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Paint stripping

Started by ubeuty, February 08, 2011, 06:43:46 PM

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ubeuty

I couldn't find the info in here somewhere that talked about best and cheapest way to strip the paint off my panelvan, can anyone help?

Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius

Best or Cheapest, I think they are mutually exclusive  ;D

KFH

I have just about finished stripping my car in preparation for painting.  Firstly on the front guards I used a paint stripper that spray painters use.  It was relatively slow and due to the thickness of the paint and had to use a second coat.  For the rest of the car I used the blue paint stripper discs on a right angle grinder. These are available from hardware stores and work well.  You need to be careful not to overheat the metal otherwise distortion will occur.  In tight corners a wire buff on the grinder helps and in a few places paint stripper.  Be prepared to sacrifice a grinder if it is a low wattage grinder as the discs and wire buff are tough on the grinders.  Get the cheapest with the longest warranty.  I had a 500 watt $19 job but it didn't last the race and was replaced under warranty with an Ozito 850 watt, 3 year warranty, from Bunnies. It does not get hot. Even my 750 watt Hitachia is now showing signs of stress after many a good workout.

Keith
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left

FCRB26

bite the bullet get it soda blasted even sand blasting mobs can use soda dry not wet like most

get rid of all the impuritys do it right the first time.

fe350chev

hey, can u explain how they actually soda blast or is there a website with pics etc?
Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck

CraigA

Google is your friend  ;D

www.sodablast.com.au

My brothers paint shop now recommend a soda strip on all cars in for restoration. Not as destructive as sand and great results.

FCRB26

its just bi carb soda you can leave windows in and chrome on and it will not damage it in any way you would want to take it out but .

puckeye

Hi. Strongly suggest bead blast if you go that way, soda has some inherant residue problems. The back yard job is best as described as before, if you do use paint stripper on thick paint put glad wrap over the stripper and leave it for as long as you like (within reason) it lets the stripper penetrate without drying out, then use 36/40 grit on your sander/angle grinder. Good luck. Cheers ,Peter.

Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius

Quote from: puckeye on February 19, 2011, 08:45:26 AM
Hi. Strongly suggest bead blast if you go that way, soda has some inherant residue problems.

Please elaborate, I have heard all these stories about "problems" but no-one can ever explain what the "problems" are and you usually get a "this bloke who does sand-blasting says" response.

FCRB26

My dad  got his 43 willys army jeep done ten years ago still looks good no paint problems
we also have done his T tudor which has been in undercoat for at least 8 years no bubbles or marks .
and his A model pick up has been done and in undercoat for 12 months nothing wrong with that.

So i would like to know what is wrong with it ??????????

Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius

Quote from: fchoon on February 19, 2011, 07:55:24 PM
So i would like to know what is wrong with it ??????????

It's doing the sand-blasters out of work  :-X

fe350chev

perhaps i could ship it to india and get it done there and still be in front.
Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck

puckeye

Soda finds it's way into the smallest of gaps, being so fine ,it is hygroscopic and becomes corrosive. very early bodies were not spot welded (pinch welds) thus no hiding place to grow. it was mentioned that "I have heard many stories", I'm a believer of where there is smoke there is fire and I have seen the residue growing between inner and outer sills on a job done for me..... I can only give my personal experience. Cheers ,  Peter.