Speedo Reconditioning

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Is it possible to recondition a speedo?
The one on the wagon died on the way back from Vic, full of metal shavings and the needle goes crazy at any speed and screeches non-stop.
The replacement I put in is good to 55-60mph, then the needle goes crazy and a screeching noise can be heard.

[earlyholdenfan]

Stinky, there is a mob in Brisbane that recond the mechanical workings of speedo's
they are called
"car and truck Instruments" they rebuilt the one out of the FJ when it had the same hissy fit! and cost me bugger all to do!
Might be worthwhile tracking down their number and calling them, all I can remember is they are at Fortitude Valley in a pokey little side street
Cheers
Matt

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Thanks Matt, we have the same sort of mob here, Gaugeworks, I might drop by tomorrow.

[craiga]

The speedo's are a VERY simple device, and more than likely the problem is that the main shaft bearing is just dry. You need to carefully prise away the edge of the trim ring that holds the front of the speedo and lift off the dial and trim ring together. This will give you access inside the speedo. Carefully clean the insides using a VERY soft airflow being careful not to distort or damage the flat spring in any way. Now clean and lube the shaft and bearing using a light hit of WD-40 or similar. A drop of light oil on the bearing would also be adviseable.

Now refit the trim ring and dial, pressing down the previously lifted edge of the trim ring.

You should also make the effort to remove you speedo cable assy, pull out the centre cable from the outer sheath and clean and lube the thing using a light oil. You'll be amazed how steady the speedo will be at the end of this exercise.
All fixed!!

Cheers,

Craig.

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Thanks Craig, I beat you to it with the speedo and found out why it was spinning erratically, the return spring is cactus. The needle has also been boucing on the face and has damaged the paint, plus there are metal shavings all through the device. The spare I have looks OK, I guess your advice on the clean and oil should stop the bouncing at 55-60mph.

I was wondering about the speedo cable though, thanks for the tip. Another job on Saturday, hopefully I'll still make it to the club run on Sunday.

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

In a fit of madness I went out to the garage, all cleaned up and tested. Not a hesitation until about 90-100mph, not that the car will be going that fast!  ::)

[fcstationsedan]

I didn't think it would go that fast!!!! Will try to post the wheel today!

[RET]

Not for very long, anyway.  Ask Tailshaft Tim...



;D ;D

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Heh, heh, heh..... I knew you guys would take the bait. I hooked up the ol' electric drill to the speedo and wound it out that way  ;D

[Al]

 Stinky, don't use oil in speedo cable unless you want oil all over your feet and inside the speedo head. The best thing to use is either white grease or thin normal grease it will stick to the cable like sh#$$t to a blanket and last longer. Pull inner cable all the way out,clean it up then dip the end of the cable in the grease and slip it into the housing, twist the cable as its going in and every few feet dab a little bit of grease on cable. It's a bit messy but it works a treat. Good luck with it .

    Cheers Al

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Thanks Al, just walked in from the garage to check the board, looks like the cable is coming out again tomorrow, DOW!
and to make things a little more interesting, the bloody indicators have stopped working now.

[craiga]

Woops, good point Al.

Confucious say - always listen to the bloke with the grey hair  ;)

Cheers,

Craig.

[Al]

    

    And don't you forget it    KACA

   Al
  
    ps Sorry for calling you a KACA Craig!!!!!

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

KACA??  ???

Anyway, all fixed and so far there is no oil on my feet.
I blew the oil through with compressed air first then loaded up with grease.

The indicators, which worked fine on the way home from VIC, ended up being corrosion in the fuse. The movement I made getting the dash out was enough to break the connection. Cleaned up all the bits and the indicators are back in action.