.

Cheers

Ed
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« Reply #12 on: May 02, 2006, 08:55:50 PM »
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Hi Ed.
Just browsing & noted your plan to use a shroud with a "Flex-Fan". Not a good idea as far as my experience goes.
I had that set up on my Monaro which ran a 350. It all LOOKED as if it should work, but with a big fat 4 core radiator & that hot (As in hot running) Chev, it would boil all the time I hit the road. Everything was checked & still did it. Finally, got my head around it, when realising what the flex fan actually did. The faster it revs, the flatter the blades go & that is where HP is saved. Less restriction.

With the shroud fitted, it actually created a flat wall of fan (For lack of a better way to described it) & stopped ANY airflow. That is what had me f**ked for so long. It was great in traffic, but when I hit the hwy, booooom, it always overheated. Ripped the shroud off & all was solved........apart from there being no protection from the fan & those buggers are sharp at a couple of thousand revs.

I bunged 2 little thermo fans on the front of the radiator that were of something like a Colt (Or another equally ridiculous car) & having a very limited space in that car, they were designed very flat. It worked a treat.
You would be surprised at how flat some of these fan set ups are. Very effective though.

Rob J
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« Reply #13 on: May 02, 2006, 09:05:43 PM »
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Hey Rob,

Interesting, I had a flex fan with ally blades but ditched it as it was crap.

replaced with the black plastic fan by flexalite with 90 degree blades.. very effective.

On the highway, it is great, sits on 170F all day long, in traffic it is less than ideal.

sits on about 195 almost 200F.

i will hop down to the wreckers today and scour about for some little thermo's.

did u run the thermos with an engine fan as well?

thanks for the tip.

Cheers

Ed
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« Reply #14 on: May 02, 2006, 09:20:39 PM »
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Ahhh, OK.
A Flexlite fan, with fixed blades, I get it now.
Mine was a really cool looking fan, with highly polish stainless blades. Looked great, but with the shroud, CRAPOLA!

I did end up running the twin thermos, with that flex fan, as it WAS good in traffic & once it got up & running, everything was cool....literally!

Look for the front mounted fans (That push air through, instead of pulling). Little front wheel drive cars, that have sideways mounted motors seem to be the best, as the don't have any fan to begin with. Mine came with brackets & all, that were a really easy task to modify & fit. I am sure it came of a Colt, but may have been a Laaser, or Mazda. Just didn't really note.
I also sourced a variable temp reader thingo (Mmm, correct name escapes me), that you could dial in where ever you wanted the fans to cut in. Really easy to use. I did have a few issues when I went travelling, as I had it hard wired, so it would fire up even if the ignition was off. Coming home at midnight into a campground & turning the car off, many a time the fans would fire up & buzz for around 15 minutes when everything else was quiet. Got in trouble over that Embarrassed . So you may wwant too take that into consideration.


Goodluck in the search. Car looks awesome, I don't think I have mentioned that before.

Rob J
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« Reply #15 on: May 02, 2006, 09:47:40 PM »
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Good how to article on Fan shrouds here Ed,
http://www.the-rumbler.com/fanshroud-1.html
Pretty good for a journalist! (Boris writes for Street Machine)
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« Reply #16 on: May 02, 2006, 10:15:33 PM »
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Thanks ROB, SRV.

Boris' articles are always funny.

nice shroud, simple and effective.

Cheers

Ed
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« Reply #17 on: May 03, 2006, 12:41:56 AM »
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Ed,
   re: overheating problems. On the fc sedan we had no engine fan and 2 thermos (which turned out to be some jap ones off an camira). The car was great on the highway, but as soon as you sit in traffic the guage crept up and up, 170f is quite good, ours ran around 180 on the run which is about right.

Is your radiator a crossflow or downflow? standard or tripple by-bass? ours now (havent got running yet) is a hq v8 radiator fitted with a tripple by-pass, and will have 2 10" fans, this will hopefully keep it cool this time round.  You can buy the fans pretty cheap from supercheap auto and places like that, they seem to work ok as weve got one on the vk, from memory they are $49.95.
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tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"

in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
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« Reply #18 on: May 03, 2006, 12:52:50 AM »
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Hey Darcy,

HQ type, fitted with a 4 row core, cut down by 1.5inches.
single pass.

am going to put on twin 12inch fans to pull around 3000cfm.

I may get the rad modified to triple pass too.

finally getting some time to sort out all these probs.

Cheers

Ed

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« Reply #19 on: May 03, 2006, 01:21:14 AM »
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Sounds like a good plan,
                                     I have a mate who has a hq style radiator in his Camaro, it ran really hot, couldnt drive longer than 15 minutes. So what he done was bought a set of AU-BA thermo's, they advertise em in just parts for something like $235, as soon as he fitted them the guage never went over 175f. Was thinking of going down this path but then we would have to move the oil cooler again so we thought bugger it....

anyways good luck with it,  Grin Cool

ohh also, there isnt any different between fans that pull the air or push the air, its just a matter of undoing the nut in the middle of the blade and turning it the other way round  Wink Wink
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tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"

in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
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